openinverter forum

CoreyS wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 7:23 pm

Domt177 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 6:20 pm

CoreyS wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 5:04 pm Following as I also have an E46 Touring. Are you going to do any subframe reinforcement?

Reinforcing for what?

I’ll drop my diff and get it spray blasted and powder coated sometime soon as it’s not in the best of states and while it’s out I’ll take care of the classic e46 subframe rust if that’s what you mean

Technically it's the rear axle carrier panel, but most people call it the subframe. It tends to crack due to the shear stresses of the drivetrain. My old 330i was starting to crack, but it was in poor condition.

Here is a good article on the topic:
https://cmpautoengineering.com/pages/pa ... ill-i-know

Thanks, i was unaware of this happeneing to E46’s, do you know anywhere/a good method for reinforcing it?

36320e wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:13 pm How will you overcome the iluminated warning lights on the instrument cluster without the engine? Have you also removed the ecu? Im currently converting a saloon e46. My understanding so far is that it will have to be done over can bus. Have you made any progress with this?

By replicating the needed CAN messages, it shouldn’t be very difficult and will be added into the ZombieVerter VCU currently in developmemnt, which will then be back ported to my normal GS450H VCU, until then I haven’t decided how ill replicate them as a short term solution, maybe with the OrionBMS ill be using

streber wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:19 pm I am also converting a E46 Touring. You'll need to emulate the right CAN messages from the ECU to make the instrument cluster happy. Luckily Damien's new Zombieverter has the code for that: https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32- ... an_E46.cpp

I'm not quite that far, but I'll share it when I get it integrated into the VCU software (unless someone else beats me to it).

Thanks, I plan on using the Zombieverter features when they get backported, until then I’m not sure what ill use as a short term solution, also need to work out some contractor controlling as that isnt supported in the easy-to-use V3 software I’m running - ZeroEV do a contactor controller for £100 so i may go with that.

Domt177 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:56 pm

CoreyS wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 7:23 pm

Domt177 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 6:20 pm

Reinforcing for what?

I’ll drop my diff and get it spray blasted and powder coated sometime soon as it’s not in the best of states and while it’s out I’ll take care of the classic e46 subframe rust if that’s what you mean

Technically it's the rear axle carrier panel, but most people call it the subframe. It tends to crack due to the shear stresses of the drivetrain. My old 330i was starting to crack, but it was in poor condition.

Here is a good article on the topic:
https://cmpautoengineering.com/pages/pa ... ill-i-know

Thanks, i was unaware of this happeneing to E46’s, do you know anywhere/a good method for reinforcing it?

Redish Motorsport is one of the originators of the fix. They weld reinforcement plates to the underside of the car to strengthen that area.

https://www.redish-motorsport.com/E46M3 ... ement.html

They are located in the UK as well, though I don't know how far away they are from you.

CoreyS wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 9:22 pm

Domt177 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 8:56 pm

CoreyS wrote: ↑Fri Mar 19, 2021 7:23 pm

Technically it's the rear axle carrier panel, but most people call it the subframe. It tends to crack due to the shear stresses of the drivetrain. My old 330i was starting to crack, but it was in poor condition.

Here is a good article on the topic:
https://cmpautoengineering.com/pages/pa ... ill-i-know

Thanks, i was unaware of this happeneing to E46’s, do you know anywhere/a good method for reinforcing it?

Redish Motorsport is one of the originators of the fix. They weld reinforcement plates to the underside of the car to strengthen that area.

https://www.redish-motorsport.com/E46M3 ... ement.html

They are located in the UK as well, though I don't know how far away they are from you.

I looked into them previously for rust work but decided against it, i may reconsider though as the they’re only about 2 hours away.

I don’t have means to transport the car until it’s drivable so once its finished i may pay them a visit with it

Got the pack open and removed all the modules over the weekend

Firstly removed the fire-resistant cover to expose the bolts

Unbolted, pryed-up and removed the end cover, where the 2 extra modules for an 85-pack would be
Drained elon elixir by firing air in one end and coolant came out the other. Then unbolted the rest and peeled up the cover to expose the modules Noticed the top module us only a 5s not a 6s like all of the other modules, after some Googling it appears all 75-packs made after sometime in 2017 are like this, cant think why. Going to reuse as many as i can of the original rails which pretty much bolt up to the modules to mount them in place, then weld those to a battery box.

If anyone knows the screw bit name at the end of the pack covering the contactors then it would be appreciated.

Not sure if it will help much but I'm currently converting a 2004 Freelander which has similar CAN to the E46.
The CAN for it was interpreted a while ago and I posted here.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/ ... ev.360880/

http://www.loopybunny.co.uk/CarPC/k_can.html
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32- ... /Can_E46.h
Might be of some use

How do I go about adding this to my VCU? Ideally I’d like to be able to use my Rev counter an an ammeter, so is it easier to go though using the VCU or using something else to trick the instrument cluster

Spent some time doing professional CAD - think I can only fit 3 modules under the boot at the back, but fortunately 11 fit under the bonnet so I get a full 75kWh, weight distribution will be a bit upset but shouldn’t be too bad
Also took apart the back of the Tesla pack and retrieved the contractors, 23ohm precharge resistor, Main BMS board and pyrofuse (which was at the front)

75kWh? Wow! That will be amazing!
CAD looks great - cardboard aided design anyone?

Isaac96 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 26, 2021 12:42 am 75kWh? Wow! That will be amazing!
CAD looks great - cardboard aided design anyone?

Hoping to get at least 210mi of motorway range, and with some efficiency mods I’ll do later on, 230+Mi

And most certainly cardboard aided design, only the best for me

I'm interested in your battery layout... in the engine bay are you basically fitting a stack of 6 and a stack of 5 transverse? I'm planning a wagon project and had been thinking an i3 battery pack but am now rethinking the tesla modules!

mappleton wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 1:01 am I'm interested in your battery layout... in the engine bay are you basically fitting a stack of 6 and a stack of 5 transverse? I'm planning a wagon project and had been thinking an i3 battery pack but am now rethinking the tesla modules!

Nearly but not quite as simple, fortunately the chassis rails in the E46 are *just* big enough for a module plus some space each side for coolant hoses or bus bars.

Under the chassis rails I have 1 upright on its side and 2 flat on top of each other. Leaves enough space for a radiator up front too.
Then above the chassis rails I have a stack of 4 towards the back and a stack of 3 towards the front, making 10 under the bonnet, then another 4 where the spare tyre was, stacked upright on the side.

Domt177 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 07, 2021 8:24 pm IMG_0306.HEIC.jpgIMG_0310.HEIC.jpg

If anyone has a pointers / tips for mountain fabrication, it would be appreciated

Sure:
Piece of U steal and to the gearbox you use a piece of flat 6mm steel.

You bend the 6mm steel to re-use the threaded holes.
Now you get a centre point.

The U piece van be like 3/4mm thick depending on the hight of the U.

Now what i cant see very well is if it lines up, but i do see another hole on the pic so that would basicly mean throwing another piece from the lower one to the upper hole (like a broken X).

Now the trick. In between the two you mount a rubber foot damper / anti vibration.

like:

Almost got her running recently but one of my resolver connectors wasn’t properly wired and I broke it trying to re-wire it.

So in the mean time I have fitted the model 3 CCS charging port where the original fuel filler was using some aluminium brackets.
In there nice and sturdy, had to grind away a lot of the plastic and temporarily remove the DC pins, but functional for now

Super impressed you got that in! My el cheapo aliexpress version was a struggle on the Goose.

Thanks, thought I’d have to permanently remove the rear washer tank but it just about fitted with it, still to add CCS DC pins but will do that closer to when there’s a CCS controller out

Fitted my Power steering pump now, wasn’t where I wanted it to go as it didn’t quite fit but this isn’t a permanent solution, within a year or so it will be replaced with an EPS column compatible with Openpilot which I also plan on retrofitting
Hoses made by pirtek and costed £80 ish, because they had to put in a valve restrictor as they didn’t know how restrictive the restrictor in the e46 steering hoses are, suppose it means I can change between light and heavy/sporty steering

Fitted a linear actuator to engage/disengage park under the car, works a treat and hooked it up to a DPDT switch, will fit a push button for it eventually
It’s made by Actuonix, if anyone is interested I can send the link to the one I bought, believe it’s ip54 water resistant too

After many failed attempts due to my small brain not figuring out how to wire the connectors properly, i managed to get it to spin the wheels on 2x 12v batteries, then the next day i hooked up 1 tesla module and drove it around and tested it a bit, all seems to be good so far!

Very happy about that and now i can get on with my battery box, just recieved the box pieces back from the metal works so ready to weld it up and install them and an Orion BMS

Also deciding whether I put my chademo port at the back or the front

Don't want to spoil your For Sale thread, but could I ask why you're thinking of changing direction on this? E46-GS450h is my medium term plan but not sure if I'm able to take this yet. Good to know if there are specific reasons you have for a different solution..

johnfin wrote: ↑Wed Aug 04, 2021 7:39 am Don't want to spoil your For Sale thread, but could I ask why you're thinking of changing direction on this? E46-GS450h is my medium term plan but not sure if I'm able to take this yet. Good to know if there are specific reasons you have for a different solution..

Mainly due to my wants, i want to fit in all 14 tesla modules from my 75D pack, which cannot be done without it being unsafe or major chassis work.

Switching to a tesla motor frees up space in the engine bay and fuel tank area (no drive shaft) and saves weight so i can fit in all the batteries. It also allows me to balance the weight better.

I also wanted the car ready to use this summer, which isnt going to happen (due to running out of money, so got a summer job, i am 17 after all) and i always wanted a tesla motor for a long term solution so going to save up for a model 3 RDU or model s/x SDU

Understandable (all except the being 17 part!) - good luck with the saving & sourcing for the new plans.

Finally time for an update

Tesla Small Rear Drive unit arrived today, bought for £1550 + vat, including original HV cable and driveshafts, has 8k miles.
Here’s some pics of it lined up against the original E46 Subframe it will eventually rest in