openinverter forum

Thank you! Now I know why my little lipo battery suddenly died when I tried to start PWM.
Anyway, I've tested the smoked board and the smoked Inverter with two motors at once, and surprisingly they worked. Expectedly mg1 span weaker then mg2

Sweet. Seems even blowing up the inverter around it wasnt enough to kill a JLCPCB board:)

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Tue Aug 04, 2020 2:33 pm Sweet. Seems even blowing up the inverter around it wasnt enough to kill a JLCPCB board:)

Honestly, that wasn't smoke that scared me the most, but this moment did:

LoL, same! Awesome to see it working.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Jul 18, 2020 5:45 pm Good shout @PatrykS - it is indeed 16MHz in software and 8MHz crystal. Will tweak and test again.

Weird that it worked fine in the test with the same error though.

When error is the same in Arduino and ESP they communicate well with each other, but with half the speed - 250kbps. Problem arises when one of them is trying to communicate with some real 500kbps device

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Jul 18, 2020 5:45 pm EDIT: That did it! Thank you.

Great

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Aug 01, 2020 8:16 am Question about flashing the bootloader on the Atmega328P. Just hooked up an Arduino Uno to the board via the ICSP pins and tried burning a bootloader but got an error of 'Invalid Device Signature'.

Do I need to add a specific board profile or should the Nano/Duemilanove board setting (ones with a 328P) work?

Ta.

Did you wired UNO correctly? Are you able to burn bootloader on another UNO with it?
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

Nano setting should work.

I'm using USBasp with AVRdude and with Arduino IDE - it's cheap and works great.

PatrykS wrote: ↑Tue Aug 04, 2020 8:40 pm

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Aug 01, 2020 8:16 am Question about flashing the bootloader on the Atmega328P. Just hooked up an Arduino Uno to the board via the ICSP pins and tried burning a bootloader but got an error of 'Invalid Device Signature'.

Do I need to add a specific board profile or should the Nano/Duemilanove board setting (ones with a 328P) work?

Ta.

Did you wired UNO correctly? Are you able to burn bootloader on another UNO with it?
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

Nano setting should work.

I'm using USBasp with AVRdude and with Arduino IDE - it's cheap and works great.

Good shout - I'll test it with another one tomorrow. Not done this for a while.

I failed to get the boot loader installed and took the nuclear option, bought an atmega with the bootloader already installed and now just programming it over serial.

If someone could add instructions to the wiki when they've got the steps to get the bootloader on, that would be great for future users.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 04, 2020 1:20 pm Thank you! Now I know why my little lipo battery suddenly died when I tried to start PWM.
Anyway, I've tested the smoked board and the smoked Inverter with two motors at once, and surprisingly they worked. Expectedly mg1 span weaker then mg2

Nice going konstantin8818!!!!

So I tested my Uno with other Arduinos and didn't have any issues uploading bootloader. At the very least I was getting a signature back when tested with some dodgy Pro Mini knockoffs.

With the board though I just get a 0x000000 signature. Normally I'd think this was bad connections but I've tested continuity from the Arduino pins to the board.

Any suggestions short of @Bigpie's nuclear 328-replacement option welcome!

If all else fails, I can bring out the big guns on yours too.

I've been playing with the buck boost. I've bucked from DC bus 2 to DC bus 1 by PWM on pin 10. I'm assuming to boost from 2 to 1 it isn't as simple as PWM on pin 9 instead?

any way of sending me a parameter for the Toyota gen three inverter running a Toyota trans axle assembly? like lexus gs450h, is600h? just something i can use to drive the wheels of my conversion? im stuck in a position where i have basically wanted to take a torch to the entire car, rewired the inverter and Mazda wiring to control the inverter, ignition, +12 volt, grounds, +5volts, throttle, brake switch. leaving out cruise for now, even ordered 8 five volt relays to send power to my battery contractors. i am just asking for parameters someone has already written and tested, something i can use to fine tune to my car.. Prius gen three inverter and toyota avalon hybrid transaxle, same as the camry hybrid transaxle up to 2012 and avalon up to 2015

The params I'm using are below. They are for the FOC firmware and for a 5 pole pair perm mag motor. It spins nicely on the bench.

I will try it, it has been raining and storming here for a few days, tropical storm has finally reached me in the mountains, I’ll try your parameters as soon as I get a few minutes of clear weather

Current Sensors, GEN-Two, Gen Three, IS300H inverters. i was looking around at the gen Two inverter, Gen Three and is300h inverter, the current sensors on the Gen-Two are on Two and Three Phase, Gen-Three is One and Three phase, is300h are Two and Three Phase. its interesting that they change the phase sensors like that. just for anyone that wasnt for sure about the sensors

I'm still not having any joy programming the 328 via the ICSP header. @PatrykS did you say you had it working with USBasp and this board?

If anyone else has a minute I'd appreciate it if you could test it and see what you get. Do you at least get a device signature back when trying to program it with an Arduino or USBasp? I've tried it rewiring it and still get 0x000000.

After testing smoked board with sine software to make sure it works, I've calibrated current sensors. Did it with power supply, 50w light bulb and clamp multimeter. Despite it is cheap multimeter, I guess mistake of ±0,5A is acceptable. The only thing that bothers me is those ±20A current peaks: Could it be caused by light bulb or bad contact? Power supply is Eltek smps 1000, it is really accurate and sturdy, so current peaks are not caused by it. il1 and il2 gain set to 3,59 in my case.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 6:31 amI'm still not having any joy programming the 328 via the ICSP header. @PatrykS did you say you had it working with USBasp and this board?

No, I used USBasp with another AVR boards (Arduino between others).

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 6:31 am I'm still not having any joy programming the 328 via the ICSP header. @PatrykS did you say you had it working with USBasp and this board?

If anyone else has a minute I'd appreciate it if you could test it and see what you get. Do you at least get a device signature back when trying to program it with an Arduino or USBasp? I've tried it rewiring it and still get 0x000000.

For me, on the Yaris board, my chinese USBasp worked right away with zero issues whatsoever. I think I programmed the Nano bootloader, but that shouldn't matter. You should definitely be getting back a valid device signature regardless of almost any parameters you can set in the Arduino IDE or avrdude. Have you checked continuity from each of the ISP connector pins to the atmega328 pins? Do you have correct voltage at the VCC pin? Is your USBasp able to program other boards?

I’m in need of some help, the P314 transaxle I’m using in my mazda rx8 build has a motor reduction gear set along side the generator gear set, they are not in sync, 1.05-1 generator to motor gearing, I can’t weld the plant gears cause then the generator will be turning at about 2.80 times as fast as the traction motor, so what I will be doing is locking the input shaft, but now the timing is off between the two motors, I need to know if there is a way to Add a second sin/cos resolver input on the control board chip.

I've made first progerss with FOC software and Lexus MGR Q211.
MY PROCEDURE:
1)Calibrated il1, il2, udc.
2) Make sure resolver is set as "resolver", respolepairs i've sat as 1, and when turn output schaft by hand I've seen this picture: 2)Started inverter with push botton, chose forward direction, then pressed "manual mode" in web interface.
3)syncofs is 0, and started to add manualid, motor startedd to jitter, and started to somehow spin only with manualid at 70A my battery can only provide 170A, does this mean that I have not reach rated_motor_current/2, or it has nothing common with my battery pack and only represent motor parameters? Who knows any info about Lexus MGR Q211?
QUESTION: what is considered as rated_motor_current? for Lexus RX400h MGR for example, as it is rated 50kW at maximum 650V.
So, anyway, MGR listens to gas pedal It jitters, but spins.

It became more smooth when I've set polepairs and respolepaisr to 3... aand then Toyota engineers broke the party, they said it was too hot in there

The motor current is not the same as the battery current, at standstill or with low frequency the motor current is mutch higher than the battery current. You have a low voltage and hight current at the motor, as it works like a buck converter.

For the resolver of the MGR I used polpairs=4 and respolpairs=2 that should be the right value, it works althougt with polpairs=2 and respolpairs=1, then will be the revcounter wrong, but it works.

ManualID should be high if syncofs is OK, as told in the software setup. I expect 70A as rated motor current will be fine. As higher the manualid value to rotate the motor is, as nearer it is on the optimal point. With the right connection to the motor my value for syncofs was around 0 so it should be fine.

In the next step you should change manualid = 0.1 and test with a low value for manualiq.

For safty reason you should be ready to switch off forward/reverse switch.

Martin1775 wrote: ↑Thu Aug 13, 2020 7:27 pm For safty reason you should be ready to switch off forward/reverse switch.

Thank you for suggestions. Hopefully tomorrow I'll find small radiator to make liquid cooling and perform fine tuning.
I'm working with pinswap1-3, when I changed it to "none" and set manualid to only 5Amps, it started literrally jumping so hard, inverter shut down by itself=)

Before inverter overheated again, I've managed to spin MGR smoothly, but only in reverse direction. On the video it is clearly seen when motor hits rev limiter. But when I switch it in forward, when I touch accelerator, motor runs away, or atleast tries
Motor tuned and connected precisely as Martin1775 suggested. I'll make water cooling and will play with syncofs now.

much better:)