openinverter forum

well it's gotta get worse before it gets more better...

so managed to get the pie crust off of the good side, the passenger floor behind the driver (US edition)


BEFOREski

AFTERski

What method did you use?

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Fri Jan 26, 2024 9:45 pm What method did you use?

but you're welcome to try this:

sometime you just need an easy Win !

some say he shouldn't be allowed anywhere near an inverter...

Note that stainless is easily scratched by heavy metal parts, like ones you're flipping 12 times to get each face twice. I'd be lining that sink with drawer liner or a passenger side floormat or something.

Also, the complete savage he is Greg uses the kitchen sink like he's some kind of bachelor. Completely unacceptable. The smell of oil and grease that he's noseblind to and definitely doesn't belong in the kitchen is going to be a dead giveaway. It's detectable in parts per million. That's why you use the shower in the guest bathroom. 2-factor security. If the wife comes home unexpectedly, you don't get ambushed out in the open field of the kitchen with no cover and no one on watch. You're in a bathroom, a room with a lock, and you bunker down and tell her you're taking a horrible shit and that's why you're using the guest bathroom. And you leave the fan on. It'll take away the oil smell, and everyone will give it wide berth for a half hour after anyway. It's the perfect crime.

You say that on the Prius inverters we don't use the default HVDC inputs. I know you just had that confirmed for the Gen3, but is that true of the Gen2 as well? Under what circumstances is it true (for either)? Would it be okay if you were using original Prius voltages (~228vdc max)? Would it be okay, but not okay, if you're repurposing the buck/boost for charging?

What happened to using a spare inverter (i.e. MG1) for charging? Is that an option, or did the buck/boost get chosen instead, or, do you use the buck/boost with MG1 to make that all happen?

On the DC-DC converter, I know on the Gen2 it's moderately picky for input voltage (basically wants it to be OEM NiMH voltages, IIRC won't turn on until you get ... hmm, no one's ever added it to the wiki, damnit, I do recall the discussion of someone gradually feeding it voltage and graphing what it did). On the Gen3 your wiki says it won't turn on unless 80v-230v on the HVDC, though a different place below says 100v-240v. It's been respectably reverse engineered and if you want to run the DC-DC at higher HVDC pack voltage you can swap out 2 resistors. But then there's also some talk about using it as a charger at the same time, and, someone's posted pages and pages of code (for what/where?) directly onto the main page of the wiki. Looks like the info is maybe all gathered there, but not in an especially friendly-to-use way.

On cables... I did pull a Gen3 Prius inverter, maybe with cables. I believe I convinced the yard they were integral to the unit as they were bolted internally and were sealed in a dust-free room and couldn't be reasonably removed without ruining the inverter, and thus they shouldn't be charging extra for them. Sometimes I've seen 'en snipped, sometimes I've seen 'em intact. Though our PnPs here aren't supposed to have hybrids at all. Mileage may vary. Anyway, point being I'm probably not so stupid as to build a second EV right now/ever, and if cables are a fortune or hard for you to find, if it's less extortionary to ship them to you for Canada Post prices, let me know.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 4:50 am
What happened to using a spare inverter (i.e. MG1) for charging? Is that an option, or did the buck/boost get chosen instead, or, do you use the buck/boost with MG1 to make that all happen?

I think in order to use the Toyota Prius Gen 3 inverter as a charger you need to replace the OEM internal logic board with one from EVBMW.com either the single motor or the dual motor one, as the ZombieVerter, the option I am taking does not have that functionality.

Software for charging is now available:
https://github.com/celeron55/prius3charger_buck

Also in order to use this Inverter as a DC-DC converter to charge the regular car battery we need to replace eight or so 100 something something resistors with 200 something something ones. I also will not be doing this as the Outlander charger I plan on using is a combo unit and is both a charger and a DC-DC converter.


Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board




Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Dual Motor

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 4:50 am
You say that on the Prius inverters we don't use the default HVDC inputs. I know you just had that confirmed for the Gen3, but is that true of the Gen2 as well? Under what circumstances is it true (for either)? Would it be okay if you were using original Prius voltages (~228vdc max)? Would it be okay, but not okay, if you're repurposing the buck/boost for charging?

The short answer is I'm not sure as I am still in the transferring the rust off my floors to my face phase of the project. However I believe Johannes is doing just that by running the Leaf pack at half voltage at 180v and bringing that in to the Toyota Prius Gen 2 inverter using the stock OEM traction battery connectors. The following video is queued up for you where he clearly explains this in [ahem] German:

Don't spread myths

I feed the full 400V into the stock HV input BUT I have changed the wiring internally. 400V go straight onto the dual-inverters DC bus. In addition the boost side of the buck/boost converter is also connected to said DC bus. It then serves two functions:
- while driving it bucks down the 400V DC to 200V DC for the DC/DC to run on
- while charging it boosts rectified mains (~300V) onto the DC bus for battery charging

At some point I failed to buck the 400V and send them straight to the DC/DC converter which turned it into a black lump of sadness. You ain't running that one at 400V by just swapping resistors.
The surprising part is that the DC/DC converter runs happily form rectified mains, said 300V.
-----
Now this was Gen2. With Gen3 you can't pull all those tricks and most of all you can only pull any trick with the replacement logic board. But since the Mitsubishiski chargerski will be used there's no need to anyway.

youtube should have known better!



of course I had to!

dombutler wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 2:07 pm youtube should have known better!



of course I had to!

OMG, that is too funny, and thank you for your service, I'm sure they will have an Algorithm Meeting after this !!!

getting the shifter boot off [if you don't know what you are doing, is the equivalent of a German Rubik cube] naturally this needs to be deleted since the 3rd Gen Prius does not use a wiggler for changing gears! So how the hell are we gonna shift from Drive to Reverse and what not?

the rest was almost smooth sailing


I'm thinkin' Sawzall at this point

$38 bucks to the first person to tell me what that thing on top of the cross and key is?

A can opener. No, not CANopen. The things with the beans.

uhi22 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 5:52 pm A can opener. No, not CANopen. The things with the beans.

ha ha, maybe OpenCAN, I luv that, and yes it is a can opener, but what is it actually called ?

Hm, if it would have been flying around in the boot of a German VW, it just would be a Dosenöffner. But in your case, no clue

Gregski wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 7:53 pm ha ha, maybe OpenCAN, I luv that, and yes it is a can opener, but what is it actually called ?

It's a P-38.

(Oh, LOL, hence the hint that $38 to the person who identifies the P-38).

johu wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 7:55 amDon't spread myths

Damnit dude, why isn't this on the wiki?

I feed the full 400V into the stock HV input BUT I have changed the wiring internally. 400V go straight onto the dual-inverters DC bus. In addition the boost side of the buck/boost converter is also connected to said DC bus.

Describe how, so a child could do it.

Did you create new internal busbars or re-connect existing ones?

It then serves two functions:
- while driving it bucks down the 400V DC to 200V DC for the DC/DC to run on
- while charging it boosts rectified mains (~300V) onto the DC bus for battery charging

Both of these are also useful to know.

At some point I failed to buck the 400V and send them straight to the DC/DC converter which turned it into a black lump of sadness.

Failed in what manner? Software, or, had it wired back the original way and forgot not to give it too high a voltage?

So many lessons learned that no one wrote down! Why isn't any of this at least in any of the Gen 2 threads?

The surprising part is that the DC/DC converter runs happily form rectified mains, said 300V.

300V = Okay.
400V = No bueno. Check.

...

Isn't even a Gen2 thread, or a Prius thread, I'm dragging Greg's project log off into the boonies.

johu wrote: ↑Mon Jan 29, 2024 7:55 am Don't spread myths

This was the source of my propaganda:


[DRIVING] Audi A2 /w Prius Gen2 Transaxle & Inverter [FINISHED]

johu wrote: ↑Mon Mar 30, 2020 8:11 am ...
Battery-wise he will probably be using my remaining Leaf pack, wired for half voltage (180V).

Why I bought a Volkswagen:

Gregski wrote: ↑Tue Jan 30, 2024 2:31 am This was the source of my propaganda:

Ah yes, that was back then when I was going to use the low voltage Twizy motor.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Tue Jan 30, 2024 12:18 am Describe how, so a child could do it.

Will do, here: viewtopic.php?t=4545

just sum fun pics from the Inverter cook out video

Well, let's learn something:

it appears the stubby DC-DC Converter to fuse block wire/cable has a part number on it: 82112-47 030


well that's super helpful, they are calling it "WIRE, ENGINE ROOM, N. WIRING." sure, ok

so then I went after the still to be identified "Inverter Wire Harness" the rectangular plug appears to have two separate plugs in it