Even 6000rpm in an ICE gives only 50Hz (assuming one chance to change torque per cycle, and that the ECU isn't dosing fuel and spark per piston). Plus all the rotational inertia of the drivetrain. How quickly can the wheels accelerate?

udcnom is the voltage for which the other parameters are set - some parameters are automatically adjusted based on battery voltage.

This perhaps suggests you need to set udcnom to your actual pack voltage and re-tune the other parameters?

That'll do just fine. A larger value resistor will give a slower precharge, that's all

It's really just for first-plug-in-hope-I-haven't-got-any-wires-crossed testing A lightbulb would be fine (and gives a good 'readout' of current passing), then remove it when you start spinning the motor at any speed.

Bare in mind this is really not all that different to the more comment -ve case....

Heatshrink is pretty good so long as handled carefully during assembly. Once the pack is together, the main risk of damage is due to vibration/fretting. Gluing the cells together guards against this (plenty of other ...

PRuslan wrote: ↑Thu Feb 02, 2023 8:33 pm I tried without FW,because the speed suits me, vnom = 87.12v-> 65hz-> 65kmh. At 0, - 40 and - 95, butthe current consumption has not changed

Ah, in that case, I'd go with smaller sprocket and enable field weakening

Strange that the magnitude of id is larger than iq? (I think? Maybe not)

If your battery is limiting things, udc will drop as you increase current demand (resistive losses in the pack and wiring).

It may be that the (relatively) low udc combined with a relatively high inductance motor just doesn't ...

Square waves are fun Who needs a nice smooth sine?

No examples (yet) that I know of I'm afraid. You're basically varying the PWM on the boost converter to regulate voltage (current) into the battery - you'll need to monitor pack voltage, current and probably temperature too. A reasonable charging curve would be constant current up to your target ...

Prius inverter boost converter + 3-phase rectifier? Plus some micro to control the boost converter PWM.

'New posts' is just posts that've been made since your last 'visit' (usually, a session, I think)

"Can't understand code", "can't do forums", yet will happily chop out safety related sections of the firmware... I don't suspect we'll get any response until something goes pop

Ah, good to know! Perhaps some residual magnetism, or a funky HV design. Or perhaps I'm just too used to Toyota inverters

Imho...

It depends on your definition of 'safe'.

Opening the contactors while moving will kill the inverter. But could protect the battery from overvoltage/overcurrent/etc. So allowing the BMS to open the contactors will likely kill your inverter in the event of a problem, but may better protect ...

I would assume the OEMs do the full parametisation to get that last few %% efficiency, but my humble suggestion would be that this is perhaps out-of-scope for the current firmware. Or rather, a huge amount of work to implement what will probably end up being a large lookup table (different motors ...

So the button can delete prefs, set a "don't save" flag, restart the program, optimise the inverter settings for performance, efficiency and making a cool noise, implementing world peace...

Great news about your new app!

A 'rolling median' might be more immune to those drops. But yeah, finding the true cause is probably a better fix!

'kin awesome

I 'upgraded' (deleted IPMMotorSim directory, and redownloaded from git) from one of the earlier versions to latest, but the 'noise' and 'gradient' options weren't showing, and it had remembered my misguided settings, so I wanted a fresh start :)

I don't miss the registry... perhaps a 'delete ...

Just a note to mention that you may need to delete saved preferences if updating/unbreaking/starting fresh - ~/.config/OpenInverter/IPMMotorSim.conf on Linux

HV will be isolated with ignition off. The car may periodically turn it on to power the DC-DC to keep the 12V battery charged, and it will be enabled with ignition on and while plugged in. That's it.

If you just want to charge while parked, use your panels to power a small inverter, add an arduino ...

Awesome info, thanks :)

Oh yeah, Qi charging totally overkill, the main advantage is that it'd "always" be charged so long as the car was used occasionally. I guess on the car side, a "signal strong + Qi charger drawing power" might be a sufficient 'ignition' signal but bypassing the imobiliser ...

Nice! I really like the LoRa ideal, might have to steal it

wrt USB charging, how about a QI charge 'receiver' on the fob, and the charger base in the car somewhere? Although that'd sort of 'require' keyless ignition I guess.

Scary...

As above, you have a few issues.

First, safety - You do not want anything accessible from the outside of the vehicle that has any connection to HV (positive or negative). As designed, ALL EVs have their High Voltage bus (batteries, inverter, charger etc etc) completely isolated from the ...

That 'data cable' looks like a microswitch, perhaps a 'fuse cover opened' interlock?