Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread

[Dylan Witt]

also if i was suppose to receive any connector and resistors customs must have taken them, i will order connector and resistor

[bobby_come_lately]

Not to voluntell anyone, but on the pinout table, it would be helpful to have them numbered, and then an accompanying image showing the actual connector and the pins on it numbered so there can be no confusion.

I've added pin numbers and a photo of the AMPSeal socket on Damien's extender board with pin numbers highlighted. My board is with @Bigpie at the moment so can't snap a photo of the IDC but will add that when it comes back.

[Dylan Witt]

Can a Hall effect sensor be used in place of a resistor pot throttle sensor?

[Isaac96]

Yes. Just connect the power and signal lines, and be sure to calibrate using 'get pot' and 'set potmin' and 'set potmax'.

-Isaac

[Dylan Witt]

Yes. Just connect the power and signal lines, and be sure to calibrate using 'get pot' and 'set potmin' and 'set potmax'.

-Isaac

I have the inverter running, but on my throttle pedal at zero throttle, without touching the pedal, it reads 4.02 volts, at max throttle 100% it reads 1.672 volts, should I set my min as 4020 and max at 1672? I read both sensors on the pedal and neither one starts at 0 volts, both start at 4.02 volts at zero throttle input

[konstantin8818]

I believe you can't just set min as 4020 and max as 1672. My pedal is from Toyota rav4, version with metal swing. Three closest to driver pins work as intended, from 0 to 5v.

[Isaac96]

Not quite.
Max should be whatever you get from sending the 'get pot' command with pedal pressed.
Min should be 'get pot' with pedal released. The values do not scale directly to volts because there are 4096 steps over (3.3v or 5v? Not sure).
Just make sure there's a linear response -- check 'get pot' at 90% pedal to make sure it isn't maxing out.

-Isaac

[Dylan Witt]

i have the gen three inverter working, but im having an issue with the transmission/motor, the motor is failing to spin, it wants to spin slow but then stops and the inverter turns off, im not getting an over current limit so i have no ideal what it could be, ive check SIN/COS and exciter connections, they are all connected right. what could be my problem?

[bobby_come_lately]

Quick update on my ongoing udc woes. Seems despite two different electronics repair places checking the 50 pin under the microscope, the fault is indeed there. Big thanks to @Bigpie who managed to nail it down and turn it at least into an intermittent fault! Got the motor vibrating yesterday before the issue came back. This morning it worked for about 10 mins - long enough to get the motor vibrating again. Before udc again went all over the place.

Going to see if I can get it removed and replaced tomorrow, maybe with one from the stock board. If not I'll be in touch @JB to see if I can buy another one (connector, not board - though the latter is tempting to ensure this saga is finally resolved).

[Martin1775]

@Dylan
Please check the assignment from the phases of the current sensors.
The Prius inverter have them on phase1 and phase3, but Johannes software expected it on phase 1 and phase2, so if it run in FOC mode you get weird results. Damien created a modified software for the problem, before that I had the control of phase 2 and phase3 hardware exchanged on the board. viewtopic.php?f=14&t=488&start=60#p11328
This was my expirience with the PriusG3_V1b board.

Martin

[Dylan Witt]

i will check them.. i hope this is the problem

[Dylan Witt]

now ive messed up, had motor spinning and updated the software and it removed my boost parameter, and a few other parameters,i dont know how to add them back to the web interface. ive been looking for information the past two days, honestly the last 48 hours has been devoted to trying to get this inverter to run smooth and not over current, i uploaded the parameters and lost the few important settings list, i need to get the software damien uploaded to the board before it was mailed to me

[konstantin8818]

Earlier in this thread Damien posted his parameters if I remember it right. Page 10. Is that what you need? Just don't forget to change dead time to 130.
I've got that smoked board on hands, will power it up this evening and write down all the parameters.

[Jack Bauer]

If running a permanent mag motor like the gs450h then you need to use the foc firmware anyway.

[Dylan Witt]

Wait I thought dead time was 0? Wasn’t the original problem because it was turned on? I will upload the foc software

[konstantin8818]

Wait I thought dead time was 0? Wasn’t the original problem because it was turned on? I will upload the foc software

Zero deadtime was a reason why capacitors blown up in Damien's gen 3 inverter. It is not an issue for gen2, because there board controls only high sides.

[Dylan Witt]

I’ve watched that episode four times, I’m watching fifth time, I might have missed that part

[Dylan Witt]

Well the throttle pots are not zeroing, and I’ve tried three different ones, motor/transmission turns the wheels at 11mph as soon as I touch the throttle, and then it doesn’t slow down plus when going to zero throttle the motor speeds up and slows down. What could be the issue?

[bobby_come_lately]

I have a working inverter at last! Big thanks to everyone who has helped me get this far, especially @Bigpie.

Only got the motor vibrating for now. Have tried swapping phases and varying ampnom and boost a bit, but going to come back to it with a fresh head tomorrow.

For reference, I'm using one of the motors off the Outlander PHEV. Resolver, 10 poles. Trying to get it spinning open loop at the moment with position sensor set to AB or single to avoid HIRESOFS/LORESAMP errors (know what those are but not worked out what is causing them yet).

[Jack Bauer]

Few things to watch for. Set fslpsetpoint to a low value like 3hz. Set boost very high like 30k. Then keep pumping up ampnom until it catches and starts spinning. THEN those pesky Toyotya engineers will ruin your day if you dont have coolant flowing by limiting the delivered amplitude making you think you are doing something wrong. DON'T ask me how I know this:)

[bobby_come_lately]

Few things to watch for. Set fslpsetpoint to a low value like 3hz. Set boost very high like 30k. Then keep pumping up ampnom until it catches and starts spinning. THEN those pesky Toyotya engineers will ruin your day if you dont have coolant flowing by limiting the delivered amplitude making you think you are doing something wrong. DON'T ask me how I know this:)

Brilliant - thank you. Trying this now.

[bobby_come_lately]

Success! Well, sort of.

Motor wouldn't spin but if I spun it manually it would keep going. Wouldn't accelerate though: stuck at 1Hz, whatever I put into fslipspnt.

Wondering if my current limiting resistor (washing machine element) is a little too effective. That's one option. Could swap it for a 20amp breaker to test.

Over on another post @johu has suggested I may need the FOC firmware for this motor as it is synchronous.

Will swap the current limiter out first and try that. Then look at the FOC firmware - think you've already posted a tweaked one for this board somewhere that I will seek out.

[Jack Bauer]

You just don't have enough amplitude. Ditch the resistor and increase the battery voltage if possible.

[bobby_come_lately]

You just don't have enough amplitude. Ditch the resistor and increase the battery voltage if possible.

Fab - thank you.

[bobby_come_lately]

Predictably, you were bang on - it was definitely starved.

Going to change firmware and try to get throttle control tonight.