openinverter forum

using the trunk For the batteries. This probably works for Winter and testing but for hot season I will have to think at some cooling.

I used some batteries to hold in place the walls and Spray foam to push them against the batteries to be tight.

SO there is a company that makes Tesla parts. they also make the Inner cv boot. They already appeared on e-bay but at a premium price.
https://triscan.dk/en/tesla-triscan-foe ... anchetsaet


https://www.ebay.com/itm/225664020679?h ... R8KZ_pnRYg

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https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568034 ... pt=glo2usa

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This is all I was able to come up with to connect the SDU water system to the radiator in the car.

I was trying to start driving the car in about 2 weeks and while installing the water cooling I broke the hot water exit on the inverter.
I glued that back using the superglue + baking soda method, but not sure how it will hold.
i found the part for model X that looks exactly the same but wold like to make sure it fits my motor. If anybody knows where I can find that part please let me know.
This is what I found:

https://stock-tesla.com/en/index.php?ro ... t_id=48900

3D printing the complete part or maybe a part which will better be mountable (from inside?) Might be what you need.

Tesla Charger. Most annoying and frustrating project so far in this conversion. I spent 6 hours yesterday to de-solder and solder the 24 pin connector. The soldering was complicated and I think I messed it up. I do not even want to touch it right now to find out.
Today I watched a video from @gregsky to find out that the part is available to purchase online SM24B-CPTK-1A-TB(L). The Wiki does not have that info listed.
The wiki also does not have any info or even a picture with the new WiFi card configuration. Hopefully what I have done there is correct. I think one of the parts for the WiFi contraption was wrong but I have plenty of that type of connectors at home.

Thing is I bought 2 Tesla chargers to use one of them for a future conversion. If I cannot make this work I will probably just go for a different solution.

Check the wifi does it fit?

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Sat Oct 28, 2023 6:49 pm Check the wifi does it fit?

Mounted does not fit. You cannot add the Cover back on the charger. For me that's not a problem because I do not plan to leave it connected.
I think you can also solder it lower on the provided board.I prefer to have it removable.

The soldering result looks like:
- you should have used more flux
- or with the same amount of flux would have had to finish quicker in order not to evaporate all of it
- adjusting to a lower temperature could have helped if there was margin to lower it, or if a higher temperature would have allowed for a quicker job that could also have been an option
- hopefully the solder itself was good

Reflowing the solder with flux applied would probably improve the result now. Or even better wick some of the old stuff away first and add a bit of new solder, not forgetting to add flux if the solder doesn't have enough. Then test for shorts.

celeron55 wrote: ↑Sun Oct 29, 2023 3:47 am The soldering result looks like:
- you should have used more flux
- or with the same amount of flux would have had to finish quicker in order not to evaporate all of it
- adjusting to a lower temperature could have helped if there was margin to lower it, or if a higher temperature would have allowed for a quicker job that could also have been an option
- hopefully the solder itself was good

Reflowing the solder with flux applied would probably improve the result now. Or even better wick some of the old stuff away first and add a bit of new solder, not forgetting to add flux if the solder doesn't have enough. Then test for shorts.

3 pins were shorted. I ordered new connectors and tried to remove the old one. Unfortunately I damaged the board. I will have to stop here. Do not think would be smart to order another board and get to the same place.
I was willing to do some soldering .....

I would highly recommend you to get some additional flux. Personally I prefer flux gel instead of those flux pens, because in the latter the the flux is so dilluted with alcohol, that it just evaporates away. The flux gel stays at the solder joint.
My preference is Edsyn FL22, but I'm not sure if that's available in the US.

Apart of that, a single broken pad should still be very much repairable.

crasbe wrote: ↑Mon Oct 30, 2023 11:50 am I would highly recommend you to get some additional flux. Personally I prefer flux gel instead of those flux pens, because in the latter the the flux is so dilluted with alcohol, that it just evaporates away. The flux gel stays at the solder joint.
My preference is Edsyn FL22, but I'm not sure if that's available in the US.

Apart of that, a single broken pad should still be very much repairable.

Now that you mentioned alcohol in the flux i realized I can clean the crime area with alcohol. 2 metal pads are broken and could be probably fixed but they are so small that I will not attempt to do it now. Those connectors are so small that I do not even have the tools ans skills to attempt the repair. I am using the soldering Iron once every 5 years.

Right now I just want to make the car move on battery power and each battery is fully charged.
I installed the cooling system, Tesla vacuum pump, Tesla water pump. all need to be connected to 12V.
Also the high voltage cables under the care need to be fixed so they do not move.

I got an extra checkmart and cliked on it. No the project shows FINISHED.
Does anybody know how to remove the FINISHED from the title? because the project is not finished.

Proton wrote: ↑Wed Nov 01, 2023 4:03 pm I got an extra checkmart and cliked on it. No the project shows FINISHED.
Does anybody know how to remove the FINISHED from the title? because the project is not finished.

Was a permission problem. Just hit that checkmark again

crasbe wrote: ↑Mon Oct 30, 2023 11:50 am I would highly recommend you to get some additional flux. Personally I prefer flux gel instead of those flux pens, because in the latter the the flux is so dilluted with alcohol, that it just evaporates away. The flux gel stays at the solder joint.
My preference is Edsyn FL22, but I'm not sure if that's available in the US.

Apart of that, a single broken pad should still be very much repairable.

I have to thank you again. That paste flux and my cellphone made a difference; also the new connector. Do not have time to test it yet, but just by the way it looks I think it will work.

I was also able to upload on a Arduino NANO the code for the Tesla Water pump. And of course not tested yet.
Still need to figure out if I have to connect only pin 9 to the tesla pump. From what I have seen online pin 9 from Arduino Goes to pin 3 on the tesla connector.
@Alibro posted the code here:

viewtopic.php?t=2906



Only running the pump at 45%

// Set-up fast PWM on the Arduino UNO at 1Hz on Digital pin D9
void setup() {
pinMode(9, OUTPUT); // Set digital pin 9 (D9) to an output
TCCR1A = _BV(COM1A1) | _BV(WGM11); // Enable the PWM output OC1A on digital pins 9
TCCR1B = _BV(WGM13) | _BV(WGM12) | _BV(CS12); // Set fast PWM and prescaler of 256 on timer 1
ICR1 = 31249; // Set the PWM frequency to 2Hz: 16MHz/(256 * 2Hz) - 1 = 31249
OCR1A = 14062; // Set the duty-cycle to approx 45%: 31249 / 100 * 45 = 14062
}
void loop() {}

Holy crap! So this was a battery fire?
That is awful I know the feeling... No actually yours is worse, at least my car (Polo) drove 6 years before the heater caught on fire

That really sucks! I'm glad no one was hurt at least

Damn shame...so bad!!!

I just discussed something similar with a friend.
He said if i would use Alu cased NMC cells you can buy from china i would have to use some sort of plastic 1mm spacers between them. Maybe acrylic or polycarbonate and they have to be 5mm higher than the cells. He said this is because the metal casing is on the negative electrode and can cause shootrough at the seams of that blue plastic which is covering the cells.
Maybe you had a slow meltdown and you didnt notice because it is just 3.6V draining from one cell to the other and it takes a long time to heat up that mass...

EDIT: Found some thermal imagers
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005 ... 8201405%21

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001 ... 8201405%21

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006 ... bzXn9tpxcT

Maybe one of them got punctured somehow. That smell 10 minutes before the fire was very specific.

Last one. I was running with the water hose on both sides and did not see the tire. This was at the end when the fire went down.

I just want to thank you all you guys here. I learned a lot in the last 6 months. I am definitely very happy about that.
When the finances will permit I will get back to it.

I feel very sorry for you.. must be devastating.