openinverter forum

Отличная работа ! წარმატებები !

Berdi wrote: ↑Sun Jun 06, 2021 9:11 am Отличная работа ! წარმატებები !

გმადლობთ

Wow, technologically advanced. Neat jumpers. I almost put the drive cut and through the rubber couplings connected to the overrunning bearings one-sided 2 pieces for each drive. soon I'll show you a photo, all-wheel drive hubs and external shruy I already put on the Toyota Avalon front-wheel drive from the Lexus RX400h all-wheel drive. The rear brake discs are also slightly larger by 3-4 cm in diameter. But everything came up, just a little bit of traction on the rear wheels lengthened, as the car rose a little, that's how it should be. and now putting my 80 kg batteries and charging, the BMS and the body of another 20 kg, will be just the clearance, even higher than the standard, well, as I need.
who knows this BMS from Ford Fusion Energy how to connect? or what BMS to put?

Ого, технологично. Аккуратные перемычки. Я почти поставил привода разрезанные и через резиновые муфты соединил с обгонными подшипниками односторонними по 2 штуки на каждый привод. скоро фото покажу, ступицы полноприводные и внешние шруы я уже поставил на Тоету Авалон переднеприводную от Лексус RX400h полноприводного. Диски тормозные задние тоже немного больше на 3-4 см в диаметре. Но все подошло, только немного тяги на задних колесах удлиннил, так как машина немного поднялась, вот так как и нужно. и теперь поставив мои аккумуляторы 80 кг и зарядку, БМС и корпус еще 20 кг, будут как раз по клиренсу, даже выше стандарта, ну как мне и нужно.
кто знает этот БМС от Форд Фьюжн Энерджи как подключить? или какой БМС поставить?

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 17, 2020 9:32 am Ok. Firmware 4.87R-FOC. Set pinswap 10.

Is pinswap 10 the correct setting? I've got it at 8.

I'm having trouble getting the motor to spin again, just whining. Resolver feedback still looks good.



Don't remember changing anything since been able yo drive slowly, other than now at full voltage.

EDIT
Nevermind, just checked the code, 10 and 8 both will do PWM23 swap, where as 10 will also swap resolver sin and cos, doubt that's my issue.

EDIT AGAIN
works today with no changes :S

Got the inverter installed in the car with the Outlander motor (same as @Bigpie) and two BMW PHEV modules (~114V together). Turning the wheels manually with the car in gear gives me decent resolver readings.

In Run mode a little throttle produces inverter whine and the motor tries to turn the wheels. I assumed syncofs needed tweaking.

But in manual mode I didn't get any whine when adding manualid. And when I dug a little deeper, my current readings seemed to be all over the place.

See image attached which shows idc, il1, il2 and id in manual mode with zero manualid applied. Apologies for poor image quality.

I'm guessing some issue with current sensors? Will be checking voltage supply and continuity but any other pointers very welcome.

For reference I've also posted plot from run mode with and without a little throttle (the more consistent readings are with throttle applied).

Following up on my last post, I've swapped out my boards for a spare which had better readings on the -5V. I've installed a bulb again for testing. But still can't get manual run to work.

I can spin the wheels (slowly) in run mode, and with the the lamp connected, that lights up when the pedal is pressed (albeit not very much and it doesn't seem to get brighter as the pedal is depressed). But when I put it in manual run and add some manualid, nothing happens. No whine, no lamp.

Any suggestions welcome.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Jul 03, 2021 3:21 pm Following up on my last post, I've swapped out my boards for a spare which had better readings on the -5V. I've installed a bulb again for testing. But still can't get manual run to work.

I can spin the wheels (slowly) in run mode, and with the the lamp connected, that lights up when the pedal is pressed (albeit not very much and it doesn't seem to get brighter as the pedal is depressed). But when I put it in manual run and add some manualid, nothing happens. No whine, no lamp.

Any suggestions welcome.

When you put the inverter in manual run did you have the direction chosen to forward?

I did. Should I not?

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Jul 03, 2021 3:55 pm I did. Should I not?

You should, wondered if you were not putting it into forward direction. Johannes inverter will not produce any pwm if direction is not chosen including manual run mode. Do you get any error codes at all? Can you share your settings? Has this inverter experienced a short circuiting event on the -5/5v line? If you suspect current sensors are damaged that might be how it happened. Did you ever change firmware/settings/wiring including phase wiring order since the last time you had ir properly running?

m.art.y wrote: ↑Sat Jul 03, 2021 7:07 pm

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Sat Jul 03, 2021 3:55 pm I did. Should I not?

You should, wondered if you were not putting it into forward direction. Johannes inverter will not produce any pwm if direction is not chosen including manual run mode. Do you get any error codes at all? Can you share your settings? Has this inverter experienced a short circuiting event on the -5/5v line? If you suspect current sensors are damaged that might be how it happened. Did you ever change firmware/settings/wiring including phase wiring order since the last time you had ir properly running?

Lots to think about - thank you. Short answers at half time in the football:

- No error codes
- No short circuit event on those lines that I can think of. Trying to borrow a spare inverter to test that
- Settings have probably changed - and hardware now. Was nervous about doing much FOC testing before the motor was hooked up to something so this is really first proper testing. But manual run definitely worked before.
- I've largely been using @Bigpie's settings from the parameter database so they're pretty consistent https://openinverter.org/parameters/view.html?id=18. From these I've changed syncofs, udcgain, and pot settings.

Right, mucking around again this morning and tried downgrading firmware from 5.05 to 4.96. Instantly, everything worked:
- manual mode worked as it should, could hear inverter whine straight away and current readings were responsive
- throttle response in run mode with syncofs set was exactly as it should be

My daughter and I are absolutely buzzing now. Can't wait to get this thing on the road.

Fantastic result, very well done! Amazing to see the wheels spin. Did you ever get to the bottom of what was causing the resolver reading to continually peak and trough?

I think I just had it wired wrong. I've added a load of detail to the motor page on the wiki now that I know I have it right, including references to the original loom wiring colours and where it connects on the OI boards.

jack.. what would you need to be able to make a control board for the avalon inverter? 2015 model, i could possibly ship the control board to you, or even buy you a inverter and ship it to you. i would really like to be able to use this inverter for a higher amperage application. since it has larger mosfets for the generator

If Mr Toyota decides I'm too hot and wants a rest, does the error get reported to the little Joannes inside or does the inverter just sit down?

Edit:
Found a response from JB a few pages back, I've started a FAQ section on the wiki so details like this can be added.

"basically yes. I linked the toyota driver error signals to the brkin pin on the stm32 so when Mr.toyota gets angry the Johannes brain stops making pwm:)"


So if the inverter has an error signal, Johannes thinks the brake is pressed and stops PWM'ing.

My din_brk is off so this doesn't seem to be my issue.

Guess who was doing it wrong? Missing bolts on the lower phase connections will cause intermittent working motor.
9 times out of 10, user error

If Mr.Toyota gets angry it shuts down the inverter board via the break_in not brake_in:) Break_in is the hardware shutdown to the pwm timer. I've done that little trick with the missing bolts myself:)

Glad it's not just me
Just looking in to this further for curiosity, PB12/TIM1_BKIN pin looks to be Pin::bk_in
This is the only code I've found for bk_in, doesn't seem to be used.
The ISR doesn't do anything with bk_in, probably a question more for the firmware than gen 3 specific. I'm assuming Mr Toyota will not drive the IGBT's anyway.

*EDIT* It does disable the PWM in the ISR and change mode to off and sets error flag, but doesn't set an error message. Good to get more familiar with more of the software.

Running again.

She’s alive!

Can someone help me determine what could cause HICUROFS2 error and complete FULL battery current injection when a throttle input is given. The inverter current sensors are working properly when I switch V1c boards with the same FOC parameters the inverter functions with full control. I also verified the MG1 and MG2 sensor connectors are properly soldered and all voltage rails have correct voltage levels. Thanks

is 3.273v acceptable deviation on the C32 3.3v supply? I also have -4.95V on Connector 7 (mg2 current sensor ). Could this voltage difference be the cause for the HICUROFS2 error?

When looking in the link below it seem like your current sensor feedback is outside limits. When getting this error, do you have the current sensors connected? If not, try and connect them. If the current sensors are connected, measure the voltage across C57 resp. C59. That is the current feedback voltages.
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Errors

bexander wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 6:36 am When looking in the link below it seem like your current sensor feedback is outside limits. When getting this error, do you have the current sensors connected? If not, try and connect them. If the current sensors are connected, measure the voltage across C57 resp. C59. That is the current feedback voltages.
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Errors

The current sensors were connected and the board was fully installed in the inverter when I got the error messages. I will check the voltage across C57 and C59 and let you know what I find what voltage should they read?

invokeperformance wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 1:55 pm

bexander wrote: ↑Fri Jul 23, 2021 6:36 am When looking in the link below it seem like your current sensor feedback is outside limits. When getting this error, do you have the current sensors connected? If not, try and connect them. If the current sensors are connected, measure the voltage across C57 resp. C59. That is the current feedback voltages.
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Errors

The current sensors were connected and the board was fully installed in the inverter when I got the error messages. I will check the voltage across C57 and C59 and let you know what I find what voltage should they read?

Quoted from the error message page:
"Current channel 1 or 2, respectively, is below 1.23 or above 2.06V when no current is flowing. Check wiring and voltage dividers."
So if between 1.23 and 2.06V it is good, outside means error.