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Can I borrow I might wait until I've got the prop shortened and welded. Nowhere local will do a BMW shaft though :S They can't balance them they say. Found one place that'll give it a go, but can't balance and want over £150-200 + VAT to do so

Episode 3

I've pulled the transmission back out now I've measured up for the prop, and started the task of wiring it up.
So it turns out the inverter needs powering on after the zombie or communications wont work.

And I've just collected my reworked propshaft, was £130 + VAT, so £156.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2023 11:49 am
And I've just collected my reworked propshaft, was £130 + VAT, so £156.
IMG_20231207_110808291.jpeg

That's a good price was that unbalanced?

Yep, seems no where can/will balance a prop with guibos.

Got my shortened propshaft back, and the rear mount positioning. I'll add more strength and clean up and paint etc once the front is done.

Front mounts now taking the weight of the transmission. Couldn't resist throwing the inverter in and a battery module. Need to still to beef up the mounts and paint before I can call them done.

Hi jamie tried replying on youtube but it kept dissapearing (maybe because of the link) this is mine
viewtopic.php?p=62133#p62133

I've got my inverter mount/locking plate now finished and painted in hammerite.
Started wiring zombie into the car. Car is now coded as automatic, coded the Kombi, CAS and FRM. So my dash now shows the selected gear, but the FRM isn't turning on the reverse light unless I ground the manual transmission sensor wire. So unless I figure out why it's not working via can, I'll use a relay to ground it triggered by the R output from the GS450h selector.
Engine mounts still same for minute, but will beef up when working on battery mounting.

I think I'll tackle the vacuum pump next, then replace oil pump bearings and fill it up.

Still not sure where to put the outlander charger. Maybe where the fuel tank was? Want to avoid taking up prime battery space up front.

So this last week I've replaced the steering rack with the electric one, it just worked with the can messages zombie outputs for the E65, just needed the can wires attaching and the other one to pin 7 on the ECU connector.

I've taken the oil pump off to replace the bearings, though they don't look in too bad shape, but it's out now so will still replace them.

I've wired in the inverter and spun the prop from the throttle. Still got the mg1 + mg2 temp sensors to wire up, along with the oil pump PWM. Once I've put oil in I'll be bolting the prop to the diff and spinning the wheels.

I've now got reverse.light working, no matter how I tried coding the FRM and CAS to automatic, it wouldn't come on with just can. So I've used a relay, triggered by the 12v from the reverse switch to ground the reverse sense wire.

I invested £10 in a tarp for a drier working environment

All this will be in video form tomorrow in YouTube of you want to double up on the dullness.

Next up, probably more wiring. Brake boost installing. Oil filling and wheel turning. Then I guess I need to start thinking about battery boxes.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2024 8:50 pm So this last week I've replaced the steering rack with the electric one, it just worked with the can messages zombie outputs for the E65, just needed the can wires attaching and the other one to pin 7 on the ECU connector.

1) What electromechanical steering rack fits to the E91. From what year and model is it?

2) To me it seems like the car has very complex ignition key system with start button. How will you get the system running without engine ECU?

3) How you code those BMW control units and stuff, what devices are needed to do that?

The same rack apparently in 1 series and 3 series, didn't actually need coding, but I guess if I want to change the level of assistance it would. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2018604

It has the CAS system but it's not a problem. It's puts it's state on the can bus, Zombieverter picks this up and acts accordingly, still got a couple of minor gripes to address, but car happily thinks the engine is running when start pressed and the rack comes to life.

Forgot to post the last episode.

Anyway, since then, I've managed to repair the damaged thread in the oil pump housing, by using a helicoil type insert.

Forgot to post past video:


Also just posting my notes here for working out how I'm going to plumb in the AC

Using Outlander Compressor the fittings are:

#4 15.3mm port to 11.5mm hose I.D.
#5 18mm port to 14mm hose I.D.
The measurements for the existing hoses on the BMW, which uses a strange port that I cannot find on Aliexpress
Evaporator to compressor:
Flex hose is 24mm O.D, 22 ID
Alu tube is 23mm O.D

Compressor to condenser/drier:
Flex hose is 21mm O.D 23mm ID
Alu tube is 13mm O.D

Current plan is to buy a new E90 condenser/drier and new expansion value. Somehow flush the evaporator and somehow adapt the lines to fit the outlander compressor and then flush those too. Will need to workout what to do after that

Yes, I am thinking about this to avoiding going out in the cold to actually work on the car in the cold and wet.

My battery pack has arrived. Need to get some can logs and label up the wiring before working out how to cram it all under the bonnet 36kWh 33 usable from a Renault Kangoo

Nice layout. Got some weights and dimensions for us?

Modules are roughly 14x21x31 cm 16kg each.

added: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Batteries#OEM_modules
Assuming 8s

Not checked, but assuming it is 8s modules

Can't workout how to create a wiki page, so dumping here for now.

The pack has 2 low voltage connectors, a black and a grey. [insert mating part numbers]

It only has one contactor, rated at 150a and a pre charge relay. No negative contactor.

There's a service disconnect (I'm missing the plug if anyone has one available)

There's a 275a mid pack fuse and also a 275a fuse in the contactor box. In there it looks file a field effect current sensor also.

The grey connector has 4 connections (even though its a 12 way connector)
Yellow becomes Black/Red this connects to the BMS
Blue becomes Black/Green this connects to the BMS
White becomes Green/Red this connects to the contactor box (connects to both precharge and contactor coils)
Black becomes Brown and connects to the BMS

The Black connector also a 12 way, but only 4 pins
Red becomes Black this connects to the BMS
Black becomes Red this connects to the BMS
Green becomes Red/Blue this connects to contactor coil
Blue becomes Green/White this connects to precharge coil

Bigpie wrote: ↑Wed Jan 31, 2024 7:29 pm The Black connector also a 12 way, but only 4 pins
Red becomes Black this connects to the BMS
Black becomes Red this connects to the BMS

Well you see why their old slogan was "Renault. Créative d'automobiles."

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Renault_Kangoo_36 I've started documenting the pack as I go.

are you going to build a box for the batteries or any cooling ?