[WIP] 1964 Scout LS600H conversion

[jrbe]

I wonder how a rear window defroster repair kit would work on something like this..

[jrbe]

Deleted, double post.

[robertwa]

Got the module back into the pack and rewired things up. All cells now reading as normal.

Needed my little emotional support animal to comfort me through this ordeal

[robertwa]

Grafted on the pressure relief parts from the original pack

Cut down and rewelded the Tesla cover plate

[robertwa]

The original pack had desiccant packs inside on a 1 year replacement schedule to keep things dry, not sure how much it will help, but cant hurt, so adding these too. The packs were labeled 2015, so clearly some deferred maintenance here, and perhaps contributed to my corroded cell tap. Opened the bags, and recharged the beads by drying on my grill at low heat for a few hours - lost about 20% by weight

Finally finished! Just needs a bead of sealant around all joints.

[robertwa]

With the battery pack out of the way for now I am back on the truck. Got the brakes mostly sorted. It's a completely revamped setup with new calipers and pads up front, new cylinders and shoes on the back, and all new brake lines throughout with a residual pressure relief and adjustable proportional valves to control the rear. I have a Gen 1 iBooster from a Chevy Volt. Powered it up and seems to work well. I know some have reported issues with a juddering at end of travel from the Gen1 iBooster in a classic car disc/drum setup, so far I have not seen this issue, so fingers crossed. The Volt looks like a larger bore master cylinder than others, maybe this helps. Seems like I do have some air still in the system that needs to be addressed even after bench bleeding my master cylinder a 2nd time but I'm going to take a brake from this for a while and let my grazed knuckles recover

[robertwa]

Wiring, wiring. I want to try and get as much wiring and plumbing done as possible before the battery goes in as the access is so good. Starting with the transmission wiring to Zombie and inverter to Zombie. The pre-wired Zombie connector from AliExpress is great, but the downside is that there is a ton of wire from the get-go which gets unwieldy to manage vs. doing one circuit at a time.

My original harness from the LS600H is pretty long, I'll start by coiling it behind the inverter and may thin it later, I want to get things spinning again like I had on the bench before changing anything.

[robertwa]

More wiring, got a 12 circuit universal wire harness since the whole truck needs rewiring from end to end.

This kit is nice with wires labeled every few inches

Put the truck to work making a 12V battery tray

Keeping the battery out of the way for now while doing the rest of wiring

[robertwa]

Got the transmission spinning again, this time on HV from the battery pack. Wow, it has a lot more kick than my bench top spin using a 30V power supply!

Time to tackle the charging. My using the Outlander combo charger/DCDC, imported from eBay seller on ebay since they are not readily available here in the US. This is how it arrived, absolutely no packaging material whatsoever. I hope Mitsubishi passed all their ISTA drop testing requirements!

Bought a pigtail connector from AliExpress for the low voltage power/comms plug. Got a lot of help from some folks here on finally getting everything all setup. Used an Arduino UNO + Can BUS Shield to read the can messages and got help decoding these to tell me that I didn't have a valid CP signal

Tried using the oil pump PWM signal, to no avail. Then I tried my wife's Tesla mobile charging connector with a NACS to J1772 adapter, connected CP wire from charging cable to the charger and voila, heard the relays close inside the Tesla charging unit!

'All circuits are busy' Huge relief for me to get this running. Big thanks to all that helped me!

[Jerryc]

Following this withe great interest, I'm hoping to convert a cherokee xj . Love the drive train, could be ideal for me. Best of luck from Ireland

[robertwa]

Following this withe great interest, I'm hoping to convert a cherokee xj . Love the drive train, could be ideal for me. Best of luck from Ireland

Thanks Jerry! I don't recall seeing XJ's over there but maybe I was gone before they came. I grew up in Wexford and emigrated in 2004.

[Jerryc]

Not many around, especially 4l petrol. I've a 94 one ,but I'm on the lookout for another for ev project. Following damien mcguire, especially with his mitsubishi l200. Not far from your home country, Kilkenny, carolw .

[robertwa]

Mounted an oil cooler underneath the rear battery box mount, should be plenty of air flow here

[robertwa]

Time to get the battery mounted and lift up this hulk

Had a bit of a reach problem, really need a longer boom, but was able to just maneuver into place

Down and loosely bolted in place for now

Next steps are to get my front axle rotated so pinion is pointing straight back, tack on the spring perches, and probably drop the axle to fully weld perches in place

[robertwa]

I finally decided to just get my body panels sand blasted. I was messing around with sanding, grinding, wire wheeling and rust converting and it's messy and slow. I sent off the front grill section, hood and front fenders. Doors and rear sections can come later. I started panel beating some dings, and this old girl has quite a bit of filler in places, but will wait until blasted before doing any more and I think it will be a more pleasant experience

Let's hope there is at least some metal left when I get the panels back on Friday

[robertwa]

Picked up my body panels from the sand blasters yesterday evening and they look great! Need to inspect thoroughly today and get a coat of primer on ASAP as I swear I can see these browning before my eyes. Lots of dings that will need to be worked out, but only one or rwo rust-through spots that need patching.

[robertwa]

I primed my panels tonight, front and back to keep the rust gremlins at bay. In hindsight, I should have gone with a white or black primer as the grey was so similar to the color of the sandblasted finish. it would have been nice to have seen a contrast when chasing the wet edge. No prizes for perfection here, it was a race to get coverage, but happy overall how it looks. Will revisit the dings and stuff later.

[robertwa]

With the engine bay wiring mostly done, moving back now under dashboard. I'm using a VeroBMS (SIMPBMS based) and electing to mount under dashboard. After drilling holes in firewall to mount my steering ECU, I realized it is better to weld mounting brackets than drill so many holes, so made up a bracket and welded into place. Also tidied up the new wiring loom and wired in the steering ECU control line into switched power and BMS into perm 12V.

Nextion display fits right into the radio space, not sure yet if I will 3D print an enclosure, or get a smaller display and put in the ashtray hole below

A couple of things I don't yet know is if SIMPBMS can read ISA shunt current info via CAN from Zombie, or if I need a separate current sensor, and, since the BMS is on perm 12V, if I can control it so the Nextion display is only on with T15 Ign power. I can run the 5V feed to Nextion through a relay if needed, but not sure if a setting already exists

[robertwa]

Next up - driveshafts, and then I might even be able to move this thing around the yard for the first time. I have welded in my spring perches on the front axles so the pinion points straight backwards (no up or down tilt). The transmission is also mounted dead nuts level. The rear driveshaft is really short (~22-24") and I have not yet decided if I need to go with double cardan joint at transmission and have the rear axle pinion point up, or go with regular u joints and have the rear pinion horizontal. Quick and dirty measurements show a 15 degree drop (operating angle?) of the shaft from transmission to axle

[marcexec]

I don't yet know is if SIMPBMS can read ISA shunt current info via CAN from Zombie

Couldn't they both read the packages if they are on the same CAN?

[robertwa]

Couldn't they both read the packages if they are on the same CAN?

Yes, I read up on this a little more today, and emailed Reider from VERO BMS. Looks like I can configure BMS to read the shunt. Will need to rerun the CAN lines through the dash, which probably is a good thing since I may end up with CAN speedo etc anyway.

[robertwa]

Driveshafts...... so this is what I'm starting with:

Dropped off my old parts to the driveshaft shop today and swore away my first-born child. I'm sure it's going to be expensive.

For the front, we will convert the 6 bolt CV joint on the transfer case side to a standard 1310 flange yoke u-joint, run to the front with 2.5" tubing through a slip joint to a standard 1310 front joint. It's ~41" long. I gave the shop accurate measurements, can't recall them here for now.

For the rear, it's an adapter from the 3 bolt Lexus to a 1310 4 bolt flange yoke. 2.5 inch tubing to the back with a slip joint to a 1310 u joint. It's much shorter, only ~24" long.

[robertwa]

Wired up my brake light switch and added the brake cutoff wire back to zombie, tested and works great. Nice to have that little extra piece of mind, it's a great feature.

Now a minor setback - my driveshaft shop is having a hard time finding something that can mate to the 6 bolt CV style output flange on the transfer case for the front driveshaft. There are conversion flange yokes around for other cars such as BMW E36, Mitsubishi and Honda S2000 which have the same 6 x 80mm PCD CV driveshafts and who want to convert to stronger 1310 or 1350 style driveshafts.

This one is close, but does not specify the overall outer diameter, and has 10mm through holes vs the 8mm on the original CV joint:
https://ecdriveline.com/products/honda- ... eq=uniform

[jrbe]

It's not only the bolt circle and bolt diameter, there might be hubcentric lips too.

You could make an aluminum / steel adapter puck to work between the different pieces with stepped or flush bolts to the inner flange. That could handle the centering rings if equipped.

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

This one is close, but does not specify the overall outer diameter, and has 10mm through holes vs the 8mm on the original CV joint:
https://ecdriveline.com/products/honda- ... eq=uniform

Is there enough material there that you could drill and tap yours to take 10mm bolts?