So I was continuing to do some testing (topped up the oil) and the noise was still there. So I turned off regen for now to keep testing other aspects. Slowing down is fine without it, both in coasting and braking.

But unfortunately, I almost blew another resistor. After a 5 minute spin, it was ...

So I swapped in a 100W 40ohm resistor, but found the original params file I was using before. After I kept thinking about it, I realized that the car started blowing pre-charge resistors after I updated the parameters. So I uploaded the original params file and it started working without blowing ...

Thanks. That would make more sense…. So next step for me is to disconnect the DC-DC and see if it helps pre-charge. Will let you all know what happens.

Wow. 0.5ohm 100W is 14amps peak vs 1.8amps for the one I was using (100W, 30ohm).

What is your HV battery voltage? Not sure how much of an impact the DC-DC on the same curcuit would affect things but I’ll try changing the resistor to what you’re using if it doesn’t.

Thank you! The devices I have connected are:
- DC-DC converter (Tesla)
- Cabin Heater (but connected via contractor triggered by HVAC system and not on)
- LDU
- AC (Tesla, but not connected currently)
- OBC (Tesla Gen 2) - 12V disconnected for now when I’m not charging the battery to help diagnose ...

So I finally did some more diag and found that my 100W 50ohm precharge resistor was blown. This was after many, many starts. I initially replaced with 100W 100ohm resistors and realized I was going the wrong way as they blew as soon as I turned the system on (again never got out of precharge).
I ...

Battery voltage is currently about 375V. I hear the precharge contactor going on when i put the key in, then turning off after a few seconds. During this time, i give the start signal which nornally turns on the main contactor but after the parameters upload, it doesn't close and i get the readout ...

So I was fiddling with parameters and seemed to be making good progress on throttle tip-in, but only when applying throttle gradually. But I realized I was using a different set of parameters from the ones I attached in my first post in this thread. The ones I posted were from Boxster EV who's been ...

Final comment to put this one to bed:
I didn't add a 2nd coolant pump. Had the car on the road this morning above 60 km/hr and the heatsink temp stayed flat at around 21 deg C. So my coolant flow diagram was still:
Pump ->motor ->batteries -> charger/DC-DC ->radiators (3) ->Pump on a 35 L/min ...

Sorry for the delayed response. Life gets in the way with general busyness. So I had a chance to some more digging on the issue. I started by testing the coolant pump in the car by pulling off the coolant exit hose to see if coolant was coming out and it did, but slowly. I checked for blockages in ...

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Had you selected a direction, or was it just sitting there in "neutral"?

The power was on (pre-charge complete, main contractors on) and the direction was forward. When just 12V connected to the inverter without the HV power turned on, the HS temps went back down slowly.

So I’m assuming ...

Hi Guys,
Sorry I was on vacation for a few weeks in the south of Spain. It's a tough life I know.

Back to the build...
I re-routed the expansion tank to feed just at the input of the pump. It's a Davies-Craig 35L/min pump, same one that Paul used on his BoxsterEV build. I first wanted to rule out ...

Thanks. Good to hear this is not normal behaviour or I wouldn't be able to go above 20mph!
Here's my setup:
Using factor Porsche radiators (two sides and one centre), a 35 Lpm pump. The pump (from the sound at least) is running consistently.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw ...

So I tried to purge the coolant lines and think I did a reasonable job but not totally sure.
I took the car for another run and got it up to ~20mph a few times and plotted the rotor and heatsink temps. Does the following look normal? The HS temp is closely following the throttle inputs. Not sure if ...

Thanks! I’ll give it a shot tonight.
Love your Yoitube channel btw..

So. I recalibrated the throttle and adjusted fslipmin as per the starting guide first and also adjusted a few other settings. It seemed to make an improvement and the inverter wasn't shutting off during breaking. Starting off felt a bit better too.

So I drove for a few more minutes and the power ...

Also, forgot to ask.... Since it was probably six months since I last tried to fire up the motor (before I got it going to take it on it's first test drive), it looks like the inverter lost all the settings and resorted back to defaults so it wouldn't work at all. I had to re-upload my params file ...

Awesome. Thanks for the quick response! I did calibrate the throttle but it was probably 6 months ago so I'll double check it again.
Will follow your advice and report back.

Thanks again!

Hi All,
After 2 1/2 years of having the cayman sitting in the garage on blocks 3 ft in the air, I finally was able to button everything down enough to take it out for it's maiden test drive. I only went around the block, but generally everything seemed to hold together.
Here's my setup:
Porsche ...

Progress!
So I finally was able to get the charger to charge the battery with the BMS!!

I noticed and confirmed the following things (with the help from Reider at VeroBMS):
1. When the EVSE is plugged in, it triggers A1 to go to ground (more or less, more on this later).
2. The BMS logic waits ...

Thanks Tom (again).
So I did follow up with Reider and he confirmed (at least for the Vero BMS) that in order to do CAN control, it requires hardware v 2.3 and unfortunately I have v2.2.

But he did confirm that I should use A1 from the Tesla OBC and use the relay as you originally suggested. I went ...

I want to ensure I understand this completely:
The OBC pin A6 - AC present is an output signal that shows “GND” when it wants to charge?

So feeding this signal through a relay before it goes to the SimpBMS J5 pin 6 to turn it to 12V positive is what you’re saying it needs?


I'm now trying to ...

Sorry Tom,
I thought I did change Timedly to "0" before my last post, but when I went to get the params and spot values, I double checked and realized it was still set at 10000. I reset it to "0" and then tried it again with the direct connections and "boom".... the 3 modules lit up and it started ...

Sorry, I meant Pin A1 from the OBC is the AC present output.

I've tried the above without connecting A1 from the OBC as I'm right now just trying to get the charger to turn on without connecting it to the BMS. So I think I'm back to the same problem I had before:
12V connected to A3 and B1,
CP ...

I want to ensure I understand this completely:
The OBC pin A6 - AC present is an output signal that shows “GND” when it wants to charge?

So feeding this signal through a relay before it goes to the SimpBMS J5 pin 6 to turn it to 12V positive is what you’re saying it needs?