This is the 2021 version https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/9714435 Indeed -thanks for the link! This is CHAdeMO 2.0.1 specification - with 200/400A, 1000V and V2X (V2G/V2H), I must add these features to my CHAdeMO controller for vehicle. 200A could be achieved by just increasing the limit from ...

CHAdeMO specification is now an IEEE standard:
https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/7400449
You can buy it, or maybe your school/employer has access to it. All the HW and SW details are there.

I am thinking of taking VCU board 60R resistor out and extending chademo twisted pair. Then i qould fit one 60R resistor into the end connector. CAN should be terminated by one 120 ohm resistor on each end - not the 60 ohm. One is in the CHAdeMO station, the second should be on the CHAdeMO ...

If you would move the current sensor in the main battery to the wire between contactors and junction point of the batteries then current flowing between batteries won't be measured and won't cause any problem to the car.

This sounds like you are connected in front of contactors. So you really need to disconnect both lines. Correct - I didn't want to touch Ampera's battery.


My plan is to connect behind hv contactors and use only one aux contactor with diode across it so i can charge using original charger ...

>> Yesterday i found some spare time and i set our Ampera up to replace plastic trunk bottom with alu plate.
Wow, impressive work!

>> There is also a 12V aux battery to consider.
I needed to disconnect it few times so far, no big problem, except the last time - when I got trunk full of ceramic ...

I have basically copied Ampera's HV relay module in the trunk - for additional battery, and I did a mistake in wiring of one of the relay control signals (for AC charger), that relay was not needed at that time, but probably caused some glitches.


Hi

Where do you tap into start signal for aux ...

You mention you corrected relay signal conditions. What do you mean by that, main battery relay or the additional battery relay? And what is your protocol for correction please. I have basically copied Ampera's HV relay module in the trunk - for additional battery, and I did a mistake in wiring of ...

About P1E00 with P1EBC - seem to be gone since I corrected relay signal connections. For now zero errors from the car, that was the biggest unknown for that battery extension.

Next test - 110km/h, range about 120km. I drowned the battery beyond limit (using MyVoltHold) and got 10,8kWh from the main battery and 13,2kWh from additional one. Before the test charged slowly from AC to about 4,07V/cell, during the test disccharged to 3,53V/cell. Then 125A from CHAdeMO to 80 ...

Today test - 75km/h, 155km and 19km left was estimated by car. Veeeeery nice for me

On Monday I got connected 16kWh in the trunk to main battery, so far so good, occasionally I'm seeing P1E00 with P1EBC, something with controlling relay coil. MyGreenVolt reports power/current of main battery, power divides more or less in half between batteries, depending on SOC. AC charging works ...

>> Not entirely sure why :?
A saw such implementation/documentation, but it's wrong, maybe untested.

>> Trying to see if I can make it work on all 10 cell's and 12 modules next will be the challenge
Checked 10 cells (removed some copper trace on the CMU before - after blowing a fuse) and it didn't ...

It was AliExpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3286250 ... 4c4dg8jsK7

arber333 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 25, 2020 2:46 pm Also my friend just got Mitsubishi Outlander pack 13kWh 96S

All Outlander packs (12 and 13kWh) are 80S, not 96S.

xp677 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 14, 2020 1:48 pm Fuses are 72V, T1A, 1206 package. They didn't look easy to obtain in the UK, however 63V ones are plentiful.

I found them on eBay.

0x49 = 73 = 50+23
When you subtract 50 from the reading you get the temperature, not sure why SimpBMS got different result (21). For LEV46 you need to subtract 70, for LEV40 50. It's not easy to cool or warm entire module, but when you get the temperature sensor off the cell bolt it is much easier ...

Any other news?

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 6:31 amI'm still not having any joy programming the 328 via the ICSP header. @PatrykS did you say you had it working with USBasp and this board?

No, I used USBasp with another AVR boards (Arduino between others).

Isaac96 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 07, 2020 7:06 pm Buck charging is a possibility. Official spec requires operation down to 125v, and iirc Damien charged a 144v pack a while back? It seems to depend on the charger.

Official CHAdeMO specification mandates 50V as a minimum, and I tested charging of ~60V battery on Efacec charger.

Question about flashing the bootloader on the Atmega328P. Just hooked up an Arduino Uno to the board via the ICSP pins and tried burning a bootloader but got an error of 'Invalid Device Signature'.

Do I need to add a specific board profile or should the Nano/Duemilanove board setting (ones with a ...

Good shout @PatrykS - it is indeed 16MHz in software and 8MHz crystal. Will tweak and test again.

Weird that it worked fine in the test with the same error though.
When error is the same in Arduino and ESP they communicate well with each other, but with half the speed - 250kbps. Problem arises ...

Question on CANbus communication: looks like the termination resistor is on the board from the schematic. It doesn't need anything additional does it?

I have communication working between an Arduino and an ESP8266, both with MCP2515s. But when I disconnect one and hook it up to the inverter I ...

>> Hm... in 2 weeks i think i will be on my way to TUV sud in Munich to make my TUV there. Maybe on your way back?
Hard to say if we will stop there - 2 day journey to Croatia for family vacation and 2 day back usually make us a little hurry, we're from north of Poland :-)

>> I didnt mean to strip ...

>> I suggest you strip the plastic and bottom mat so you can access primary structure. Maybe you will get an idea how to fasten the remaining brick in place.
I know that structure and when you strip the metal plates there is just tiny plastic box with cells, so it's best to keep the metal plates ...