openinverter forum

J0hannes wrote: ↑Mon Feb 03, 2025 5:25 pm Fabricobbled a mount for the Audi/VAG vag vas pump and Volvo vac switch...

Very nice built, which volvo vac switch are you using? Could you please share the part number?

Sorry, can't tell the part number sice I don't have one. I just browsed online wreckers with Volvo vacuum hose as search word and bought the one that had the part and connector.
The wreckers don't seem to know either what this is or to which category to put it as I didn't see a pattern while browsing the listings.
But here's one listing to demonstrate that at least this part isn't expensive to source
https://rrr.lt/en/used-part/dev383977-v ... -pipe-hose

Cleaned up the main fuse box and pulled out a few meters of copper. Then made some mounts (brackets).

Yet another scrap piece of metal found a new life as a sparse comb Wip on the spaghetti, but hey it's cleaning up Installed quite nicely to Suzuki air box mounts Been hunting terminals
The single mini fuse terminal seems to be Sumitomo 8100-1233 (-1236, -1237) / Yazaki 7126-8850 (-8851, -8852) Two-way Yazaki 7126-8822 The terminals used in relay sockets I have not identified yet
Possibly Yazaki F250-M-LC-M, See Rakuten

Looks alot like the things MTA would also use in their products https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/mta.html

Or the TE terminals https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDel ... t=880398-2
https://www.te.com/en/product-881572-3.html

Then again its a Suzuki so likey uses Japanese terminals.

tom91 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 19, 2025 9:58 pm Then again its a Suzuki so likey uses Japanese terminals.

Oh, key piece of information left out in my post, I was working on the Leaf main harness (or what's left of it)
But yes, Japanese connectors/terminals are the usual suspects anyways

Most of the connectors on the Suzuki harness look like they are Sumitomo 250 series sealed and unsealed
DS 250, MT 090 and some others, luckily these are well available

I suspect that my parts donor Leaf was made in the UK, wire harnesses are made in France as they have French labels when you peel away all the sheathing and tape. For reference, I'll try to remember to get a picture next time around.

Today I got all the pumps running and updated to latest Zombieverter FW to make a test drive outside. Well, no test drive yet as there is some hiccup in reversing

The TRW pump needed just the alternator signal switched to inverter on and it was screaming again like there's no tomorrow. Water pumps are getting quieter, there must have been some air in the lines regardless of the fancy vacuum filling. Wired up the VW heater, but it did not seem to want to heat. Didn't do much diagnosing on that yet.

Heater params were VW, control enable, power 6500W and HeatPercent 100. I also used PB3IN as Heat request and that didn't seem to change things either. Tips are welcome I have the R50 and C45 changed as per the note mentioned in Zombieverter hardware NOTE : R50 will need to be changed to 1k and C45 to 1n in order for LIN to work properly. This will be amended on further builds. So if you have a board ordered before 14/03/24 this change is required.

Taming the spaghetti has proceeded as expected and there are very few on the "get back to this later" -list Zombieverter will find its new home under the glovebox, similarly to the ICE ECU I had mounted there. That way I don't have to "recalibrate" my max water level Had ordered a new LV connector for battery, crimped and pinned that. Reused the blind plugs from old connector. I'll save that for any and all possible future use scenarios Since I have now tried 3 different FW releases and none of them had any torque in reverse, I started to look into this and did some CAN logging. Maybe my 2017 30kWh Leaf driveline (stack and battery) is a snowflake, or is it possible that this is a bug left unexposed? I don't know, but I will find out Alishit, found the perfect high voltage warning sticker

J0hannes wrote: ↑Sun Mar 02, 2025 10:40 pm eater params were VW, control enable, power 6500W and HeatPercent 100. I also used PB3IN as Heat request

Please post your params. You know PB3 is a pull to ground. Did you see the Heat request spot value go to ON?

tom91 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 02, 2025 11:00 pm Please post your params. You know PB3 is a pull to ground. Did you see the Heat request spot value go to ON?

Yes, heat request spot value changes to ON.

Params are same as I'm using now to test the 2.31 TH (with fw version this the heater works!)

J0hannes wrote: ↑Tue Mar 04, 2025 5:22 pm he 2.31 TH (with fw version this the heater works!)

So the latest code from the Vehicle Testing branch has the heaters working?

Which FW version were you testing with before?

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 04, 2025 5:38 pm So the latest code from the Vehicle Testing branch has the heaters working?

Which FW version were you testing with before?

2.20A official release

J0hannes wrote: ↑Tue Mar 04, 2025 6:03 pm 2.20A official release

Yes that had a LIN bug, the main branch has fix and is being tested by Damien to release.

Well, in the meanwhile...

I've been sorting out the spaghetti and did a little test spin

Congrats! One EV grin at a time

marcexec wrote: ↑Mon Mar 10, 2025 10:12 am Congrats! One EV grin at a time

Yes! Feeling like a winner

Also
Tested today the quick fix by Tom91 for Zombieverter Leaf CAN messages and boy does it feel good to have torque in reverse!

Gave a shot on redoing the intermediate driveshaft. Been wanting to try out oil fill for balancing, so here goes nothing!

Had found a suitable cable feed through for HV battery cable from the boat section of local auto parts shop As I have route it through the cockpit. Also had some interface plates cut, so I have something more rigid to mount the feed through to I'll try to remember to snap a pic of the end result too The hood closes now Coolant reservoir would have had enough clearance Leaf PDM doesn't really clear it, but damn that's close It looked like it was close and so it is, but still the original bed sides fit. Its still a WIP, but I figured that I can use the Leaf battery mounts also to build an interface to mount the bed sides

Nobody will know that this is electric when I'll pull a tarp over the bed and cover that battery
Also, remembered that I had one of these collecting dust. Its a plastic fender for trucks and truck trailers. For smaller wheeled vehicles easily makes two out of one Some sheetmetal profile for mounts Those should work just fine and I hear they take a beating too Got some OEM new Jimny wheels, these are light. Should look good also when I get the weight of the car Spliced the VW heater interlock to Leaf engine harness interlock circuit. The plan is to connect this as part the Inverter pover relay control circuit. So circuit open --> no inverter power. One of the vehicle modification requirements in Finland for a car this old is that the vehicle indicated to the driver if it is in an active driving state when the drivers' door is ajar. I was first adding a signal lamp, but then I figured a buzzer is actually useful for me too. I didn't have cardboard, but is brown paper ok? This is what I figured that needs to be done before MOT. (Already reserved a time slot for that for next week ) An idea to cover the gaping hole I made on the hood. We'll see what it'll actually be With this I'm close to declare the project DRIVING

J0hannes wrote: ↑Fri May 02, 2025 10:41 pm For smaller wheeled vehicles easily makes two out of one

Big fan of scrap engineering Milk jug PE can be heat formed quite nicely...

Well I've been working on my brown list until all got struck over

The hood scoop is now really made from a snow scoop I picked up from for free. It was probably run over with a car or something and didn't work for snow scooping. For hood scooping there was enough material to work with Added a shield over the battery connectors, theres also a nice ISO 7001-W12 sticker on it now Sealed the PDM, didn't have the Nissan spec stuff, but the grey is probably good enough Added the "warning" sticker Did some insulation resistance measurements with my Kaise SK-3100, which I got on Facebook for freebie. 500V rated Yellow condom gloves for safety, you know Prodded the HV connectors on main harness and VW heater as well as the charge ports. The analog gauge is not the most precise, but got tha ball park numbers that I could use for the report for initial inspection I'm writing for MOT. Changed these lighter wheels as D-day is nigh First charge at home Today I drove to work and back. Remembered to check soc before and after only on my way to work, that was about 29km. Consumption was roughly 19kWh/100km. No heater used and max 70km/h (my subpar driveshaft adapter give heavy vibrations, so I need to drive nice until a better one emerges ). Will have to do more logbook work on getting a better understanding on the possible consumption.

Today I went and had this bucket MOT'd
So with this, I declare this DRIVING.

This concludes phase I of my project

Next I'll take some time driving around on and off road, getting a better understanding on the range I'm going to have and fix some minor things.

Stay tuned

The real first drive

Oh boy this is more than insane!
Don't really have the words to describe how it feels, other than brutally and awesome!



What I have identified as needs for improvement / development during the drive or earlier:
-This needs creep, adjustable preferrably
-Pressing the brake pedal and throttle is uninevitable, torque request being cut by touching the brake pedal makes driving difficult in situations where physics wants to move the car opposite direction to what the driver wants... Some finer system, maybe based on brake pressure or something to limit max toque request, but not kill it completely
-Air compressor is noisy
-I really need to upgrade the rear springs to slightly higher load range, now they sag and rear end feels too soft

Great watch imagine having to do this with a clutch!
Do you have some metrics for us? Like how much energy did you use that day vs. a fossil burner? How was the car perceived?

Not sure if creep mode from the inverter made it into Zombie... Hill hold will just work with replacement board as it needs direct access to resolver

johu wrote: ↑Tue Jun 10, 2025 7:29 pm Great watch imagine having to do this with a clutch!
Do you have some metrics for us? Like how much energy did you use that day vs. a fossil burner? How was the car perceived?

Not sure if creep mode from the inverter made it into Zombie... Hill hold will just work with replacement board as it needs direct access to resolver

I've been doing this with a clutch for over 20 years, so this two pedal driving actually feels somewhat awkward. Especially since driving an ICE Suzuki means lots of clutch slipping needed

I've been quite bad at following fuel consumption as usually every drop of fuel put in to tank has been burnt up
Also, forgot to check SOC before heading in for the drive

But maybe some guesstimation can be made:
Left home at approx 69% --> drive to Off Road park
Drive for about 3h, lunch break and then another 2h driving with less wheels spinning freely, SOC~32%
So that's approx 9kWh out of which maybe 2kWh went to the drive from home to Off Road park

Compared to a day with gas burner typically maybe a quarter of tank at max, so approx 10l of gas.

I'd say in general the car was greeted with curiousity and interest. The instant torque from standstill got probably most comments.

I haven't found creep in Zombieverter, but thanks for the tip, I'll check the inverter side implementation
Hill hold sounds heavenly for this use, but I'll have to put that thought on the back burner for a while.
Still I need to make the improved motor side driveshaft adapter and add the Hyundai VESS first for people to hear this thing coming behind them in the woods

Soo, had a contactor fuze at some point and thought that it'd be a good thing to fix it sooner rather than later.

Started by cleaning up the battery and wiped off loose dust etc. Got Some tools, Leaf SM recommends a windshield glue cutter and 0,5mm piano wire, so those were the tools.
The glue specified is an urethane based adhesive and primer
999MP - 57302NP, which is DOW Chemical Betaseal™ 57302N urethane (1)
999MP - 43533PP DOW Chemical Betaseal™ 43533 glass primer (2)

The shop I got these didn't have this, but figures that a windhield gluing set has all the needed stuff, as this is also urethane based.
SikaTack Drive set Windshield remover worked to some extent, but 11€ tool doesn't go too long. The blade was rather soft and after few passes from differend directions, the tip broke off. Here it's still in one piece.
Also it felt like the glue was deeper than what I expected.
Later it turned out that this battery has been opened at least once and upon regluing they hadn't used the dam rubber which should have been used as per Nissan service manual to prevent exactly what had happened. A couple of box cutters and various thickness screwdrivers etc to use as a wedge and help cutting. Eventually all the glue was cut and the box cover could be lifted. For most part the glue seam looked ok But from few areas you could see that corrosion had creeped under On more than one area, a generous amount of glue has been applied Cover side again, mostly ok Here you can see how the too generously applied lealant has spread up around the radius edge (which it should not have).
No wonder it felt rather difficult to get this cracked open Couple of corrosion creep occurences like this, sealant fell right off here Contactor assembly under the busbars Found the BMS Well before opening this battery, I had ordered a spare contactor assembly with the intention to do a drop-in swap.
Once I go the contactor assy out of the battery and next to the spare, I made the observation that I'm screwed...
No way these can be used.

So to all those out there looking for spares, AEV6501A and AEV6505A ARE NOT interchangeable, don't ask how I know AEV6501A has side terminals and "small" bushings on the mounting flange.
AEV6505A has top terminals implemented with miniature busbars and custom cap for contactor. Also "large" brass bushings on mounting flange.
This information probably has read somewher if I had bothered to check it out instead of blindly assuming that yeah, they're all the same

The negative side contactor got moving with slight hammer tapping action, but positive side didn't budge even with heavy smashing --> for a fleeting moment I had this idea that I could switch the the coil housing from a working contactor.
Step 1: Hat off Step 2: Take a sliding hammer and smash away to pull the core
Gave up on the idea though as this was rather harsh operation to get the contactor core separated. There is a elastomer silencer? in the bottom. Also the top was crimped from four corners, so kinda one-way disassembly. So yeah, left the battery open waiting for a correct set of contactors and then this'll get resealed and back in action