openinverter forum

DO NOT remove the solder blob. I love the way people have such little faith in me. Those 2 pins are meant to be connected.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Fri Jul 24, 2020 6:41 am DO NOT remove the solder blob. I love the way people have such little faith in me. Those 2 pins are meant to be connected.

I have a LOT of faith in you That is why I asked before acting. Just didn't want to disturb you with PM.

I wished someone had good parameters for the gen three inverter, I’ve depleted my 78 volt battery more than eight times trying to tune it to the Camry/Avalon transaxle, with little success on the spinning

Got free time to figure out 35 pin plug wiring, and came to conclusion that this plate design is "no-go": There is simply no room for IDC headers. So for 3D printing good design is outward facing plate, or flat plate if material is sturdy enough or it is milled from some hard plastic insteard of 3D printed.
Here is DXF drawing for flat plate for CNC milling. Keep in mind that recommended maximum plate thickness is no more than 4mm in area where 35way header is located(for correct installing).

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 25, 2020 9:24 pm Got free time to figure out 35 pin plug wiring, and came to conclusion that this plate design is "no-go":
283.png
There is simply no room for IDC headers. So for 3D printing good design is outward facing plate, or flat plate if material is sturdy enough or it is milled from some hard plastic insteard of 3D printed.
Here is DXF drawing for flat plate for CNC milling. Keep in mind that recommended maximum plate thickness is no more than 4mm in area where 35way header is located(for correct installing).
gen3 header plate.zip

Did you see my designs over here Konstantin? This works well.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=836

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sun Jul 26, 2020 9:13 am Did you see my designs over here Konstantin? This works well.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=836

Yes, your plate looks like my second design, when I added offset to add up integrity, because flat plate being bent by gasket . I have no 3D printer, yet I've got some 5 mm thick bakelite and textolite, and some instruments

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Fri Jul 24, 2020 6:41 am DO NOT remove the solder blob. I love the way people have such little faith in me. Those 2 pins are meant to be connected.

Will this bridge present on every board you ship? If yes, I'll add picture to wiki for other watchful customers

No its fixed now.

Does anyone know what everything means on the FOC web interface? Like the description of like tmpm I know this is temperature of the motor, but like the other stuff i can’t really figure out, this would help me tune the motor better. I have no ideal what it means.

Dylan Witt wrote: ↑Tue Jul 28, 2020 5:36 pm Does anyone know what everything means on the FOC web interface? Like the description of like tmpm I know this is temperature of the motor, but like the other stuff i can’t really figure out, this would help me tune the motor better. I have no ideal what it means.

Not watched the video yet but have you seen this on the Wiki? https://openinverter.org/wiki/Parameters

Between that and the (very short) FOC setup guide it seems to cover the key ones that you might need to change.

Are you getting a clean signal out of your resolver?

Smooth signal, as far as I can tell, yeah the wiki doesn’t go into detail to better explain things to me, completely new to this, I’ve researched for awhile before even attempting the conversion, then got a hold of a gen three inverter and decided to buy the board for it, although I have a Lexus is300h inverter, plus a gen two inverter to play with, I bought the control board for the gen three because of the availability and plug and play setup

has anyone ever had one of those moments where you suddenly understand something? well either someone is helping me understand the openinverter software or i have over looked everything on the WIKI motor parameters, now since i know i have several things to change on my motor i should have it responding better to throttle input and not over amp-ing. lets see if this will run. going outside in a moment to try the settings again.

Awesome! Let's hope it works better

Question about flashing the bootloader on the Atmega328P. Just hooked up an Arduino Uno to the board via the ICSP pins and tried burning a bootloader but got an error of 'Invalid Device Signature'.

Do I need to add a specific board profile or should the Nano/Duemilanove board setting (ones with a 328P) work?

Ta.

I have always struggled with burning bootloaders on non arduino manufactured boards. What I use is an ATMEL ICE programmer and atmel studio to manually set the required fuses then manually burn the bootloader to memory. Pain in the neck but its the only thing that works reliably for me.

I've also struggled with the bootloader on Atmega, only have Uno for ISP or USBTinyASP. I've got the nuclear option at the ready with a new chip with the bootloader already on it if all else fails.

Does the ICE programmer use the 12v reset to set the fuses?

OK, I've got a little package from RS components(they send to Belarus ) Few connectors and AMPSEAL 35 way socket.
I've soldered it to V1C adapter plate. One thing I didn't get is "notch position". It makes no sense. IDC plug always have first contact at a bottom no matter how you flip it. So all you need is to connect that ribbon cable to IDC plug so it remain straight, not twisted. And IDC connector being at the bottom and AMPSEAL 35 way connector at the top Anyway, there is no room for adapter plate with connectors attached inside the inverter. So anyone who willing to use AMPSEAL connector and install it correctly(so inverter case remain sealed) will need to use adapter plate housing, with outward offset. Because flush housing is "no-go" as well.
Also IDC header on the control board is placed with little offset to the right if you watch at it from outside. To prevent damage of ribbon cable, I've added this right offset to a new housing design.
The only thing you need to do is to grind off two angles 5x5mm on the right side of the adapter plate This is needed to be able to place some silicone gasket to maintain sealing. As before, design must be checked, but I've got no 3D printer.
STL model attached in ZIP file:

This looks really nice but I'm confused! The one I knocked up with a second plate behind it fits perfectly? And you don't need to cut the adaptor plate. You could add some ridges/valleys to that for extra sealing but other than that I don't see the advantage of this design?

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 9:20 am This looks really nice but I'm confused! The one I knocked up with a second plate behind it fits perfectly? And you don't need to cut the adaptor plate. You could add some ridges/valleys to that for extra sealing but other than that I don't see the advantage of this design?

I've tried to fit it in the middle and ribbon cable was bending sideways, maybe it is because it is too short, if you make it longer and set so it form a loop, it won't bend. As I've said earlier I have got no 3d printer to be 100% sure about this designs.

konstantin, have you tried adding a bootloader to the ATMEGA yet? Any chance you could document your steps if you do?

Bigpie wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 1:29 pm konstantin, have you tried adding a bootloader to the ATMEGA yet? Any chance you could document your steps if you do?

Not yet, is there firmware for charger available already? I'm not interested in charging for now, I need to make motor control work at first. Haven't got much free time for now, need to work to be able to buy lithium

There's some software by celeron555 for charging, but I've used it as a base for some software to buck/boost as required to enable the DC DC without resistor mod, but I'm struggling with getting a boot loader on there to test it, I only have a 72v pack while I'm playing around.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 11:18 am

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 9:20 am This looks really nice but I'm confused! The one I knocked up with a second plate behind it fits perfectly? And you don't need to cut the adaptor plate. You could add some ridges/valleys to that for extra sealing but other than that I don't see the advantage of this design?

I've tried to fit it in the middle and ribbon cable was bending sideways, maybe it is because it is too short, if you make it longer and set so it form a loop, it won't bend. As I've said earlier I have got no 3d printer to be 100% sure about this designs.

Gotcha - my ribbon cable is perhaps too long but does loop nicely so doesn't foul the inside.

What is normal current consumption for the board itself without any load? That smoked board consumes 1,7A from 11V power supply. It also makes audible whining noise with its capacitors. Is it normal?

Yep. at 11v it will consume a bit more that at say 14v due to switching psus. Remember you are also running the Toyota gate drive power supplies. when pwm comes on expect about 2amps.