Mojave wrote: ↑Mon Jul 26, 2021 10:44 pm In one of your youtube videos the dash showed over 1800A when you went WOT, is that correct?

Yeah my dash is not accurate on the ammeter... I need to adjust the PID equation coming from the Orion BMS to the torque app.

You say you only regenerate when the brake is applied. When it failed, you didn't brake, right. Could it be that the voltage in the inverter rises to a value that is sufficient to destroy the ITGBs because nothing is diverted into the battery?


I did a full throttle acceleration for a few ...

I'm not very familiar with the fuse system from the tesla S. The model 3 has only one fuse, the model S apparently has a pyrofuse and a normal fuse. I think the pyrofuse is normally only triggered in the event of a crash. There are fuses on the internet for the Model S with 450A, 550A and 630A ...

jon volk wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 4:22 pm Holy shit. That certainly looks like enough to blow a pyro fuse.

So going forward, I would like to prevent this from happening.

Hopefully I can pinpoint the failure.

tom91 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 11:54 am
If a LDU is spinning when the fuse blows or contactor drops out there is a large chance of irreversible damage.

That looks to be the case...

I think using a used Tesla pyro fuse was a bad idea. It blew at a strange time for not having any indication of a short.

jon volk wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 3:32 pm Photos not working for anyone else?

It's probably me...Let me see if I can figure out a better way to attach them.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sat Jul 24, 2021 6:47 am How are your contactors controlled?

Ignition on powers the pre-charge contactor, and then the DU closes the main contactor with start switch input. The BMS can shut down the ignition/DU power and contactor but it would be a total car shut down which did not happen in this case.

Found the smoke.

I have probably 1000 miles on the car with lots of hard acceleration. Not sure what would cause the Tesla pyro fuse to blow, it was power off regen at the time, battery cells were about 4.05 max.

Here is a picture of the inverter, the bottom phase took hit. Do you guys think this ...

muehlpower wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:31 pm What happens if udcmax exceeds the set 410V during recuperation? Does the controller disconnect the maincontactor?

Not quite sure

Curious to hear what you find. I would doubt a blown igbt alone can pull enough current to blow the pyro fuse. I would think it requires a direct short somewhere.


I am curious as well, No indication of any short right now, all high voltage components run normal except when selecting fwd/rev ...

Funny you mention that, I just went out today to watch the temps after Chris from Zero mentioned motor temp.

DU temps started at 28C, didn't get further than that...

I did one Brake on full throttle launch with the attached settings, The car had good traction, and pulled hard all the way to 50 or ...

Ok, I'll try the IDC change.

Not really sure how to describe the power cut, it's like I lift and floor it and lift and floor it.

I'll try to log some of the parameters.

Thanks for your input!

Thanks for the reply Jon, great question...I should have included this.

I am happy with the slow speed manners, very smooth, no jerkyness.

Regen using just brake switch is great, fits my drive style.

"Launch Control" Holding brake and full throttle is good initially but then cuts and powers and ...

Hello, I am looking for some advice from the experts, beyond the already terrific information on this forum.

I have a newly running build and I am feeling my way through the settings. My dyno guy from my Turbo builds has offered me a free dyno day so we can learn the Inverter tuning.

I would like ...

One year since last update, and it drives!

Full Tesla 100kWh battery pack assembled into three separate boxes. I have a battery fault in the Orion BMS and feels like it is in limp mode. I am looking for two replacement 100kWh modules if anyone has any leads, please let me know!

PXL_20210507 ...

Making progress, I have a working rear suspension now! Using the Model S subclip left no room for springs so I made a Pushrod Setup.

The hubs can't be easily redrilled to another pattern so I'm making a tool which will pilot over the stud and cuts the Chevy lugnut seat to the metric PCD, kind of like a valve seat cutter. There are 'wobble nuts" available which fix this issue but I cant find them in 14mm. Also make sure you can ...

Damn that fits really nicely


Yeah it does, better than I hoped.


What wheels are you going to fit? The choices are somewhat limited by the metric lug pattern but it does appear acceptable to modify Chevy pattern to metric by shifting the conical faces by 0.3mm. Also it looks like there isn't ...

Thanks for the input, I think I fixed the pictures.

I am currently underway with my Tesla Swap. Thanks for all of the knowledge passed along so far, I hope I can add to it eventually.

Large Sport Drive Unit and subclip with 100kWh Tesla Battery Pack.




IMG_20200221_171001_1.png

IMG_20200220_200511_1.png

IMG_20200221_220520_01_1.png

IMG ...

I like what you are thinking...I have been trying to figure out the best way to handle this as well. Thinking about trying a one touch power window module. Not sure what amperage the cutoff is set at.

https://ebay.us/C72yko