openinverter forum

Hi proton, do you have 120ohms on the chargers canbus line?
my charger would connect but not charge, that was because the chargers canbus resistor is not connected. even when not controlling the charger via canbus, you should terminate the canbus of the charger.

also what s the tesla P/N of your charger? i've read that some P/Ns ending with some letters sometimes doesnt work.

PetersonOctavius wrote: ↑Sun May 11, 2025 8:04 pm Hi proton, do you have 120ohms on the chargers canbus line?
my charger would connect but not charge, that was because the chargers canbus resistor is not connected. even when not controlling the charger via canbus, you should terminate the canbus of the charger.

also what s the tesla P/N of your charger? i've read that some P/Ns ending with some letters sometimes doesnt work.

I did not add anything on the board:

here is my board. If is not there can you tell me where it should go on the board? or can you post a picture with yours?

Top left, Solder to terminate.

tom91 wrote: ↑Mon May 12, 2025 6:06 pm Top left, Solder to terminate.

This one ?

No the other one that say "solder to terminate can"... /jk
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Tesla_Mod ... N2_Charger

then I guess this is the one?

it says " remember to close the solder jumper next to R1 under the WiFi module."

not the dots, the 2 rectangular pads, right above R1 resistor.

PetersonOctavius wrote: ↑Mon May 12, 2025 9:02 pm not the dots, the 2 rectangular pads, right above R1 resistor.

Thank you! Octavius. I will try this tonight.
If this works, I will add the screenshot to the wiki

correct!! i really hope it works !!!

This is what I am seeing. reading on the forum I know that CheckAlive is not good.
Serial number looks good, I have 120V and the high voltage connected.
Based on the pinout not sure if the green Jumper is needed. I just saw that on gregsky's tesla charger. I did not see anybody posting a picture with the connectors or a screenshot from a working inverter.

im running firmware version 1.17R.

that green jumper wire i removed it. mine was a yellow wire
find below my params and the firmware file.

@Octavius Thank you for the firmware.
It looks different now.
STATE now is WaiStart and there is no more error for c1flag.
now there is not more red lights on the 3 inverter modules even if the run mode is manual.

I am going to remove the jumper later to see if that makes a difference.

why is your udcspnt 385 and udclim 398?

it won't start without the jumper

PetersonOctavius wrote: ↑Tue May 13, 2025 6:42 pm why is your udcspnt 385 and udclim 398?

I uploaded your settings. I have to recheck them.

@PetersoOcravian, can you post a picture with your connectors?

I changed the voltages and now it behave same: goes into "run"mode as before "CheckAlive" again.

You have no CAN comms with the charger modules at all. Have you checked that you measure 60 Ohm across the 120 Ohm resistor you closed? I suspect something is not well with the connector soldering, it is a bit had to get right.

Even the unfit serial numbers show some sort of communication

@johu this one ?




I will try a 120ohm resistor.

I want to remember that I had issues soldering the original tesla connector on the Opeinverter board. At that time I did not know that I can buy an new connector. Is possible that I damaged then(over a year ago) the board, when I soldered the connection and there is no communication with the inverter because of that.

and if that is the case I cannot spend another $500 on another board, because I do not know if that is the problem

The resistor is already there! Just close the jumper and measure across the resistor R1

johu wrote: ↑Wed May 14, 2025 2:25 pm The resistor is already there! Just close the jumper and measure across the resistor R1

I re-soldered the jumper to make sure it is good.

Across R1 I am getting 0.1Ohm. it starts at about 0.8 Ohm and then slowly droops to 0.1 Ohm

looks like this is your problem, do you have a 120Ohm resistor?
try putting it across R1, then measure the resistance, if its not 120ohm or 60ohm, maybe you can try removing R1

0 Ohm means bus is shorted!

Check soldering of connector

Good news, the charger is 66% working. 2 out of 3 chargers are working.

I want to thank @tom91 @PetersonOctavius and @johu for help.

that being said this was a painful process. I do not think a board should be sent out for public consumption without the big connector soldered. the small connectors are easy to solder,and even the big one if I knew that I can buy a replacement connector. I only knew that I have to de-solder the original connector and re-solder it.

hey proton, it can be frustrating when you lack some skills, but take it easy, dont rush it.
i didnt finish my first conversion because i had to wait on people to weld my motor brackets for me. after 1.5 years, i gave up on it.
then a friend gave me an old audi, with blown engine.
i learned how to weld, then i started the conversion. in 1 month i had the rolling car on battery power.

this is written in the product description on https://evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop:
"V5 Logic board for the Tesla GEN2 onboard battery charger.
Soldering required
Connectors NOT supplied. Please see attached connector BOM for part details."

that's why we have the forum, to help each other.
i learned a lot on here, it might not be straight forward, but always feel free to ask.
and again be patient.

now on to finding out why the 3rd charger isnt charging.
chargerena = set to 7?

PetersonOctavius wrote: ↑Thu May 15, 2025 1:32 am
chargerena = set to 7?

Is in the screenshot above. It is 1 7 7. But at this point could this still be connector related? since the board can communicate with the other 2 chargers?