openinverter forum

OK, that's a tad more better

I'm a simple man, I see a hole, and I fill it !

I should have taken this next pic from across the street

so something like this with a reinforcement place in the back

"Paint it black, and put it back"

~ Lucky Costa

I just bombed it with black to get rid of the white, it will get a nice coat of textured rubbarized stuff to match the inside of the cab

a trial fit

when you're a one man band

nothing like drilling new holes in the floor you spent days filling holes in

so Our Mission should we choose to accept it: is to take a Lexus GS450h passenger side rod linkage automagical transmission and install it in a Chevy C10 manual transmission cab using a precision made aftermarket driver side cable operated shifter

reserved for some pics of the finished transmission cable linkage if and when my friends show up to help me, one says he has a cracked rib from working on his friend's GTzero and the other claims to have fallen off his bicycle into some strategically placed poison oak [again]

This is using B&M push pull cable designed for a dime a dozen American GM Turbo TH350 three-speed transmission


PARK

REVERSE

NEUTRAL

DRIVE

this is not for the faint of heart, lopping off about a foot of the OEM BMW 530e hybrid battery cable


What AWG would you say this is ?


I calipered the diameter of this OEM BMW 530e hybrid battery pack cable at 9 mm

so thinking something like this with some M6 ring terminals crimped on the ends

I also plan on running my DC DC Converter off of the same two studs on the Inverter, please let me know your thoughts on that idea


and now we wait...

Gregski wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 1:54 pm so thinking something like this with some M6 ring terminals crimped on the ends

I also plan on running my DC DC Converter off of the same two studs on the Inverter, please let me know your thoughts on that idea


IMG_3920.JPG


and now we wait...

AWG Crimps.jpg

That kit should come with every heavy-duty crimper! It's always the size/hole diameter that you don't have yet...

marcexec wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 6:20 pm That kit should come with every heavy-duty crimper! It's always the size/hole diameter that you don't have yet...

ha ha probably, I don't even flinch any more

Wait what are you doing with stainless steel M6 standoffs?

celeron55 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 9:54 pm Wait what are you doing with stainless steel M6 standoffs?

Well I was going for aluminum first but I heard they snap off so I bought these steel ones, is this a mistake, they are for the inverter positive and negative posts?

Gregski wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 10:03 pm Well I was going for aluminum first but I heard they snap off so I bought these steel ones, is this a mistake, they are for the inverter positive and negative posts?

Compared to aluminium and copper, stainless steel is a terrible conductor: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spezifischer_Widerstand (the English wikipedia uses different units..)

We have a specific resistivity of ~0.017 (Ohm * mm²) / m for copper, 0.1-0.2 (Ohm * mm²) / m for steel and 0.72 (Ohm * mm²) / m for V2A stainless steel.
Keep in mind: less is better, which means copper conducts 40x better than stainless steel.

crasbe wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2023 9:54 am Compared to aluminium and copper, stainless steel is a terrible conductor: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spezifischer_Widerstand (the English wikipedia uses different units..)

We have a specific resistivity of ~0.017 (Ohm * mm²) / m for copper, 0.1-0.2 (Ohm * mm²) / m for steel and 0.72 (Ohm * mm²) / m for V2A stainless steel.
Keep in mind: less is better, which means copper conducts 40x better than stainless steel.

message received, I appreciate that, I will use the variety pack just to determine the right length and then order some more better ones

Yeah, ballpark stainless is 50-100x as bad of a conductor as copper.

Brass is 4x as bad (decent).

Aluminum is 2x as bad (good, but aluminum is the soiled diaper of the materials world).

Big beefy motor terminals are usually brass, since they're close enough to copper and significantly more corrosion resistant.

Aluminium is a bad idea due to oxidation. You'd need nickel or tin coated aluminium or a purpose made contact grease and a dry environment.

Copper would be best, but you can't buy ready made copper standoffs. For ready made standoffs, brass is the only option.

Then, what I still would change about this idea:

Don't use threaded standoffs because copper or brass threads can't handle a lot of force. Use spacers with a clean hole through, and then use a steel bolt to tighten it along with the terminal. The bolt doesn't need to conduct. The inverter has a steel nut behind each terminal.

I really hope using a long stand off like a 1.5" will be ok cause I really don't want to redo the Inverter bracket


so this crimper aint the best, it leaves sharp edges, hence the file, now if you crimp in two steps, using something like a 35mm jaws then go down to 25mm ones you can sort of minimize the sharp edges, but if you just use the 25mm jaws you get a razer blade like edge to file away

time for a little Inverterectomy

some gentle persuasion was required

I almost had to use a cheater bar to get the bus bar screws loose


and here is a closer look at the flux capacitor in the wild

with that connector removed the bus bars need to be rebolted together, I used the old painter tape trick to keep the 10mm nut from falling into the abyss

Note: I'm a green belt painter taper, but you still may be a blue belt, that's ok, work with what you got and don't skip leg day !


you wanna torque these down to as hard as you can plus a quarter turn, jk !