openinverter forum

This CV axle thing is getting annoying. nothing I buy matches the original one.
the star size and spline numbers is different on all 3.
Next I need to either go to the dealershipp and spen $300 if they match and the dealership is not doing the same thing, or go and find CV axles from old cars.

Pohhh not allot of luck yet .

Idea maybe (trying to help you):

Do you know / have the original axle diameter? Maybe the diameter is also different but the diameter is easy to measure by the sellers so you can compare.

Yes the splines are not 1:1 related to it i know; but it could be that its an indicator to know which axle you have/need.

Since your tesla axle is made custom maybe you can find the Nissan donor part somewhere and measure it up.

johu wrote: ↑Sat Jul 15, 2023 12:10 pm I'm quite sure it'll need 2x 5V, 2x GND and outputs 2 somehow proportional position voltages.
Just a wild guess: pink and orange 5V, green ans white/black signals, black and white ground. Try with a very low current limit, like 20 mA

crasbe wrote: ↑Mon Jul 17, 2023 10:05 am The Service Manual includes a schematic, I found one online (without registration bullshit) for a 2016 model: https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-ni ... ce-manual/

As usual, the Nissan manual is quite outstanding, here are some screenshots, which are relevant for you:

(Page 1819)
image.png

I just opened the harness and there are 2 twisted pairs. is that supposed to mean something. are the standalone wires the 5V+ ?

Black and White are twisted together.
Green and White/Black are twisted together.
Orange and Red/Blue are standalone.

Do you still have the ECU in the car? Then you could just measure it?

Not sure how to do that. also I already cut the wires and there in no 12v power anymore.

I used a volt meter inline with a power supply and it seems that they are paired:

1-2-5 Black - White - Orange
3-4-6 Green - White/Black - Red/Blue

At this this point I am suspecting
Orange and Red/Blue as 5V+
Black and Green as GROUND
White and White/Black as signals

On the first pair when I press the acceleration on the White I get between 0.6v to 2.5V
and
2nd pair when I press the acceleration I get on the White/Black wire between 0.7v and 4.6V

Which voltage is better?

Update:
Went with the 2nd pair. Still need to test it.

Finally I have the CV Axles done and I am ready to move the car. Problem is that my batteries are not here yet.
Can I damage the Tesla SDU inverter if I try to move the care at 40V? or if there is no enough power it will not move.

Damien has an extensive video about how not to kill your Tesla inverter:

He talks about low voltage test setups as well.

I will watch. I tested the motor at 27V and I see that Johannes tested his Touran with the Nissan Leaf motor at 30V but I do not know how the SDU will behave under a big load at 40V.

So finally made the car run with a solar panel.
CV Axles are done and I ordered 39KW of batteries only, they fit perfectly in the space in the back of the car. For now that is good. In the future I can add more if needed.




The next step is to do the messy job of modifying the OIL pump.
Not looking forward to that at all.

And another test.

Started the Oil pump modification.

I did not know that Testa started using LFP batteries(Lithium Iron Phosphate) in their cars.

This is a very good video that explains LFP batteries in electric cars.

I decided to use the existing oil filter housing instead of machining something new.
I think I still need to work on the oil pump based on this thread.. viewtopic.php?p=38369#p38369
But I cannot figure out from pictures exactly what modifications were made to the pressure relief valve inside.

I am done modifying the Oil pump and it works in reverse.
It can be done using the original filter.
The only mistake was to cut the intake. I cannot move the original intake lower because of the cover support. Pretty much the back of the oil pump sits in the same position, but lower and it is connected to the original exit.

The CV axles do not want to give me a break. I installed the motor back in the car and I destroyed one of the Tesla CV bots and now I can't find one to buy. For now I modified with a cutter one of the old Nissan inner boots and will test that next few days.
if anyone knows where to buy a Tesla Inner cv axle boot please let me know.

Only progress was to learn how to install some libraries in Arduino and test the screen.

Send mail to the custom shaft producers they sure know.
There is also a brand on autodoc for driveshafts they sell the boot too If memory serves me right.

Got the batteries from China.

I went for 105AH. If I need they ca do 3C discharge rate for 60 seconds. around 220kg if I remember correctly. I should be able to have 120 mile range.
If I need to change them for more amps, I can use them in my solar system, or convert one of the Toyota Prius cars have.

This is 39KW. I bought 116. can use 4 for a 12v battery.

Proton wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2023 9:46 pm
This is 39KW. I bought 116. can use 4 for a 12v battery.

Interesting, which BMS are you planning? And will it be a 96s (with extras being spares)?

Open inverter BMS. I have one BMS for now and trying to learn some canbus.
For batteries I have 116. planing to use 112s for the car and 4 of them for a 12v battery .
112 / 16 = 7 BMS-es

The only thing I do not like is the bolts that hold the buss bars; they are M3. (Not good) The bus bars are 1.5mm x 12 mm wide. The batteries I currently have in my solar system have M10 bolts. That is a big difference. So this batteries will probably end up in my solar system in the future.

Those are the batteries I was thinking about getting for my Nissan D21. Do you still think they are worth it for a starter battery pack in my project, or should I look for batteries with better bus bar bolts?

Sector7e wrote: ↑Sun Sep 03, 2023 9:51 pm Those are the batteries I was thinking about getting for my Nissan D21. Do you still think they are worth it for a starter battery pack in my project, or should I look for batteries with better bus bar bolts?

They will work but the 160Ah have M6 bolt which is more sturdier.
For these batteries I have to make a box the keep them in place and does not let them move around to loosen the bus-bars. I have an infrared camera I I will monitor the bus-bars to make sure they do not get lose and heat up.