The Chevy Volt batteries are tough to rearrange as you are suggesting, I would need to cut the series connection as seen in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot3IhsUfFS8&ab_channel=DavidPoz

I want to avoid dissembling this pack any more than I have to. My original plan was to use the (3 ...

I'm going to attempt to fully charge both packs to match at the mV level before connecting for the first time.


I also have two packs but I decided to make it one pack by rewiring cells into 2P configuration. Even ORION themselves advise against parallel strings - packs wired in parallel. If ...

Those are contactors, not caps, and the ( ) are the contact coils. This is how I'm used to seeing contactors depicted in controls diagrams.

Is this what you're talking about?

I'm going to attempt to fully charge both packs to match at the mV level before connecting for the first time.

It's been awhile since my last post, and I'm finally settling into the new place (please excuse the disarray, not all the way settled in) . Since then, I've added some fun new parts to my build:

(2) parallel Gen 2 Chevy Volt packs I plan to run in parallel
(2) OEM 3.3kW Chargers
OEM DC/DC
C5 Z06 ...

Got her going in single mode for now:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eVJx-a ... sp=sharing

Still going to focus on getting the second channel running!

So something wrong with channel B. Can you check the crimp for that channel and for a short on the logic board chan B to ground?


I agree.

4 pin is OEM and crimp looks good.

I'm getting continuity between a quick connect on the wire harness side of 23 pin ampseal connector (originally used ...

muehlpower wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 9:42 am i have noticed that the pyrofuse is triggered when the HV control unit is unplugged. Mine was working when I got my battery pack. After removing it, it was broken. I suppose you have to unplug the fuse first!

I'll have to try it out, thanks for the heads up! What pack are you using?

I decided to go with a model 3 pyro disconnect to get precision overcurrent protection. I received it in the mail, but during the initial inspection I noticed an orange light showing through the casing:

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/799776606494523402/804903136824655922/20210129_183231 ...

So check which one is high, then turn the motor a bit until the other one is high.


I powered the motor/controller in normal operation, encoder A had shown ~5V and B had shown around ~20mV. I then rotated the motor by hand, A dropped down to <200mV while B went a little over 100mV. When stopped ...

I checked continuity from R21 to the ampseal 23 pin connector pin, and it rang out. So, I checked between the ampseal 23 pin connector pin to the encoder, and that rang out. So, I know at this point there is a solid connection from the MCU to the encoder, voltage is getting to the board edge ...

Thank you for the info guys. I've switched encoder signal A & B, but the unit spins same as before when the encoder was removed and ran. After switching back to the original A/B wiring, I was able to see signal A fluctuate around 2.5V, while signal B showed < 200mV (so ~0V) while at full throttle ...

After some troubleshooting with Johannes, the issue was found to be a cold solder joint on a couple of the pins of the IGBT driver connector. This was found by checking for ~5V on the six fault pins found on IC10 (IC3 on V3 schem and V3 PCB pdf). A quick reflow of solder on these pins and the motor ...

I guess I shouldn't say pinout lol, but more so the "pinin" at the board side connector.

Duh, they correspond to the order of the pins on the board , maybe it's time for another coffee...

Howdy everyone,

A couple of nights ago, I installed the community logic board into my LDU and did a forward/reverse function check on a regulated power supply. I was able to confirm forward and reverse by increasing the current, giving me VERY little incremental movement (set to 40V but dropped due ...

I got some toys in the mail today, and I thought would be worth testing to better understand the operability (also so I know the components are in working condition) :

Contactors

I picked up two sets of GV200 contactors (GV200-004-D, couldn't explicitly locate this part code but it's still the ...

Would that be something to keep the original speedometer?
https://www.speedhut.com/Speedbox.html


That's pretty cool, but expensive. I keep leaning back to mounting a small tablet, and displaying through the existing holes... Either way I've got some time to think about it before I get to that ...

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Wed Jan 27, 2021 3:50 pm I do best learning as I go.

I'm with you on that.

I've been looking at some of the CAN options from Speedhut and Autometer, not sure which way I'm going yet.


Thanks for the leads. I saw this guy print out his own gauge faces, I may take another DIY project on and just custom make my own using what I've got.

CAN is new territory, but I see ...

Gotcha, I wanted to replace the old ones with some custom gauges, but the shop I was talking to doesn't want to play ball. I may just find a display, run it with raspberry pi (or something) and hide it where the cluster lives to keep as "original" looking as possible. Maybe try to show RPM, current ...

Thanks Mangelsdorf, I'm looking forward to the arrival of my logic board so I can get to playing!

How are you approaching your instrument cluster?

Thanks Fire! The frame seems to be straight by the way the doors, trunk, and "frunk" close, but I won't know until I remove the ICE systems and get further into it. The driver rear is lower than the rest of the car so that shock must be bad, but I'm going to upgrade the set anyway, possibly doubling ...

Hello everyone,

I'm still pretty new here (bare with me) and working on my first EV build using a 1965 Corvair Monza as a donor:

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/562449180656795669/806528384879951902/phase_zero__1.jpg?width=917&height=917
Originally, I was going to attempt a conversion ...