The dvla gave me a direct line to the kit and conversions office who wrote to me requesting the fresh mot. Once the mot passes, I call them up and they straighten everything out on the system to make it all ties up as electric.


And does it retain its 'classic' status and remain MOT exempt after ...

No knowledge re: classics but I suspect they'll want an MOT anyway as it makes them feel better re: safety. There's an interesting angle for classics where they can retain their historical status if the engine/drivetrain change is for "environmental" reasons. I presume this is done automatically on ...

PEDR0 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 15, 2025 10:53 am would a 530e battery pack be good enough to get me up and running,

Yes and for a mini will probably get you about 50-60 miles relatively comfortably.

I agree with Tom, as a serial over complicator myself I've talked myself out of multiple battery boxes and may well just end up getting an OEM pack and mounting the whole thing. Battery boxes are probably the most complicated part of a conversion and also the highest risk, keeping them simple is key ...

You could (as advised to me by Tom91), use the simpBMS class on zombie and map the required information from the Flying ADC BMS to those IDs.

Thanks for all the work Johu

I've got one I may sell as my charging plans have changed now

Great news and good update on their... "process".

Zombieverter for the vcu. You'll need a battery or other power source, contractors (at least 1 but 2 best), a shunt or sbox or something else to control precharge, an accelerator pedal, relay to turn on the inverter from the zombie and a few 12V switches for T15/start etc.
If you look at the wiki ...

On the above. I bought some capacitors to perform the patch but have ended up with way too many due to an order error. If anyone wants some in the UK let me know.

PEDR0 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 05, 2025 12:14 pm So we’re all in on the outlander
Rear motor, inverter, charger purchased.

Glad you bought the outlander motor I linked. I was getting the desire to buy it and I have no need for it!

Bigpie wrote: ↑Sat Jul 05, 2025 7:49 pm need to badly edit it together

Ever the perfectionist.

Give us V2L!

The zombieverter can control the outlander over CAN for 70kw, others here (Romale I think) have done an OI board swap for up to 110kw I think.

https://ebay.us/m/WiVxF0 if you're UK based then here's a cheap rear outlander motor.

Charger https://ebay.us/m/XmL2i6

And there's inverters going for around d £40-50 although might need to be checked for compatibility with zombieverter depending on year. Not sure if they're all compatible.

The leaf charger is massive and there are better options. The leaf "stack" can be separated into its individual components, but then you need to mess around with rerouting the HV connections.

Apologies I didnt realise that this part is an MQB rack also,
This is my efforts to understanding the rack.
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6153
I'm fairly certain to get speed assist my rack (from a VW Transporter T6.1) only required ESP_21 to be played back which contained the ...

You'd be best sourcing a canlog from a vehicle that uses this rack or at least one using the same platform. Then reduce the messages down until you loose speed level assist to work out what can messages are required.

There is some information on on the can comms from the BMS on the open dbc I think.

The MG batteries are very cheap on ebay atm and plentiful.

johu wrote: ↑Thu Jun 26, 2025 8:07 pm Yeah it's outrageous how much they've come down! If you buy a palette of 36 it drops towards 50€.

Crikey! Now just to find a place for 36 panels....

400w panels for 60eur each is cheap, in the UK I think they're going for around £65 each new which is amazing. They're almost cheaper than fence panels... and much more productive!

I would not rely on aluminium tape for any automotive use tbh, my experience with it is not great and the adhesive that it uses not reliable. How about a proper air tightness tape? Or some vapour variable membrane, it closes up as humidity rises. Something like Pro Clima Intello or similar.

I'll let others comment on the safety, but if you do this I'd be interested in a similar setup if you're happy to sell one on? Thanks

My thoughts on the safety is it's probably fine. Provided you get good connection. The bolt will pull everything tight, so provided the faces are clean you should ...

What is the resistance between CAN H and CAN L? Is there anything else on the CAN circuit?

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 17, 2025 6:41 am Where you getting this info from? I do not believe this to be the case.

I vaguely remember one of Damiens videos on the stack mentioning something along the lines of this. May well be legacy information.