Thanks for all the responses. I've now purchased a 1,000 lbs hydraulic cart that I can use in the garage to lower the motor and the cradle onto and then lift the car up to be able to get to the motor and pop that sucker open to see what's going on with the inverter.

Besides validating the power is ...

Unfortunately it’s going to be a lot of effort to get to the encoder. The shop that built the harness for the motor has it tucked in (see photo).

I’ll try playing around with the wiring a bit more.

Thanks both. I did read the other thread previously and power to the board seems good.

I have to say that I am a bit confused in terms of how to validate the version the firmware is. Is there something through the UI that exposes this?

Hi,

Finally after 3 years of my car being in the body shop and having the Tesla LDU fitted into the back of the small 911 rear, I am ready to get moving on getting the car in motion!

Using a board that Damien built about 4 years ago, I have managed to connect up the inverter to a good 12v source ...

@Boxster EV - although not noted in the diagrams, I'm assuming I need to run the pre-charge resistor loop through a fuse. Is that how you wired yours up and, if so, what size fuse did you go for?

OK, lots of progress today as I'm back from travel for work.

Made 6x busbars to link up the 1st battery pack (don't actually need 6 for one pack, but needed extra for the second pack later). On top of that I made a prototype HV component box setup using some wood as a base for now. I'm only ...

Nice! I picked one up too. Ironically shipping products from the UK to Texas was faster than items from California.

The other thing I'm debating is where to put the 400A fuse. I see it sometimes put in between the + battery leads and then the + contactor in the HV box and sometimes it is inserted ...

@Boxster EV - That makes complete sense. I'll size things out accordingly and had a good time making copper bus bars yesterday.

Question for you: I noticed in your build for the pre-charge contactor, it looks like you are using the Zero EV 50A / 750V contactor. Is that correct?

Thanks! I’ve ordered a similar box that will hopefully arrive today.

Another thing I’ve been researching is the wiring sizes inside the HV box. Right now I have 2/0 AWG (70mm2) to run the longer lengths from the battery packs, however for the short runs from component to component (e.g. contactor ...

OK, here's another basic question about designing a HV box:

What material board do you use to mount your components on inside the sealed box?

Thanks - I managed to find a 100w 50 ohms one on Amazon so we'll see how that does.

On the 50A contactor, rather than order the one from ZeroEV, here in the US it looks like I might be able to buy the Gigavac P115 Mini-Tactor. (version BDA specifically)

@Boxster EV - I was looking through your build thread and it looks like you are using 2 x 100w 30 ohms precharge resistors rather than a single 100w 50 ohms as what was in Damien’s original documentation. Is that right?

@Isaac96 - when you noted having another 2 contractors for safety, are we ...

@Isaac96 - you are completely right, I made a mistake on labelling the diagram. I have 12 LG Chem batteries in total and was intending to go with 1P6S in both front and back. I'll have a think about the 2P3S setup.

On the cable front, I'm not sure how I can avoid running a longer cable from the ...

@ev_builder

It's 16s in a pack as I'm using LG Chem batteries (see here: https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=4&products_id=481 . Due to the shape and size of these batteries and taking into account the space restrictions of the frunk and engine bay of an old 911, this is a common ...

Hi,

After having purchased a V2 Tesla LDU board from Damien years ago and after waiting for bodywork on my 1980 911 to be complete during COVID, I'm finally getting back to planning my EV conversion!

Specifically, I'd like to get some feedback from the board members and input on the way I'm ...

OK so it sounds like it's time for me to purchase the contactors and precharge relays.

Again, apologies for these basic questions but I'm not an electrical engineer and learning along the way here.

Thanks Damien - so as I have a single flip switch to set the system on/off I'll wire the start signal into that.

Regarding the contactor, for testing purposes, are you saying I can simply connect pin 3 & 6 to the 12v supply for now?

And more progress - I have the encoder wired up, a rotary switch that sets forward / reverse and I managed to get the Tesla accelerator pedal working like a charm. You can see the mess I'm making further below.

Now then - the low voltage test..

Currently don't have any batteries lined up nor do ...

Hold the press! I think I just figured it out..

Pin 1 = Signal
Pin 2 = Ground
Pin 3 = +5v

Let me know if that sounds right, Damien. Using the chart plotting it seems to respond and I was able to determine a min and max POT.

OK, lots of good progress tonight. Managed to get the harness in a good state so that I can continue testing. I also received my BMW pedal in the mail (specifically part # 3540 6762480-02). Only thing I'm struggling with now is to figure out the pin order for the connector there. It's a 6 pin ...

I'll avoid admitting that I'd already printed all the diagrams and had been staring at the them for hours before asking the questions above :-D

Still, managed to get the unit to talk to me and am looking at the web interface again so I'm happy.

One important note, Damien, in the throttle ...

OK, let me ask another complete newb question - for the encoder and the accelerator which require 5V, am I good using a step down module (such as https://www.amazon.com/Step-Down-Waterproof-Miniature-Envistia-Mall/dp/B07MYPCM73/ref=asc_df_B07MYPCM73/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309809835998 ...

Thanks - just wanted to make sure pin 11 didn't need to come into play at this stage.

New forum member here and learning a lot about electrical engineering, slowly working my way to getting the motor bench testable. I've installed the board inside the motor but wanted to understand what the minimum pin hook-ups are in order for me to power up the board and be able to access the web ...

Hi,

Quick intro - I'm one of Damien's customers who is on a journey to convert a 1980 Porsche 911 into a Porschla ;) . I'm using a Model S 85 motor acquired from eBay (part number for the motor is 1025276-00-Q). Right now the car body is still buying repaired and hence I'm using the time to prep ...