openinverter forum

Lacking any other way to contribute, I at least collected timestamps to help people find sections faster:

Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
4:00 - Purchasing Choice/Considerations
8:41 - SMT Assembly/Soldering
31:23 - Throughhole Assembly/Soldering
44:05 - Powerup Voltage Checks
46:14 - Software Installation/ST-Link/Wifi Install
49:00 - Inverter External Disassembly
1:03:58 - Damien Uses a Prybar
1:10:25 - Damien Singing to his Inverter
1:13:10 - Topless/Internal Disassembly
1:20:00 - Out With The Old/In With The New
1:27:25 - In The Next Episode

However, this shouldn't be buried 5 pages deep on a support thread. I suggest either a locked, or at least a heavily curated "Manual" thread. Which should link to Damien's webshop, the Github, the wiki page, etc. And which Damien should link back to from those places.

For the PIN15 issue, I've testing now after I got the motor running and disconnect PIN15. Now it runs. That are good news for building the board because it is realy tricky to connect a wire only on PIN15.
I don't know what in the past was the real problem, because in the meantime I do solder on the STM32 pins and changed the phases for the current measuring.

So Damien thank you very much for the remark.

That's a great video you done, for me it is sometimes a problem to wait for example when open the case for disconnecting of the glue and your video shows nice how to wait.

Whenever you are working to open any glued lids on automotive devices you need to go in between with a wide and thin screwdriver (I grinded one for this task) and twist handle a bit to lift one side and hold for the glue to release on that side. Repeat on each side and only then you can lever the lid. Otherwise you can damage the lid or screwdriver...

Also it helps a lot to have the inverter at room temperature. I tried at first in my garage at slightly above freezing and it was really hard to open it, after being indoors overnight it was much easier.

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 7:31 pm Installation and setup manual part one :

This is fabulous Damien

Hello there!
I've got a little question here. There is a deal I've got on my hands - gen 3 invereter for 20 euros, that is "just stopped working"...
I've googled some info about them and have found out that gen 3's IGBTs tend to burn the most of any generation. But, there are always photos like this: And those are boost converter IGBTs. So correct me if I'm wrong, but there is no issues for usage of MG1 and MG2 power stages? Right?

arber333 wrote: ↑Sat May 16, 2020 10:59 am Whenever you are working to open any glued lids on automotive devices you need to go in between with a wide and thin screwdriver (I grinded one for this task) and twist handle a bit to lift one side and hold for the glue to release on that side. Repeat on each side and only then you can lever the lid. Otherwise you can damage the lid or screwdriver...

After trying and failing with a few different screwdrivers, I used a broken kitchen knife and that worked perfectly. Obviously not everyone hoards broken stuff, but just sometimes it pays off.

So went to work on the M3 rear drive unit today with the prius inverter and foc firmware. Of course it didnt work as the Prius inverter has current sensors on Phases 1 and 3 not Phases 1 and 2 as required by the foc firmware. Sooo went poking around the firmware and made some changes :
Unless I'm missing something somewhere else this should make the pinswap swap phases 2 and 3 not phases 1 and 3. Here goes ....

Yep that works. I can't seem to upload the bin so will wait for Johannes to do it properly:)

The update to 4.85 didn't work for me via wifi, I had to use the stm programmer.
Since Johannes introduced a pinswap "prius" mode in the new software, I removed the intersection in the control, but unfortunately I was too hasty, it didn't work.
So I had to cross the control again so that the motor turns.
I can still manage a simple basic or pascal program, but at c I gave up. So I'm waiting for a finished software solution or continue to use my hardware solution.

Try this. Set pinswap to pwm1and3. It actually swaps 2 and 3.

Hi Damien I can model up the PCB holder /sealing unit and get it 3d printed this weekend if you send me dimension for the opening in the inverter and PCB. Ironically I bought the printer to make up the high voltage connector to seal around the brass HV lugs on my is300h inverter( I have HV orange filament).

Is there any need to connect the negative battery cable through the weird hole? I think you only need one brass post there to connect the positive and use Toyota's intended terminal for the negative.

I'm not using a Gen3, I'm using a Gen2, so I don't have quite as much immersion into this and might not make the correct wiki edits. But, trying to contribute, so:

Timestamps / Details / Notes below:

0:00 - Intro, DC/DC 12v overview
4:00 - Voltage limits, resistor swap theory
12:22 - Desoldering resistors
22:52 - Ampseal/Ribbon Adapter Board
33:03 - Installing Ampseal on Inverter
39:52 - Battery Connection
55:00 - Outro

On Resistors:

Replace 2 sets of 4 resistors: old 120kohm with new 210kohm (1%, 0.5W, 0805, Manufacturer part#: ERJP06F2103V Farnell #: 2326773 )

Top side: R629, R627, R625, R623
Bottom side: R630, R628, R626, R624

If you can't do this yourself, call up a mobile phone repair shop in your town and ask them, this is easy work for them to do.

Capacitors? On Auris, they're 350v caps. But on Prius Gen 3, capacitors are 400v. Damien is going to risk using them near 400v. See future videos if this works or not.

29:20 - Damien messed up, silkscreen tells you to put the notch backwards on this V1 version of the board. Notch should be upwards (towards ampseal pins).

49:21 - Battery is not connected to normal battery terminals. Battery terminal measurements. Cap: 20mm diameter across, 6mm head. Shank: Both 16mm diameter, one 30mm long, one 40mm long. Through-hole: 6.5mm diameter. Dimensions not critical, different shank length just to help avoid terminals accidentally shorting.

Thank you for the video.
I look forward to every series with impatience. A lot of useful information.
p.s
Inside Aqua invertor - p165j350 and 156J35 capacitors

In wich format do you guys need a 3D model for a printing? I believe for this design we gonna need 90 degrees angle ampseal connector and plate placed horizontally.

Attached archive with *.stl file. There is a little mistake on picture, it is corrected in 3D model in archive.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 8:11 am In wich format do you guys need a 3D model for a printing?

Many thanks for sharing

Also I want to point out that I might missed the sealant groove dimensions. If anybody who will print it and place a sealant inside, let me know if it is an misalignment. I'll correct it.

What's the voltage range with the resistor divider change? I'm assuming the lower threshold is increased?

Brilliant. Thanks Damien. Resistors ordered, along with a finer tip for my soldering iron, some of that TechSpray braid, and some tweezers.

Konstantin - thanks for that 3D model too - I was planning to do that but you've saved me a job!

This plate, I've designed is literally a plate of plastic. It can be fabficated with simple drill and dremel. Too bad, I've got no ampseal socket on hand, and If I order one abroad, it will arrive too late for design testing.

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 11:42 am This plate, I've designed is literally a plate of plastic. It can be fabficated with simple drill and dremel. Too bad, I've got no ampseal socket on hand, and If I order one abroad, it will arrive too late for design testing.

I have an Ampseal handy. I'll throw it on the printer now and let you know.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 12:04 pm I have an Ampseal handy. I'll throw it on the printer now and let you know.

Much appreciated!

Doh! I am, as we say here, a numpty. Printed it out and realised I only have the Ampseal plug - the socket hasn't arrived yet.

Anyway, it looks good in situ (assuming I have it the right way around?) and the plug matches up very well to the hole. As soon as the socket arrives I'll test that.