openinverter forum

Good news! got one of my chargers to work. Always a "stupid" problem. for some reason my breaker popped on the incoming power and that's why the one charger that otherwise seemed like it was working perfectly but the EVSE wouldn't click on. Once I noticed that, it fired right up. So... For those keeping track, at least in the US,
1014963-05-B doesn't work yet. Has a different voltage to data offset, and definitely appears to have some comms incompatibilities.
1014963-00-L works fine.

I can confirm that all PCB's are identical between units.

I put the original "Elon" boards back on them to pull the comms. Didn't see anything particularly helpful in them, but I figure I'll drop those here for future reference if anyone wants that info. board turned on, DC switched on later (377v), then DC off, then the log ends. There is an extra couple of ID's on the 05-B log.

Also, I individually pulled logs from each module to be able to confirm which unit sends what, updated the DBC file to have all the comms from the individual phases at least marked as "Module 1" or 2... (again, extention changed to txt so it would allow me to attach it. change it to .DBC to use it)

I actually uploaded GVRET to the V4 charger board, and added 3 lines to the void Loop(),
Then Savvy CAN pulls the module data effortlessly through the board.

Anyway,
I am happy and relieved that I finally can charge my battery!

Excellent work. Helps a lot.

Hey all,
I realise time has moved on a bit but just thought I'd report back on my Gen 2 charger (USA Rev G slave) with a V4 logic board, that I'm using in a Honda Insight conversion.

It's working reasonably, I did make a few changes to get it how I wanted it - the beauty of open source. I'll describe these here and post the source / diagram if anyone is interested.

1) Automatic switching between 1-phase and 3-phase charging using an external contactor. It starts off in 3 phase, but if voltage is detected on phase 1 ONLY, the contactor is turned on which connects all the modules in parallel (via DIG_OUT_3). I use this to allow 6kW charging (or higher) at home or other 1 phase locations, but still access 10kW from public fast charge points which have 3 phase.

2) Charge termination. I wanted the charger to charge to the set voltage of 350 at constant current, then hold at that voltage as the current reduces (CV), then stop once the current falls below a threshold. How it's described in the battery datasheet.
I couldn't figure out how to do this with the standard software, so I added a parameter to the menu, you can set e.g. 3A taper current.

3) Manual mode. To allow ad hoc charging without an EVSE, I added a potentiometer with an "on-off" switch (like a radio volume control) and a cheap ebay volt/ammeter module. It uses ANA_IN and DIG_IN_2. Then if I want to charge from a random power supply at a custom rate (e.g. 5A at a campsite, 10A on a long extension cable, 20A from a commando socket) I just plug it in and dial in the amount I want, and back off if the breaker trips or the voltage looks too low. No need to bring a laptop or portable EVSE. Attended use only of course!


I do have one remaining issue, maybe someone can comment if they know what causes this:
When I'm using a real EVSE, the current occasionally seems to drop to zero and then immediately ramp back up to the set point. Haven't debugged it yet but I did see mention in another thread of noise affecting the pilot signal - could that be the culprit and how are people solving this?

Many thanks to Damien and co for the project!

Very interested, could you show how you made the hardware?
I have done something similar:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=761#p10912

Would be cool to compare hardware/software.

https://github.com/jomy-tech/My_Tesla_Charger

et0 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 19, 2020 11:12 pm I do have one remaining issue, maybe someone can comment if they know what causes this:
When I'm using a real EVSE, the current occasionally seems to drop to zero and then immediately ramp back up to the set point. Haven't debugged it yet but I did see mention in another thread of noise affecting the pilot signal - could that be the culprit and how are people solving this?

I have wondered about that to, only answer I got from Damien was "that is normal"
That's the downside of open source, things often get abandoned, for new and more fun projects

joromy wrote: ↑Sun Jul 19, 2020 11:51 pm Very interested, could you show how you made the hardware?
I have done something similar:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=761#p10912

Would be cool to compare hardware/software.

https://github.com/jomy-tech/My_Tesla_Charger

Hey Joromy!
Ahh I wish I had seen your topic I used a 2PNO contactor because I had one lying around.
Your solution is definitely the better one because it's fail safe. Mine has the possibility to short live phases together if the controller malfunctions, which I don't think would be dangerous but would definitely be a nuisance.
I might re-do it with a 3PCO like you have...

Puhh, good to know, that mine is better
It have worked great for long time now.

Nice job! Yeah I will relocate the charger to under the hood at some point, so I will redo it then, but it's working for now.

Just need to fix that pilot signal noise now, or whatever is causing that flakiness...

I’m very tentatively starting the install on my Gen 2 with V5 logic board. Still waiting for a few parts so not pressing ahead too quickly. However, I powered the unit up on the bench and got the following.
Expected outcome for just applying 12v? I was thinking the menu would appear - but then cant remember whether the boards come preloaded. Grateful for someone’s pearls.

Yes the board is pre loaded. There is no menu just a display when on charge.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 5:56 pm Yes the board is pre loaded. There is no menu just a display when on charge.

Appreciate the confirmation. Thanks

Any advice from those in the know?

Looking over the manual and the source code, have you tried sending "s" through the serial? Since you're using it in no EVSE mode. Worth a shot

Please update to the latest binary from here :
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Tesla- ... are/Binary
use the .hex file.

Please note this is a V5 board and the firmware is not opensource at this time.

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Sat Sep 05, 2020 4:21 pm BAD2CD29-D619-4340-9FF4-49BB0AFE451E.jpeg

It looks like your AC-voltage drops to 186V before it shuts off. Might be an undervoltage-switchoff ?
If I see it correctly, you connected the charger through a long (thin) mains cable. Try with something thicker (2,5mm²) for less voltage drop.

Separate from that; clean build !!

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if it would be OK to set up the Gen 2 charger like this or if would cause problems. I would like to plug in the J1772 plug first and use the 220 volts to flip a relay to turn on 12 volts to the charger, charge contactor and the water cooling pump. Would this hurt the order of tasks that are supposed to be performed or does really not make a difference? One advantage would be having it plugged in and then when rates are low at night, my 220 volt 50 amp timer would turn on the 220 thus enabling the circuits needed to charge. California really sticks it to you during the day and waiting up until after 10 at night to plug in makes no sense.

Roadstercycle wrote: ↑Mon Sep 07, 2020 12:43 am Hi,
I was wondering if anyone could tell me if it would be OK to set up the Gen 2 charger like this or if would cause problems. I would like to plug in the J1772 plug first and use the 220 volts to flip a relay to turn on 12 volts to the charger, charge contactor and the water cooling pump. Would this hurt the order of tasks that are supposed to be performed or does really not make a difference? One advantage would be having it plugged in and then when rates are low at night, my 220 volt 50 amp timer would turn on the 220 thus enabling the circuits needed to charge. California really sticks it to you during the day and waiting up until after 10 at night to plug in makes no sense.

Isn’t what you’re asking as simple as just adding 110 or 240VAC relay coil that can switch on the 12vdc for your relevant systems?

Why not use the built in 12v out to turn on your charge contactor and water pump?

Leave your timer on the input side of your EVSE. When the timer kicks on, the charger will kick on via J1772, then fire up your contactor and pump. Seems this is a typical use case and the software/hardware is capable in normal use.

The issue is that in reading this forum it is stated that you have to give the Gen 2 charger 12 volt power first before you plug in the EVSE. So by just plugging in the EVSE you do not get 12 volts out unless I missed something. Did I miss something? Do you run 12 volts to the charger all the time or do you switch it on before you plug in the EVSE? So now I'm asking what is the correct series of events? Or does it not matter?

Here's what I'm talking about. From the instructions Page from Damien.

Boot it up!
Give the charger 12V power. The logic board should light up. Connect the battery to DC out, and finally, connect your EVSE to the charger. The modules should light up in the charger, and your battery should begin charging.

Ah yes it is supposed to get 12v hot at all times. It does consume some power though, so if you leave the car for long periods, you may have to accommodate.

Bryson wrote: ↑Tue Sep 08, 2020 5:54 am Ah yes it is supposed to get 12v hot at all times. It does consume some power though, so if you leave the car for long periods, you may have to accommodate.

So now we are at full loop again. Is it Ok to turn the 12 volt power on at the same time as the 220 volt EVSE is plugged in so you don't get battery drain. There may not be an answer without testing?

The tesla charger is very particular about when it gets ac power. Too soon = fault, too late = fault. Best advice is to try but my sense would be that it will fault on ac too soon.

Thank you Damien.
Since the sequence and timing of events is important a 220 volt turn on contactor for the 12 volt systems to start then an adjustable time delayed 12 volt or 220 volt 4PST contactor for the the 220 volts, control pilot, and Proximity detection to pass through to the charger. That may be the safer way to test.

Roadstercycle wrote: ↑Thu Sep 10, 2020 4:16 am Thank you Damien.
Since the sequence and timing of events is important a 220 volt turn on contactor for the 12 volt systems to start then an adjustable time delayed 12 volt or 220 volt 4PST contactor for the the 220 volts, control pilot, and Proximity detection to pass through to the charger. That may be the safer way to test.

I’ve been playing with my freshly installed charger today. You’re right, it needs the 12v a few seconds before AC. I’m going to leave mine permanently connected and work towards having the DCDC kick in when the 12v battery dips too low (also for running the water pump during charging).

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Sun Sep 13, 2020 8:50 pm I’ve been playing with my freshly installed charger today. You’re right, it needs the 12v a few seconds before AC. I’m going to leave mine permanently connected and work towards having the DCDC kick in when the 12v battery dips too low (also for running the water pump during charging).

I have a reed switch and magnet in the charge port lid, that turn on a SSR and give 12V to charger and heat/cool controller.