openinverter forum

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Fri May 22, 2020 10:35 pm 49:21 - Battery is not connected to normal battery terminals. Battery terminal measurements. Cap: 20mm diameter across, 6mm head. Shank: Both 16mm diameter, one 30mm long, one 40mm long. Through-hole: 6.5mm diameter. Dimensions not critical, different shank length just to help avoid terminals accidentally shorting.

Trying to learn here, what is the purpose of bypassing the boost/buck converter with the battery power? Reading through this thread and watching the two logic board installation video's, I did not pick up the reasoning.

As shown near the bottom of the wiki:
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... n_Firmware

TheSilverBuick wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 11:13 pmTrying to learn here, what is the purpose of bypassing the boost/buck converter with the battery power? Reading through this thread and watching the two logic board installation video's, I did not pick up the reasoning.

Sorry man, I'm just documenting the timestamps and the instructions, I don't purport to understand all of it.

Part of the reasoning might be that we don't use the Buck/Boost converter for that purpose. The reason it's there is because the Prius has a lower voltage battery pack (it's just a hybrid), so at high speeds it would run the Buck/Boost. However we can just feed the inverter our higher voltage directly if we want to.

Also, we are repurposing the Buck/Boost for other things, like perhaps battery charging. So that might have something to do with it.

But don't take anything I say as gospel, I'm just speculating, I'll let those with deeper understanding fill you in better.

Thanks for your take on it. I've read a lot of your posts and great efforts to get the wiki sorted. I'm pretty green to AC power and electric motor control, so the consolidation of information is helpful.

Your answer supports why I ask. I'm considering running battery voltage around 96v-120v, and run a MGR, boosting voltage as needed. If bypassing the buck/boost renders the feature inoperative for the motor power, then it's not something I want to do.

TheSilverBuick wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 12:37 am Your answer supports why I ask. I'm considering running battery voltage around 96v-120v, and run a MGR, boosting voltage as needed. If bypassing the buck/boost renders the feature inoperative for the motor power, then it's not something I want to do.

As of right now, no one has written software to support using the inverter that way( boost when throttle, buck when regen), but it is possible with the current hardware, but extreme care has to be taken, as I don't believe the buck/boost modules are as bulletproof as the inverter stages. Also, if you choose to use the boost converter in the way that I think you are (Battery ---> Boost ---> Inverter ----> Motor), you will be limited to the power that the boost stage can deliver (27kW).

Hmm, I had not delved into the software yet but was under the impression it was controllable like that. For my specific current project (ATV), I only really need 15-20kw of power, but will have to rethink my battery strategy on voltage and gearing for the motor rpm.

Hi. Does the Prius gen 3 inverter with v1c board need any sort of feedback from battery BMS to run? Will it run off a battery without BMS at all or is configurable to do so? Thanks

A BMS is not required but can be configured, I've not got that far but if anyone else has, please add details to the wiki.

Thatguyoverthere wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 1:49 am As of right now, no one has written software to support using the inverter that way( boost when throttle, buck when regen), but it is possible with the current hardware, but extreme care has to be taken, as I don't believe the buck/boost modules are as bulletproof as the inverter stages.

I asked Johannes about buck/boosting, in regard to throttle/rpm, and he said no plans on this type of control. His suggestion is for field weakening or increase slip settings for more rpm. If I need more speed after trying one of these methods I'll evaluate gearing or battery voltage.

m.art.y wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 5:57 am Hi. Does the Prius gen 3 inverter with v1c board need any sort of feedback from battery BMS to run? Will it run off a battery without BMS at all or is configurable to do so? Thanks

In web interface you can set minimum voltage(UDCMIN), so inverter won't go lower than that. But you need set up voltage reading properly (parameter UDCGAIN, so voltage shown in web interface matching voltage measured by voltmeter on HV battery terminals).

Thank you Damien, I received the control board from evbmw.com
And now I have questions, how to connect the throttle pedal signal, ground and 5 volts, and other sensors to the control board, I just need better explanation of the control board pin out and I’m good to connect the rest of the parts, plus do I solder the tabs next to the white pin to enable the mg1? And I kinda need a better example of the connection out of the control board so I can connect everything to the car, battery and motors

Dylan Witt wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 10:50 pm And now I have questions

have you read the wiki and all linked information?

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board

The wiki doesn't yet have details of throttle connection, temperature sensors etc.

It's a community effort, we're just documenting as we go along. Populate it if and when you've information to add.

poo, okay, so i need to probably add information to it once i figure everything out with my car,

was these complete boards shipped with programming? im not getting any indications leds, but i do have the distinct whine

Instructions on the wiki, you'll need to put a bootloader on and then the firmware for the STM32 chip. My wifi module did come with the software on it, but yours may not. You'll have to look for a wifi ESP* and connect to it.

Dylan Witt wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:00 am was these complete boards shipped with programming?

"Boards will also be supplied programmed"

https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-w ... ted-boards

I don't think that's the case anymore Kevin, mine wasn't supplied programmed, but I did add instructions to the wiki on how to program and verify.

The boards are sold without support, you've got to use the community provided resources or figure it out. I've had a Skype call with another buyer so we can figure things out when stumped. It would be nice if each board was supplied with a Damien, but I don't think those can be made cheaply in China yet...

Boards purchased as part of a full kit are supplied programmed. Partial boards are unprogrammed.

i think all that is left would be a introduction video showing the programming and were set.

I'll try to post my wiring guide to the wiki tonight. Got held up because my username doesn't work with the wiki!

Right - have added my edits to the wiki on the wiring guide. Hope this helps Dylan. Would really appreciate someone checking them as a) this is my first edit to the wiki and b) I may have had wine...

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board

Right - have added my edits to the wiki on the wiring guide. Hope this helps Dylan. Would really appreciate someone checking them as a) this is my first edit to the wiki and b) I may have had wine...

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board

[PS apologies if this appears twice. I had to register a new id in order to access the wiki and initially posted this with the new id]

thank you Bobby

Not to voluntell anyone, but on the pinout table, it would be helpful to have them numbered, and then an accompanying image showing the actual connector and the pins on it numbered so there can be no confusion.

got the board working, wiring mistake, i tested before installing in car and it worked, but now i need wifi pass word