(WIP)Classic Mini, outlander rdu

[PEDR0]

I’ll probably get some made up once we’re up and running, got it lovely and straight but the bmx has probably thrown it well out of balance, it would probably shake the diff to bits

[TRWIKI]

Hello,
That's an interesting conversion.

I'm also thinking about this engine.

I'm not sure about the engine position in my project, so I'm asking you: Are you sure that this installation position for the engine will work in the long term?

The Mitsubishi has a different installation position in the Mitsubishi Outlander OEM. This ensures the following. Oil filling, oil drainage, oil lubrication of the bearings in the transmission and engine (position of the overflow hole in the transmission and engine) and ventilation slots in the transmission.

However, I am really a beginner and, judging by the photos, you have much more knowledge and experience than I do. I hope everything goes well and I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.

Best regards

[PEDR0]

To be honest, my ev knowledge is pretty limited, The mechanical aspect is where i’m more comfortable, my thoughts on the motor are:
A, the motor has been run in reverse on several other builds with no reported issues.

B, i seem to recall a thread on here where someone had taken the gearbox to bits to check the oil will get where it needs and it looks like it will be fine,

C, it fits there really well on original subframe without having to cut chunks out of it

[mgbgtv8]

I use a BMW E46 pedal sensor like this one in my Mini conversion:

I mounted it directly to the bulkhead oposite to the pedal:

So inside the cabin it remains original.
I had to make a bigger wheel out of sheet metal for the correct gearing. I used the brass inner part of the original wheel and replaced the plastic part.
The bolts are the fixation bolts of the pedal, but originally they were welded to the bulkhead. So I removed the original ones with an angle grinder and replaced it. The bracket shown is too weak, I stiffened it with additional ribs. Just use thicker sheet metal and you should be fine.
The sensor has a return spring, but it is too soft, the pedal "feeling" was not good. I added an additional return spring to the wheel. Unfortunately I made no pictures of the final result and now everything is jam-full (it sits below the inverter and DC-DC), so I cannot make a good picture.
The sensor is no dual sensor, as I hoped due to the six cables. The remaining cables are for the kick-down switch and something else I forgot. Single sensor is not recommended as I read in this forum. But I hope it will work nonetheless. Up to now I have driven only a few km's, but it worked good.

[PEDR0]

So I’ve currently got the full bmw 6pack crammed in the front of the mini with inverter and sbox sat in there too. 341v according to my cheapo multi meter

Don’t trust the slightly bent front pamnel so i went and cut the front off the parts shell i have sat outside.

Two lower modules are boxed and under the shelf and boy its tight!

Just need to build the top box and i can mount the inverter and pipe up the cooling, just waiting on a parts delivery to be able to crack on

[tom91]

Sure but how is the motor cable going into the inverter? And how is the HV going into the inverter?

Also where is the radiator? And where is the charger and dcdc?

All looks very much a tight squeeze yet seems to border on the possible.

[PEDR0]

Its extremely tight tom, there is room for the inverter to motor cables to pass between the battery boxes to the under side of the temporary checkerplate. The hv can pass around the back and go either side of the inverter. The charger will probably have to go in the boot or maybe under the front seat using the gear stick hole for access. Not sure if any of this will work yet but its weirdly enjoyable trying to work it all out

[PEDR0]

Has anyone used or know anything about the outlander tw-90 charger. Can’t really find any info on them?

[tom91]

outlander tw-90 charger

This is a converter not a charger.

[PEDR0]

Cheers tom, just looking to see if there’s a better option than the outlander one i have. I’d like to get something that will charge a bit quicker for if i’m out and about, any suggestions??

[tom91]

https://citini.com/product/6-6kw-200-40 ... -5kw-dcdc/ The one in my webstore

Or you need to look for an MG V2L charger like Damien has on his red arrow and others are reverse engineering to work with ZombieVerter. Ofcourse you would need to source all the plugs too and such.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167595006637 ... R_ri3s-UZg

Just realised, you do not want to really do too much fast charging on that small BMW pack that would wear it out quickly. Also got to watch the temps for sure, so you would need a BMS for it.

[PEDR0]

Cheers tom, I’m probably thinking a bit too far into the future, I’m thinking it would be nice to be able to charge it on journeys without having to park up for hours on end, I guess I could add another pack in the boot and see how i end up range wise, the caveat being it would double my charge time

[arber333]

Cheers tom, just looking to see if there’s a better option than the outlander one i have. I’d like to get something that will charge a bit quicker for if i’m out and about, any suggestions??

You could use 2x or 3x chargers in parallel. Either use Outlander chargers with Cp repeater signal or get some other CAN based chargers. I use one Outlander charger and the other one is Eltek charger.
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... -parallel/
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... e-control/
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... 41121-030/

[PEDR0]

So managed to get a bit more time to work on the mini, got my parts delivered and started to have a look at the zombieverter, does anyone have any idea why I would be getting
Status: potpressed
But not get any errors or be able to get run mode. Tried to configure throttle but getting no readings back
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated,

[tom91]

Plot pot and pot 2.

if those do not move your wiring is wrong.

[PEDR0]

Hi tom, thanks for the quick response, would potpressed stop run mode without pedal connected, I’ve tried numerous ways with test setup and with actual ignition, followed gregskis videos,
It’s as if potpressed is bricking everything.
Or I’m not getting communication with the zombie

[tom91]

...

No pedal is no run mode. What is the point of run mode without a pedal or inputs wired anyway?

[PEDR0]

I’m just trying to work step by step to get the motor to spin, as yet I haven’t been able to get anything to show on spot values, not even an error

[tom91]

You are getting, potpressed spotvalue...

Wiring and configuring your throttle is one of the first steps before anything else.

[PEDR0]

So I managed to get the pedal sorted, turns out I have some sort of coms issue, keep getting this, does anyone have any ideas of what could be causing it and what the best solution is, it’s driving me nuts, thanks in advance

[PEDR0]

Sorry, forgot screenshot

[Jacobsmess]

Looks like your WiFi isnt communicating with your zombie, they deleting the JSON files on the files tab. Then fully power off leave it a few minutes and try again. Failing that, it might be worth reflashing the zombie firmware.

[Alibro]

Sorry, forgot screenshot

I frequently get the same issue and it seems to be completely random when it appears.
I'll be updating the Zombie soon but if that doesn't work I'll try replacing the WiFi module.

[PEDR0]

Its really frustrating, the other day it was going Pot values-whiteout-redbanner-potvalues
every 10-15 seconds like it was on a loop. I looked on wiki and it looks like some have managed to set something up through obd/can but I don’t really understand how it all works, damien mentioned it in one of his lab updates but hadn’t managed to confirm as he had a cheapy china adapter that didn’t work

[Proton]

I am getting the same error after I put the ignition on. I have to do all my changes and then put the ignition on to test.
If I remember correctly if I am not doing autobrefresh I can still do changes even after the ignition is on.
I use the Tesla SDU. This happened only after I introduced the ESP32. On the inverter with WiFi on the board when I did not use the ESP32 I had no issues.