openinverter forum

Gregski wrote: ↑Sat Mar 16, 2024 6:04 pm then it was time to lay down some dimes,

I can see your using your YouTube millions well

I think we need to put it to a vote we need to change 'gregski's user name to 'super fast gregg'

Do love the pure simplicity of the build, it deffo forfills the requirements of minimum viable product ....
Although normally I don't like the idea of putting the batteries in the crumple zone at the rear the BMW box is built like a tank and can see it being a lot stronger than the rest of the rear structure (ignoring rust effects).

couldn't wait any longer, had to tether the Prius transaxle to the newly installed inverter with the orange jump ropes

Did you really start this last year in secret and now releasing all the footage?

Bigpie wrote: ↑Thu Mar 21, 2024 2:54 pm Did you really start this last year in secret and now releasing all the footage?

ha ha, the only thing I recall doing last year, was seeing this video





the pic below is of the incomplete registration application on the day I bought the car, the seller and I both went in together to make sure everything was copacetic, at that time I still needed to get the VIN (vehicle identification number) verified since the knuckleheads who owned it before me registered it out of state, yet the car never physically left California

Gregski wrote: ↑Thu Mar 21, 2024 3:11 pm the pic below is of the incomplete registration application on the day I bought the car, the seller and I both went in together to make sure everything was copacetic, at that time I still needed to get the VIN (vehicle identification number) verified since the knuckleheads who owned it before me registered it out of state, yet the car never physically left California

people in euro land see the car from the future

seriously have you ben sacked or are you just doing what i was doing till i got told off by the better half and taking very long lunch breaks to work on the car

PS you need to get get sponsorship ...from angle grinder manufacturers

rstevens81 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 21, 2024 4:56 pm PS you need to get get sponsorship ...from angle grinder manufacturers

ha ha, I'll settle for the cut off discs - wonder if Costco sells them?

it's raining out so I'm jumping around a little bit (order be damned!)

Thanks be to Mr. Damien Maguire of the EVBMW.com fame, and all you Reverse Engineers here on openiverter.org


there's 5 ways to power this thing up, and here's one of them, just a dime a dozen 9 volt battery - luv it !

the blue thing is a WiFi card

sourced from AliExpress FCI 56 Pin/Way Female And Male ECU Connector Plug With 18AWG 3 Meters Full Wire Cable With Shell 211PC562S8009 211PC562S0008 $90 bucks

soldering on the 56 pin header connector

Fun Level: -2

beer makes everything better

Tell me the wife is out of the house, without telling me the wife is out of the house...

Gregski wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2024 7:50 pm soldering on the 56 pin header connector
Fun Level: -2

soldering though hole components is a doddle after soldering smd
just get good leaded solder and its fine, just dont try and buy it from rs components apparently it restricted to professionals as i might eat leaded solder

edit:

Gregski wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2024 7:54 pm Tell me the wife is out of the house, without telling me the wife is out of the house...

thats the wife warning/capturing device isnt it ?

rstevens81 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2024 7:55 pm soldering though hole components is a doddle after soldering smd

the soldering is the easy part, getting all 56 pins through the holes at the same time is an art


Prius Gen 3 HV Stand Offs DIY EV Conversion







Can't Kill A Toyota Inverter Part 2: Where to connect the HV battery to the Prius inverter.

ZombieVerter VCU Throttle Calibration procedure (starring Mr. Damien Maguire)

minimal wire harness, about to head into the garage for the first spin of the motor

well the first attempt to spin the motor late last night proved UNSUCCESSFUL

- the inverter had power and made the whinny high pitched noise
- Forward signal had 12v
- Zombie VCU Pin #15 had 12v

No ISA current shunt implemented
No BMW sBox implemented
just using a 300 watt 30 volt 10 amp bench power supply for my high voltage battery pack (this worked on the Lexus GS450h)

You get into run mode? Also what version are you using?

tom91 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 3:07 pm You get into run mode? Also what version are you using?

thank you Tom, short answer is No, and I should have mentioned the version: 2.05A

here are some screen shots, at first I forgot about the udcmin which was set to 450 volts, I have since changed it to 20 since I am using a 30 volt bench power supply

I do not have a shunt neither the ISA nor the BMW Safety Box at this time, so I set that to na

you need to set UDCsw to 0 to bypass contactors. Please post your full settng download.

You need ignition power this should be the pin 15 you mention, and then also a start signal pin 52 as per diagram linked.
https://openinverter.org/wiki/File:Zomb ... inout2.jpg

tom91 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 4:01 pm you need to set UDCsw to 0 to bypass contactors. Please post your full settng download.

You need ignition power this should be the pin 15 you mention, and then also a start signal pin 52 as per diagram linked.
https://openinverter.org/wiki/File:Zomb ... inout2.jpg

Thanks Tom I will post that in a minute, however I wonder if my problem lies in the inverter connector wiring or lack there of, all I have wired up to it is the 4 sync serial wires and the two grounds and the two 12v wires, nothing else, below the red items are not wired

son of an itch it works !!!

you will not believe what it was






I guess these extension leads offered too much resistance for that little Power Supply


once I removed them and connected the short original bench power supply leads directly to the inverter posts all worked fine

Gregski wrote: ↑Sat Mar 23, 2024 8:16 pmPrius Gen 3 HV Stand Offs DIY EV Conversion

Copper and aluminum exist on opposite ends of the electrochemical scale, and thus when touching, create a battery that powers its own corrosion. It's why we don't do aluminum wiring in houses anymore, and the retrofit option for not tearing it all out is steel conductors inserted to separate them at the wire nuts in every box.

I'd do copper or brass.

Also, iirc Damien had his at 2 different heights so that the ring terminals can't accidentally touch each other if the bolts slip and allow the cables to rotate. That is your + and - straight off of the battery.

Do you have an oxy-ace torch? Poke your finger into some sand mixed with ground up kitty litter, and pour a bar of copper for yourself. Think of all those discarded wires from cannibalized wiring harnesses, they can ferry electrons once again!

In traditional scrapper culture, to honor its spirit, no part, of the buffalo/vehicle, shall be wasted.

Metals supermarket for a brass bar and then drill a hole in it, if you prefer throwing change at the problem.

...

The rattling is normal-ish I think. Seen that a lot. Put some load on it and it stops.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2024 10:20 am Copper and aluminum exist on opposite ends of the electrochemical scale, and thus when touching, create a battery that powers its own corrosion. It's why we don't do aluminum wiring in houses anymore, and the retrofit option for not tearing it all out is steel conductors inserted to separate them at the wire nuts in every box.

I'd do copper or brass.

Also, iirc Damien had his at 2 different heights so that the ring terminals can't accidentally touch each other if the bolts slip and allow the cables to rotate. That is your + and - straight off of the battery.

Do you have an oxy-ace torch? Poke your finger into some sand mixed with ground up kitty litter, and pour a bar of copper for yourself. Think of all those discarded wires from cannibalized wiring harnesses, they can ferry electrons once again!

In traditional scrapper culture, to honor its spirit, no part, of the buffalo/vehicle, shall be wasted.

Metals supermarket for a brass bar and then drill a hole in it, if you prefer throwing change at the problem.

...

The rattling is normal-ish I think. Seen that a lot. Put some load on it and it stops.

below I attempt to Stupidize (TM) the ZombieVerter VCU wiring, presenting just the bare minimum for a first motor spin.


First as documented on the Wiki.


and this is what worked for me for my first spin

Narrative:

• The greenish represents the 4 synchronous serial twisted pair cables that run from the VCU to the OEM Inverter plug, this is what I call the Intelligence Super Highway (well Autobahn on the account of the Rabbit)

• Our input comes from the four wires represented in yellow(ish) that run to the Prius OEM throttle pedal (the pedal actually has 6 wires, two for ground and two for 5 volts).

• Additional input comes from Pin #54 in the form of 12 volts from the regular car battery telling the VCU we want to move Forward.

• The VCU actually needs three power wires represented as two red and one pink wires that go to the battery positive. Pin #56 is 12 volts, Pin #15 delivers 12 volts when the key in the ignition is turned to the ON position. Pin #52 shown in pink delivers momentary 12 volts when the key is turned further to the right to the START position and then springs back to the ON position. (this can be simulated by briefly tapping the battery positive terminal with the bare wire)

• Finally Pin #55 represented in gray runs to the battery negative terminal ie ground.

84 VW MK1 Rabbit ZombieVerter VCU Wire Harness

This is just a WeberAuto video showing how the Gen 3 Prius Transaxle uses the final drive ring gear to lubricate itself by splashing the fluid around