openinverter forum

RetroZero wrote: ↑Wed Jul 01, 2020 9:05 pm Got some flashing lights tonight . However, I now need the password to connect to wifi please..(wasn't with the pinout notice.
Hope to start small and spin the AC compressor from 12V supply.

try 'inverter123'

The wifi password is on the paper sheet included with the kit - I sent it via PM anyway

Thanks

I'm in the matrix
Lots of nice numbers and decimals.

Next step 'running in manual mode' from 12 volts supply (hv) and 12 volts supply to adapter board, inverter 2 pin connecter and Mg2 excitation.
I assume common ground with inverter casing and "motor" for all low voltage side.
High voltage remains separate circuit?

So lights flashing.
Communication with Adapter board OK. Running 12V batteries for All 12V inputs( Adapt Board pin + and MSDN), and another for HV Input.
3 faults I can't get rid of...
1. WARN PWMSTUCK - WIll this stop Running Manual Mode?
2. DERATE TMPHSMAX - Set to 150 after checking different posts - (displayed value around 107)
3. STOP PRECHARGE - Set UDCSW to 0 after checking some of the posts and UDCMIN to 10V...

Is the Precharge the only fault blocking running in Manual Mode?

ignore pwmstuck, I think I will remove this in the next version...
TMPHSMAX - yes I still have to add the Prius temp profile to firmware - setting tmphsmax to 150 is mandatory, otherwise always 0 throttle is commanded
PRECHARGE - this will inhibit entering run mode via start input, but manual mode would work anyway

Doing the arber 'light bulb' test for pwm signal in manual mode
In actual values, I see il1 & il2 fluctuating between - 0,6A and +1A. That means pwm is doing something right?
However, with 12v on DC link, and light bulb on one phase and ground to inverter casing, there's no light bulb moment.
I have about 2V on the 3 MG2 outputs.
What am I missing

RetroZero wrote: ↑Mon Jul 06, 2020 4:15 pm Doing the arber 'light bulb' test for pwm signal in manual mode
In actual values, I see il1 & il2 fluctuating between - 0,6A and +1A. That means pwm is doing something right?
However, with 12v on DC link, and light bulb on one phase and ground to inverter casing, there's no light bulb moment.
I have about 2V on the 3 MG2 outputs.
What am I missing

Shit! You are not seriously touching the casing with a phase return!!! Stop before you release the smoke... I guess Toyota engineers are not impressed by your attempt.
What you want to do is wire three 12V car bulbs in a delta configuraton. Their links connected together one after each other so that you get 3 wire ends. Then connect this intersections to inverter phases.
If you now command 1Hz and some give some amps manually you should see them blinking in 1/3s succession.
Also since you use only 12V you should give amps about 75% to get any response.
EDIT: See the pic attached. Maybe you can get it to Wiki?

Oh shit! Number one power electronics screw up from yours truly?
Hope Toyota boys will still play tomorrow, along with shiny new adapter board
This is turning out to be more than I bargained for.
Thanks for the précisions. They are going into wiki.

Thanks again arber. I'll do something for the wiki. I did some reading into difference between with and without neutral...
Ac is not my strong point, so I 'll have to go learning again...
Toyota boys happy today. No overcurrent message.
I only get 0,03A (idc) @1hz & 100% ampnom. No light bulb moment
Too scared to go giving more power after yesterday's scare....
Back to scrolling through posts for now.

set boost to maximum

Thanks Damien. Been creeping up with boost to 30 000.
WiFi keeps loosing signal, so trying to get stable voltage.(think that is the problem there)
fslipspnt - 1
ampnom - 100%
3,6v on all 3 phase wires.

I got up to 1A idc before wifi crashed, but 21w bulbs don't light up. Should I use 5w bulbs?
Charging my batteries for now.

Read this for wifi problem :
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=832

Got that thanks. I haven't moved from my 'man cave', so thought dodgy batteries could be a good start. Wifi seems happy now.
Now back to Why no light bulb moment

I suppose this goes for all 'first start ups' of inverter boards...
I would strongly advise test with delta light bulb set up - thanks arber, I 'll get it onto wiki. And put 'dirmode' in Default Forward.
I have flashing lights .
Now, would a Prius Ac motor spin?... One way to find out.
Thanks for the pointers so far.

One big step for mankind.
MG1 spinning from MG2 phase outputs... It's been 4 long months to get here .

Full boost with 12v supply, default forward, ampnom @ 70%, and fslipspnt @8 Hz!

Good progress! Now for the fun part: main and precharge contractors

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 2:22 pm Good progress! Now for the fun part: main and precharge contractors

I suggest you use proper DC rated relay for precharge. It's 40€ and peace of mind. I use 25W 150R ceramic resistor. It's enough for second or two dT.

RetroZero wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 1:04 pm One big step for mankind.
MG1 spinning from MG2 phase outputs... It's been 4 long months to get here .

Full boost with 12v supply, default forward, ampnom @ 70%, and fslipspnt @8 Hz!

Really nice. Try connecting resolver to get real torque mode now. When you start with forward mode encoder exciter comes alive and with it oc sensing. If everything is not aligned you will get oc. So I suggest you use a 3 position switch fwd/neutral/Rev to have control over direction.

arber333 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 2:40 pm I suggest you use proper DC rated relay for precharge. It's 40€ and peace of mind. I use 25W 150R ceramic resistor. It's enough for second or two dT.

My precharge is Toyota Prius precharge relay, rated 400v. Resistor is 50W 47kOhm, I believe this setup is more than capable for my tasks.

Well THIS is going to be the cause of much distraction for the rest of my work day...

Safe and Sound!

Christmas in July!
I am waiting on a Prius battery which has precharge and resistors. WIll upgrade to KiloVac contacters along with Isa Shunt later...Step by step.

I used a YooToobe famous EV conversion Guru's light bulb safety device and a light switch

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 2:57 pm My precharge is Toyota Prius precharge relay, rated 400v. Resistor is 50W 47kOhm, I believe this setup is more than capable for my tasks.

47k? I hope that's a typo. 20-2000 ohm is probably the reasonable range, generally speaking.

The lower the precharge resistance, the faster the system has to be to cancel the precharge when it isn't succeeding.

The higher the precharge resistance, the higher the bleed down resistance in the system has to be in order to reach good voltage, and the longer the precharge will take.

celeron55 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 7:21 pm

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 2:57 pm My precharge is Toyota Prius precharge relay, rated 400v. Resistor is 50W 47kOhm, I believe this setup is more than capable for my tasks.

47k? I hope that's a typo. 20-2000 ohm is probably the reasonable range, generally speaking.

That wasn't a typo but my short memory Yes it is 47 Ohm, system precharges to 60 volts in one second.