openinverter forum

Just to let folks know due to non stock of the SAM3X processor and a seeimg worldwide shortage of the 40 pin ME-MX connector header I have discontinued the kits and board for the GS450H vcu in the webshop. If stock improves in the next few weeks I will of course look at it again but in any event the Zombieverter VCU will replace this and the Leaf VCU asap. All current orders are in the process of being fulfilled.

Update - SOLVED: If anyone else has the same issue.There is a form for this on the home > board index page called web interface. After 2 hours of going back in forth between YT videos and this sub thread I realized the wifi part is part of a larger project encompassing other car versions (so there is little to no info after olimex/wifi module in this thread).

Hi, can someone give me a quick recap of how the wifi works on this project. I ordered the Olimex MOD-WIFI-ESP8266 version of esp8266. I take it I need to flash my module with the GS450H_WiFi_V1.ino file?

Before I get to that part I have few more basic question I can’t seem to find in the documentation or videos. Is the Olimex module supposed to create an ad hoc wifi network or connect to my local network? In a video I see 192.168.4.1 being used but I’ve also seen the device used on the road. I assume they did not drag around external router to make it for demo.

Skeptical wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 9:46 pm Update - SOLVED: If anyone else has the same issue.There is a form for this on the home > board index page called web interface. After 2 hours of going back in forth between YT videos and this sub thread I realized the wifi part is part of a larger project encompassing other car versions (so there is little to no info after olimex/wifi module in this thread).

Hi, can someone give me a quick recap of how the wifi works on this project. I ordered the Olimex MOD-WIFI-ESP8266 version of esp8266. I take it I need to flash my module with the GS450H_WiFi_V1.ino file?

Before I get to that part I have few more basic question I can’t seem to find in the documentation or videos. Is the Olimex module supposed to create an ad hoc wifi network or connect to my local network? In a video I see 192.168.4.1 being used but I’ve also seen the device used on the road. I assume they did not drag around external router to make it for demo.

Have you been able to program your Olimex to work and tested it? I've still been unsuccessful in programming either of the two modules I have.

Yeah. No update here. I'm also unable to compile or locate pre-compiled SPIFFS binaries that are needed to flash the GS450H VCU Web-interface onto a new ESP8266 board. I've been searching for two weeks. If anyone out there is reading this who can help, please do! There are at least 3 individuals in this thread with the same problem. Anyone? Please upload the two binaries needed to flash an ESP8266 with the web-interface.

Bassmobile wrote: ↑Sat Apr 24, 2021 6:50 pm Yeah. No update here. I'm also unable to compile or locate pre-compiled SPIFFS binaries that are needed to flash the GS450H VCU Web-interface onto a new ESP8266 board. I've been searching for two weeks. If anyone out there is reading this who can help, please do! There are at least 3 individuals in this thread with the same problem. Anyone? Please upload the two binaries needed to flash an ESP8266 with the web-interface.

Bassmobile,

have you looked through the ESP thread? I went through flashing the ESP. See viewtopic.php?p=21478#p21478 and viewtopic.php?p=21543#p21543

I have the links in those threads where I got the files on Damien's github and how I saved the folders.

Bassmobile wrote: ↑Sat Apr 24, 2021 6:50 pm Yeah. No update here. I'm also unable to compile or locate pre-compiled SPIFFS binaries that are needed to flash the GS450H VCU Web-interface onto a new ESP8266 board. I've been searching for two weeks. If anyone out there is reading this who can help, please do! There are at least 3 individuals in this thread with the same problem. Anyone? Please upload the two binaries needed to flash an ESP8266 with the web-interface.

I think I was able to get it working on ESP-12E. If I'm able to confirm it's good and have the time I'll make a in-depth post to help other current and future users out. As the current posts are apparently lacking in some way as others (myself included) could not get it working. Is very apparent after an in-depth read through this blog most users issue revolve around the use of the olimex module. So it makes a lot of sense just not to use it imo.

Bassmobile I'm not sure if this is what your after but can't you just run damienmaguire/Lexus-GS450H-Inverter-Controller on github following the instruction on the form and just export the binaries from the Arduino ide? If that's the case and you don't want to go through the hassle (other people please don't ask me) dm and I'll send you the binaries as I already have everything installed and setup.

Ok lets just all slow down a bit here before we go off bringing even more variables into the mix. What annoys me here is that we have the folks and knowledge in the community to help out but its left on me once again. So here goes :

Part 1 : Lets all use the same software and ide.
https://www.arduino.cc/en/software
I've tested this on 1.8.13 so go ahead and grab that and install.
Next you will need to add the ESP8266 to your boards manager.
Tutorial here : https://randomnerdtutorials.com/how-to- ... duino-ide/
Go ahead and do that.
Download the wifi package from my Github :
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus- ... aster/WiFi
Copy it to your arduino sketch directory. Close and reopen arduino, go to file, sketchbook and it should show up.
Go ahead and open it.
Now you need the correct libraries which is where the fun starts as they are a hot mess in arduino these days.
I uploaded mine to the repo :
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus- ... /Libraries
Grab those and unzip both files to your /Arduino/libraries directory.
Next up go to tools and setup your board exactly as shown in the picture.
Close and reopen arduino then hit the tick box to compile. If you did everything right it will just compile.

Part 2 : Lets all use the same programming method.
You will need a 3v3 level ftdi cable :
https://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/FTD ... FcejHp0Q==
Yes you can use others, no I have no idea if they will work. This is the one I use.
Wire it as per the the attached diagram.
Now, to program the module you need to desolder the GPIO0 jumper and move it to the "0" position.
Back to tools and select your com port.
Click the upload icon (right facing arrow).
When upload is done, unplug and replug the wifi module from the ftdi cable but do not unplug the usb end from the computer.
BAck to tools and click "esp8266 sketch data upload".
when done remove the module and resolder the GPIO0 jumper back to position "1".
Congratulations its now programmed.

YES THERE ARE 50 OTHER WAYS TO DO THIS BUT THIS IS WORKING ON MY SETUP (2 DIFFERENT PCS) SO ITS WHAT I RECOMMEND.

I have added the option of buying a wifi module to the webshop :
https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-w ... fi-progged

I'll preempt the inevitable "I can buy these for $5 from olimex, your an a$$hole" comments.

1)Purchase cost per module in group of 10 : 5.50
2)Paypal help themselves to another 5
3)Postage (packing free) 15. Yes of course I could use a cheaper option but we all know what happens then ...
4) Damien banks 25 euros towards Lanzarote retirement and gets back to work on the Zombieverter.
5)Everyone lives happily ever after.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:33 am I have added the option of buying a wifi module to the webshop :
https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-w ... fi-progged

I'll preempt the inevitable "I can buy these for $5 from olimex, your an a$$hole" comments.

1)Purchase cost per module in group of 10 : 5.50
2)Paypal help themselves to another 5
3)Postage (packing free) 15. Yes of course I could use a cheaper option but we all know what happens then ...
4) Damien banks 25 euros towards Lanzarote retirement and gets back to work on the Zombieverter.
5)Everyone lives happily ever after.

I, for one, think you're brilliant and will happily pay 50 euro (and just did) for one! Thanks so much. A neighbor kid was able to get a different wifi module to work with my VCU, but since I already have the handy wifi header soldered to my board, I'd like to use it. Thanks again.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:18 am Ok lets just all slow down a bit here before we go off bringing even more variables into the mix. What annoys me here is that we have the folks and knowledge in the community to help out but its left on me once again. So here goes :

Part 1 : Lets all use the same software and ide.
https://www.arduino.cc/en/software
I've tested this on 1.8.13 so go ahead and grab that and install.
Next you will need to add the ESP8266 to your boards manager.
Tutorial here : https://randomnerdtutorials.com/how-to- ... duino-ide/
Go ahead and do that.
Download the wifi package from my Github :
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus- ... aster/WiFi
Copy it to your arduino sketch directory. Close and reopen arduino, go to file, sketchbook and it should show up.
Go ahead and open it.
Now you need the correct libraries which is where the fun starts as they are a hot mess in arduino these days.
I uploaded mine to the repo :
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus- ... /Libraries
Grab those and unzip both files to your /Arduino/libraries directory.
Next up go to tools and setup your board exactly as shown in the picture.
Close and reopen arduino then hit the tick box to compile. If you did everything right it will just compile.

Part 2 : Lets all use the same programming method.
You will need a 3v3 level ftdi cable :
https://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/FTD ... FcejHp0Q==
Yes you can use others, no I have no idea if they will work. This is the one I use.
Wire it as per the the attached diagram.
Now, to program the module you need to desolder the GPIO0 jumper and move it to the "0" position.
Back to tools and select your com port.
Click the upload icon (right facing arrow).
When upload is done, unplug and replug the wifi module from the ftdi cable but do not unplug the usb end from the computer.
BAck to tools and click "esp8266 sketch data upload".
when done remove the module and resolder the GPIO0 jumper back to position "1".
Congratulations its now programmed.

YES THERE ARE 50 OTHER WAYS TO DO THIS BUT THIS IS WORKING ON MY SETUP (2 DIFFERENT PCS) SO ITS WHAT I RECOMMEND.

I get what you are saying, and I would be frustrated to if I was in your position.

I will note I personally have a decent amount of electrical engineering and CS knowledge from college and personal projects, and I was unable to get it working on the olimex modules. (the modules might have been fried before I got them though as a friend tried to program them before me) I have several esp8266 boards and quality ftdi/TTL cables that I was using during my testing. After following the instructions on the form and hours of reading olimex spec sheet, testing, and digging around the form I still had no luck.

However, it took only a minute or to two to get it working on my other esp8266s that had 4mbs. This is not a case of me being more familiar with the other modules than the olimex. I know far more about the olimex board than my other boards combined at this point.

No I’m not doubting your instructions work. I’m sure there’s an issue on my end and other users end(probably all different unfortunately). But most of the steps in part two (where I suspect most the issues arise) can be avoided by an alternative solution that ships on amazon next day for like $6 with much less fuss (though not as clean physically). Due to the nature of a wall of instructions that must be followed perfectly to work some users are going to have issues. Which is why selling preprogrammed modules is a great idea imo.

One step that isn't mentioned in Damiens write-up above, is that you need to set the SSID and password! in the /data folder. You can do this by making plain .txt files with your own variables. If you don't do this, you will have problems.

Because I was struggling to get my ESP board programmed on my normal dev system, a Macintosh, I just went out and bought a used Panasonic Toughbook with Windows 10 pro installed, and set up the all the Arduino IDE, downloaded the necessary libraries, and FINALLY was able to compile the VCU V3 User software, and program onto my WEMOS D1 Mini R1 the WiFi interface. For now, I have the D1 held in place on the VCU board with 3M VHB tape, and jumper wires connecting the proper pins to the 5x2 IDC header on the VCU PCB that was originally designed for interfacing with the OLIMEX-ESP board. I'm going to make up a simple PCB and have them made at JLCPCB to adapt the WEMOS D1, to just plug in to the VCU, just like the OLIMEX. If anyone wants one of these little adapter boards, PM me.

The Wemos DI has a MUCH stronger wi-fi signal that the OLIMEX. It's also much easier to program. It has a USB host controller built in, you just plug that little sucker into a USB port with a micro USB cable, and program it. No fucking with solder blobs or any of that bullshit.

My problem is now solved. I have a full strong wi-fi signal, in my ride, with the doors closed, and windows rolled up. I'm stoked that I don't have to re-mount / re-wire the CINCH containing the VCU in my setup just to get wi-fi working. Did you know that some window tint films are not wi-fi signal friendly? I learned this the hard way.

Thanks everyone for the help / efforts to help. It is very much appreciated.

PS: For posterities sake —I've attached the compiled binaries for use with the WEMOS D1 Mini, including the SPIFFS filesystem .bin
the SSID is "GS450H-VCU" and the wifi password is `inverter123`

comment deleted

PatrcioEV-ATX wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 10:12 pm I was thinking of a way to implement a "turtle" mode for when the battery gets below a certain voltage and a "dead" mode…

This is awesome, but not really suitable topic for the support thread!

Start a new topic maybe? I certainly support this effort! Great thinking.

Bassmobile, I'm very interested in a couple of those WiFi modules as I'd been struggling with some weak WiFi signals in my Tesla gen 2 charger. An extra boost would be super welcome, thank you!

Bryson wrote: ↑Wed Apr 28, 2021 4:10 pm Bassmobile, I'm very interested in a couple of those WiFi modules as I'd been struggling with some weak WiFi signals in my Tesla gen 2 charger. An extra boost would be super welcome, thank you!

Yes! Using the WEMOS D1 Mini with the adapter board, ≥ doubled the wifi signal strength. I will try to find time to make a Wiki on how to implement this alternative WiFi module soon.

Anybody who wants one of the adapters, I am happy to provide you just the adapter, or the adapter and a D1 mini, preprogrammed with the interface for some plug-n-play action. For older cars with really thick metal chassis, this is a good option. Just PM me.

Any Toyota wizards around?

I'm thinking of getting a Camry inverter connector to connect to the GS450H inverter (the Inverter interface connector (A62) 90980–12630), but there's a problem: The Camry's wiring harness (female) connector has less contacts inserted than the GS450H as the Camry inverter uses a secondary connector for a portion of the signals.

The solution would be to get more contacts for it, and the question is: What contacts? Is there a part number for the contacts? Can they be obtained from a Toyota parts dealer?

If it helps, the installed size of the male pins is about 0.7 * 0.6 * 6.4 mm.

celeron55 wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 8:36 pm The solution would be to get more contacts for it, and the question is: What contacts? Is there a part number for the contacts? Can they be obtained from a Toyota parts dealer?

first hit on google:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/produ ... ts_id/3332

I'm not sure that's the connector Celeron's referring to. I assume it's the big inverter one which isn't easily found.

Given the contact spacing is 3.0mm, you could buy two 2x10 Molex Micro-Fit 3.0 female connectors, file them down and you'd get the signal pins covered. (I just tested, the contacts fit very tightly, probably too much but it's fine for basically one insertion) Then just get some bigger contacts for the four power connections. A fairly coarse 3D print, just a generous application of adhesive sealant or even hot glue could then lock it all in place. In any case I'm thinking replacing this connector in the inverters we're using probably doesn't make sense.

EDIT: Of course the only waterproof solution out of these options would be liberal amounts of the adhesive sealant.

steveknox wrote: ↑Sat May 01, 2021 8:48 pm I'm not sure that's the connector Celeron's referring to. I assume it's the big inverter one which isn't easily found.

Oh. That was what came up with the part number mentioned. Maybe I misunderstood the ask.

Pictures of said connector headers would help!

Hello,

people seemed to struggle with programming the Wifi modules. I copied instructions from a bunch of forum posts together and added them to the Olimex wifi page. That way they can be edited in the future.

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Olimex_MOD-WIFI-ESP8266

The page has two sections, at the top what worked for me with the Tesla boards, at the bottom I copied damiens post.
Please feel free to add stuff & correct mistakes.
I added the binaries that Basshunter made for the GS450H path, and added my binaries to the Tesla/Generic webinterface path.

Thank you very much! I'll update the first post.

Please forgive me if these questions have already been answered, or seem to be too dumb to answer. I have looked through the forums, wikis, and videos, maybe missing the answers. I'm just an older hot-rodder, I would appreciate if anyone can steer me in the right direction, if not just answering outright.

Does the VCU still not provide regenerative braking, and the ability to change gears while driving?

I thought that I saw somewhere the inverter can be used for charging. Is this correct?

I know that the inverter does not need 600 V to operate well, but is there an advantage to using higher voltage? At this time, I plan on using 2 sets of Chevy Volt batteries, if not 3, so I could split the packs to come up with different voltages

I know Damien said in another post he has shown how to bypass the booster in the inverter, but I can't seem to find that.

If I can't shift gears, what is the top speed in low gear, assuming average gearing and tire size? I plan on towing a ski boat, and not sure if I will be able to do it in high gear. Fortunately, I live in coastal Texas, so no hills.

Thanks your help.

86elcamino wrote: > I plan on towing a ski boat

That sounds very ambitious. But I think that this platform is not suited for novice / first timers. There are a LOT of loose ends, and you should not count on this being the reliable way to pull the old boat down to the lake for some weekend fun.

Mr. Maguire no longer owns the gs450H powered car, the SuperYacht BMW E65 7 Series, Bexus, or whatever it's called now. He sold it off to another forum member. The new owner might be able to answer your questions about towing capability? Here is the thread: viewtopic.php?p=26284#p26284

Regenerative breaking has not been sorted out on this platform. There are zero mentions of regenerative braking in the gs450h VCU Wiki, and so it should be assumed that nobody is doing regen with the platform at this time.
Dynamic HIGH / LOW gear shifting isn't currently supported / possible. There are methods to change gears via the simplified serial interface, with the dummy’s version of the firmware. The wiki claims

GS450H VCU Wiki wrote:both current (amps) and power (kw) gauges are inoperative as of this release.

So that might be a reason not to use this firmware and wait for a later release, unless you have some other means of system consumption measurements. Don't blow yourself up!

Read the wiki! https://openinverter.org/wiki/Lexus_GS4 ... U_Firmware

As for future releases of the firmware, it seems as though further development may be up to the adventurous hackers in this community to accomplish. It's not Mr. Maguire's focus at present. Also, due to certain parts shortages, it was stated that production of GS450H VCU units has ceased. Suspect that the new agnostic controller, aka Zombieverter will pick up the slack where this left off.

Funny thing is both of these features (regen and shifting) have been implemented by users of the vcu but not shared back with the community. Really makes me wonder just why the F I'm still at this ...