openinverter forum

Mandatory Stare 'n' Compare of the BMW hybrid battery pack individual modules (found in the 330e, 530e, 740e, and the X5)

the 9 kWh older SP06 vs the newer 12 kWh SP41

Numbers! Numbers! Specifically the weight. I neeeed to know!

Zieg wrote: ↑Thu Oct 31, 2024 11:22 pm Numbers! Numbers! Specifically the weight. I neeeed to know!

linky links, in the Description of the Videos


https://www.diyelectriccar.com/posts/1080969/

"and I couldn't resist weighing one of the modules, it weighs 27.7 lbs so six times that equals 166.2 for all six modules"

Whoops, sorry about that. Those are the 9kWh version, right? And the Sp41 you just got is 12? Really curious about the weight difference at the module level.

alright time to tell you what you already know, both the older SP06 and the newer SP41 modules are made up of 16 cells, in alternating formation, think of them like domino pieces of 1 and 0 laid down on their sides

- +
+ -
- +
+ -

type of stuff, this is obviously done for spaceabilty and practicality and storegability otherwise the modules would be an inch thich and a mile long since joining cells in series means linking or connecting them plus to minus, plus to minus, plus to minus, plus to... well you get the idea (by the way solar panels do the same sh!et) this adds up the voltage so 4 volts plus 4 volts plus 4 volts, etc...

Zieg wrote: ↑Thu Oct 31, 2024 11:22 pm Numbers! Numbers! Specifically the weight. I neeeed to know!

sorry it took me so long, I am trying to get back on track in this game called life, ha ha

this is the new SP41 module with the BMS slave module attached weighing in at 28.2 freedom pounds, the truck will be equipped with a dozen of these beauties


the module is approximately 7 inches wide


the length is a bit tricky so hear me out, with the slave BMS module it appears to be 15 1/2 inches long

height looks like 4 1/4 inches

something to look out for or account for are these pesky plastic feets that stick out about 1/8th of an inch on each side, now you can grind these flat, I did that on my first pack cause I did not account for them space wise, so I avoided a close call there

Thank you! Wow, that is pretty good. Guess it works out to 14.1 lb/kwh including BMS.. I like it!

just an eTruck doin' truck things !

So you need an EV truck to dump the EV scrap caused by all yer EV meddling!
Proper.

The circle of life

Alibro wrote: ↑Wed Nov 06, 2024 6:26 pm So you need an EV truck to dump the EV scrap caused by all yer EV meddling!
Proper.

just hammin' it up on my way to the metal recycler with a big smile on my face cause the truck is running great, and check out these street names

and now a video update:

Still annoyed you didn't check that bin

Hi Greg,
Would you have any dimensions for the cell hold down bolt holes?
Cheers

Hmmm.... and I got in the Sh*t for going off topic in a build thread I wanted to buy the cooling tray parts of the scrap you were going to transport to the scrap yard, you would have made better than $100 and still had the aluminium cases to sell .... To bad, I'll keep my eye out over ere in Aust or anyone doing a similar thing ......
I got my complete Lexus 450h home yesterday, so I'll start my project thread soon, thank you for all the time you spent filming your build, it gave me a lot of encouragement .... and a warning about staying on the right side of the household co inhabitant All the insurance money is in her account, no replacement house for me

T1 Terry

Uppertown wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2024 1:40 pm Hi Greg,
Would you have any dimensions for the cell hold down bolt holes?
Cheers

center of bolt hole to center width wise is 87 mm

center of bolt hole to center length wise is 14 1/8 inches (sorry I did not have a metric measuring tape that long)

the holes appear to be 8 mm in diameter, but the bolts are only 5 mm

T1Terry wrote: ↑Tue Nov 12, 2024 7:03 am Hmmm.... and I got in the Sh*t for going off topic in a build thread I wanted to buy the cooling tray parts of the scrap you were going to transport to the scrap yard, you would have made better than $100 and still had the aluminium cases to sell .... To bad, I'll keep my eye out over ere in Aust or anyone doing a similar thing ......
I got my complete Lexus 450h home yesterday, so I'll start my project thread soon, thank you for all the time you spent filming your build, it gave me a lot of encouragement .... and a warning about staying on the right side of the household co inhabitant All the insurance money is in her account, no replacement house for me

T1 Terry

sorry mate I had someone ask for those parts from my first pack years ago and the cost to ship them at that time to Canada if I recall correctly made it cost prohibitive, the aluminum heat sinks are sort of useless without their supporting heavy ass steel plates that they sit atop of

we now join Phase 2 of the truck project already in progress...

Our mission should we choose to accept it, is two fold:

1. Replace the 9 kWh battery pack with two 12 kWh battery packs
2. Enable MG1 by locking out the input shaft

below I already removed the first gen Chevy Volt charger and DC-DC converter

nice thing about owning a truck is that it comes with it's own workbench/storage space

so I just had a random thought I want to share, each one of these BMW 67 volt modules is the equivalent of 8 Nissan Leaf sardine cans, voltage wise (I do realize the Leaf modules hold more energy) and to be fairer I am comparing the 2019 Leaf modules to the 2019 BMW modules, and not the older Leaf packs (despite of what you see in the pics below)

we know that the BMW modules weigh 28 el-bee-esses each and the Leafsters are 8.3 lbs each so an 8-pack would come in at 66 pounds so more than double the weight

again if we continue to ignore the much higher energy capacity of the Leaf pack (Nissan 40 kWh vs the BMW 12 kWh), we can clearly declare ourselves the short sighted winner here!


and yes I am aware the pics below are from the earlier Gen but that's all I could find in a stack of 8

I'm pretty sure I stole these from Ben's 300MPG.org website

Do you take off the negative or positive wire first?

Easy.

You want to be like Ghandi. You want to stay positive. You want to spend the least amount of time as you can being negative.

That means the negative terminal is the first to be disconnected, and the last to be reconnected.

I've never heard controversy around this, it's factual.

If you remove the negative lead, and then accidentally touch it to the body of the car, nothing happens. If you remove the positive lead and then accidentally touch it to the body of the car, you've shorted the battery.

Is it better to have a huge risk of shorting the battery, or a tiny risk?

Thanks for coming to my Ted talk.

Yes yes yes. This advice should NOT be ignored.

You NEVER go anywhere near the live terminal of a start battery while the ground terminal is still connected to the vehicle.

If you're using a spanner to undo the live terminal and it happens to slip and touch a grounded part of the vehicle you get an instant weld on both ends of the spanner and you are suddenly dumping the entire stored energy in that battery through a nearly zero ohm THICK piece of metal. Before it finally acts as a fuse it will likely become red hot preventing you from unsticking it. The battery, if in good condition (very low internal resistance) will boil, and you have the potential for an explosion. Things will go south very quickly. I learnt this the hard way as a 15yo disconnecting the battery in the boot of my first ever Mini. That's a mistake you only make once.

ALWAYS disconnect the earthed terminal first. If you're just temporarily isolating the system that is all you need to do - don't touch the live terminal at all.

marcexec wrote: ↑Mon Nov 11, 2024 10:10 am image.png
Still annoyed you didn't check that bin

Oh there?! I think all those bins were empty and for sure off limits to public access, they were inside the enclosure, sorry.

now what?


Deseret Industries [pronounced: "Thrift Store"]

Oh!

What? it's non conductive and fully adjustable