openinverter forum

Still WIP. The LDU has sprung a leak (famous early Tesla Model S problem) and I'm dropping it out for repair next week. Meanwhile, the Lapp disconnects have been dribbling in: one more will ship in April. And like that.

Did you figure out where to tie into the DC pack voltage?

Arlin wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2024 3:57 am Did you figure out where to tie into the DC pack voltage?

See Post 1, "New HVJB, Part 2".

I'll be pushing power back to the battery via the leads that run from the HV pack to the LDU. 50kw max.

Hmm interesting. I will follow this close. I need to read it again. But will ask one question. Which is to charge it sounds like you plan to have the vehicle on in "Ready" Or do you plan to do it VIA the signal from the AC charger? And do you know if in either case the Rav 4 will get angry when that much current is going into the batter?

As with QCC's JDemo, the car will have to be in Ready mode, as the BMS controls the contactors and the BMS will only close them when its happy. QCC's contractor was unable to persuade the BMS to close the contactors without being in Ready, though I'm planning on looking at this independently; as the BMS closes the contactors for AC charging, it ought to be possible to spoof AC charging and supply DC. That's the point of the minicontroller-based "golem" I mention upthread: an OBC replacement for CAN msgs related to AC charging.

I believe it was Alex @ QCC that mentions in a YT vid that when they tried to push >50kw to the battery in Ready mode, the BMS was unhappy and opened the contactors. I am installing DCFC wiring that can handle >50kw but I am quite satisfied if I "only" have 50kw peak DCFC.

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Ricky's CCS1 charging taps the LDU leads by using post extensions at the LDU, but otherwise is quite similar to what I'm planning (other than his charge inlet is in front). He's been CCS1 charging his RAV4 EV for several months now. There are issues, but it does work, mostly.

asavage wrote: ↑Mon Jul 24, 2023 1:19 am
Install new DCFC leads (charge port to new HVJB)

• Install new HVDC leads from charge port's leads to HVJB location
  • May involve dropping the HV battery (840 lbs) a few inches
  • Possibly, the leads may be run down the unused trans/driveshaft tunnel

I had the nearly-ubiquitous HV contactor failure to which so many early Tesla Model S/X and RAV4 EVs have succumbed, so I was forced to drop the battery pack to replace both of them, and my HV battery dehumidifier (yes, it has one) had a failed air pump only a couple of months before. Since the pack had to come down anyway, it was a good time to run the 50mm² shielded cabling from the area in front of the battery pack, to the rear bumper (storage for the excess, until the charge inlet is installed).

There's a cavernous space in the Gen2 RAV4 EV, in front of the HV battery and behind the LDU, above the steering rack, it's huge, so I'm leaving a couple slack feet of cable there, with sealed ends.

Looking rearward at the top of the HV battery: Looking straight up, HV battery at bottom of pic, plastic LDU wiring support at top of pic: With the battery removed, looking forward: That's bad lighting, but the space for a HVJB is there.

Here's a ten-second tour of the zip-tie job of the cables, from (future) HVJB to front or LR wheel well.

I'll get the HV battery reinstalled, and this excess rear cable mounted in the wheel well and down to the rear bumper, next week, when it stops raining.