openinverter forum

canadasconvert wrote: ↑Sun Jun 19, 2022 10:21 pm I am still having problems with the Inverter/Motor. Since my last post, I have made a few short trips around the bloc and everything was running well until the last trip. I had stopped at a stop sign and was slowly accelerating when the car bucked a couple of times and then no power. I had it towed home and am investigating what happened. I still have 348V of power and the Ign, Pre and Main Contactors are all working. The DC/DC converter is charging the battery so I have 13V at all times. UDC reads 1.48V with and without HV power. I also get the following errors:
[1]: WARN - PWMSTUCK
[65]: DERATE - CURRENT LIMIT

Hello. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great information and explanations being shared.

canadasconvert, I am curious if the firmware update solved your above issue or you needed to make any other parameter changes to solve it? I am having a similar problem that has popped up with the DERATE - CURRENT LIMIT error and STOP - OVERCURRENT error. The issue starts after full acceleration to full brake (then no response from inverter until a restart) and then I can move at very slow speed but with normal acceleration, I lurch forward or backward (in R) and then no power. I had to be towed home the other day ( the shameful return to my driveway for my wife to see) and now I am just nervous to drive the car again until I figure this out.

jsimonkeller wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 12:14 pm Hello. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the great information and explanations being shared.

canadasconvert, I am curious if the firmware update solved your above issue or you needed to make any other parameter changes to solve it? I am having a similar problem that has popped up with the DERATE - CURRENT LIMIT error and STOP - OVERCURRENT error. The issue starts after full acceleration to full brake (then no response from inverter until a restart) and then I can move at very slow speed but with normal acceleration, I lurch forward or backward (in R) and then no power. I had to be towed home the other day ( the shameful return to my driveway for my wife to see) and now I am just nervous to drive the car again until I figure this out.

We are going to need to see your parameter file. Download over the WiFi and post here.

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 5:35 pm We are going to need to see your parameter file. Download over the WiFi and post here.

Thanks. Here are my parameters, but with full disclosure, I am using the ZERO EV box/firmware, so some of the parameters may not match up with everything you are used to seeing. Hopefully, you can still provide some guidance.

boost 2000
fweak 240
fconst 350
udcnom 0
fslipmin 1.5
fslipmax 3.5
fslipconstmax 6
polepairs 2
roadspeedgain 8.15
encmode 1
fmin 0.12
fmax 600
fmaxrev 150
numimp 36
dirchrpm 1000
dirmode 3
pwmfrq 1
pwmpol 0
deadtime 63
ocurlim -2500
minpulse 1000
il1gain -1
il2gain -1
udcgain 7
udcofs 151.21
udclim 350
bmslimhigh 100
bmslimlow -20
udcmin 288
udcmax 350
iacmax 5000
idcmax 800
idcmin -100
tmphsmax 80
ifltrise 10
ifltfall 3
potmin 1335
potmax 3820
pot2min 1335
pot2max 3820
potmode 0
throtramp 100
throtramp2 50
throtramprpm 20000
throtmax 100
throtmax2 50.09
throtmaxrev 50
ampmin 10
slipstart 50
slipstart2 50
accelmax 45
accelmax2 22
accelflt 3
brknompedal -25
brknompedal2 -35
brkpedalramp 4
brkpedalramp2 5
brknom 30
brknom2 30
brkmax -22
brkmax2 -32
brklim -50
brkrampstr 50
brkrampstr2 50
brkout -25
speedkp 0.5
speedflt 5
cruisemode 2
udcsw 280
fanthresh 50
tripmode 1
outmode 2
canspeed 0
canperiod 1


If it is helpful to know, I am using the TESLA LDU with 14 Tesla Model S battery modules. ORION 2 BMS.

Are these settings as they came from Zero-EV? Have you reach out to them?

fslipmin is quite low for what I have seen in the past.

The udcofs 151.21 seems alot to me, has this been verified to be accurately reading through out the battery voltage?

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 9:40 pm Are these settings as they came from Zero-EV? Have you reach out to them?

fslipmin is quite low for what I have seen in the past.

I am in contact with them and they are awesome but not sure about this one. My build is off of a 78 Porsche 911SC Targa, so the settings are from another Porsche they did, but every build is different and they suggested I read up on all of the great work this community is doing and educate myself, so I dug in and wondered if you had any thoughts.

If I am out of line to post here and ask, I will go back into the shadows and just continue to read the posts and learn.

Thanks for the tip on fslipmin!

udcofs 151.21 was something I did to get the actual battery voltage reading from ORION to match the UDC spot value.

jsimonkeller wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 9:50 pm udcofs 151.21 was something I did to get the actual battery voltage reading from ORION to match the UDC spot value.

Yes but at what voltage level did you do this? as this is quite an offset and getting to that number you can also do by increasing the gain.
Try fixing it by increasing gain and leaving offset at 0. Then once battery is empty tune it again. Issue with this is that it will take quite some work to tune.

throtramp 100 - does this not make it very difficult to drive around slowly?

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 10:14 pm Yes but at what voltage level did you do this? as this is quite an offset and getting to that number you can also do by increasing the gain.
Try fixing it by increasing gain and leaving offset at 0. Then once battery is empty tune it again. Issue with this is that it will take quite some work to tune.

throtramp 100 - does this not make it very difficult to drive around slowly?

Thanks for the info on the offset vs. gain. I am at about 82% of charge right now (325v), so I was trying to match this voltage to the UDC spot value, which was reading 348v before the offset.

I reduced the throtramp way down this morning after pulling parameters. You were correct.

jsimonkeller wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 10:24 pm I reduced the throtramp way down this morning after pulling parameters. You were correct.

have a read of this and use this as some points on how current draw can be limited.

viewtopic.php?t=2558

Does the car cut out only after braking or also during acceleration?

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 10:35 pm have a read of this and use this as some points on how current draw can be limited.

viewtopic.php?t=2558

Does the car cut out only after braking or also during acceleration?

I will check it out now.

Car only cuts out AFTER braking and never on acceleration.

BTW, 0 offset and 7.5 gain did the trick to get voltage in line with ORION. Thanks for that!

Also, increased fslipmin to 2

I made some tweaks from the post link you sent and the work done by catphish.

boost 2600
fweak 280
fconst 350
udcnom 0
fslipmin 2
fslipmax 4
fslipconstmax 4

After these tweaks the STOP - OVERCURRENT errors have gone away. Now I am left with DERATE - CURRENT LIMIT error only.

What’s your voltage? UDCLIM being hit?

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 11:41 pm What’s your voltage? UDCLIM being hit?

Orion shows live voltage as 324.5v. Spot value was showing 348v until I entered the udcgain of 7.5.

I increased udclim to 400v.

In case anyone was interested in following my issue, I have been reading up on all of the tweaks catphish posted on current and also have also reviewed other parameters posted by others like jon volks. I was able to get rid of the faults and errors with the volks parameters (slightly modified for my voltage) and I noticed certain categories that had the larger variances from the settings that were generating the DERATE CURRENT LIMIT fault and the STOP OVER CURRENT ERROR. Here they are:

boost 1850 2000 2000 2000 2900
udcnom 390 0 0 0 0
fslipmin 0.87 1.5 2 1.5 2
fslipconstmax 9 6 4 6 3
dirchrpm 100 1000 1000 1000 100
idcmax 5000 800 800 800 500
idcmin -5000 -100 -100 -100 -500
ifltfall 0 3 3 3 3
amp min 0.37 15 10 10 10

The first column is Volks, 2nd column is the Zero EV settings for their 911, the 3rd and 4th columns were tweaks that I made from reviewing posts on here on that resulted in the DERATE CURRENT LIMIT fault only and the 5th column were adjustments I made after reading the post by catphish that did not solve my overcurrent error.

I have not tried to drive the car again yet, but I am curious which of these columns might have had the largest impact on the DERATE fault OVER CURRENT error.

jsimonkeller wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 6:01 pm STOP OVER CURRENT ERROR

The obvious setting that will cause STOP OVER CURRENT ERROR is the overcurrent hard limit (ocurlim). Without knowing what that limit it, it's difficult to guess why you might be hitting it.

With regard to DERATE CURRENT LIMIT current limit, the parameter you need to look at is the opvercurrent soft limit (iacmax). idcmax will also limit current but since you started with this at 5000A I will assume it's not the cause of your problems.

catphish wrote: ↑Thu Nov 03, 2022 7:17 pm The obvious setting that will cause STOP OVER CURRENT ERROR is the overcurrent hard limit (ocurlim). Without knowing what that limit it, it's difficult to guess why you might be hitting it.

With regard to DERATE CURRENT LIMIT current limit, the parameter you need to look at is the opvercurrent soft limit (iacmax). idcmax will also limit current but since you started with this at 5000A I will assume it's not the cause of your problems.

Thanks. I am using -2500 for the ocurlim with the il1gain and il2 gain both at -1. This was consistent on all parameter changes, so I left it out. Sorry.

iacmax was 5000 across columns 1-4 and in column 5 it was 800.

I kept the 5000 idcmax from the Volks parameters.

Greetings this trying to start my Tesla LDU with the load and precarious Nissan Leaf relay system this has a resistance of 30ohm and 40 watt, but the unit does not start me I do not know if it is by the Nissan system, but pin 6 is not activated to activate the main relay, also pin 12 of accelerator only takes me 3.4V and not 5V. No I don't know what happens I am thinking of changing the resistance for one of 100W as the diagram says to see what happens. What opinion do you have and how can you help me?

Looks like the PCB picture hasn't made it into the wiki yet: Are you getting 5V between pin 1 and 3 of LD1?

Can you please answer the question I asked you instead of just repeating what you said before...

Romale wrote: ↑Sat Oct 22, 2022 8:20 pm there is a link in the inverter settings browser via Wi-Fi: download the settings file. the browser will save the parameters file to the params.json
here, attach it here

Greetings I am trying to start my Tesla LDU with the loading and precarious Nissan Leaf relay system this has a resistance of 30 ohm and 40 watt, but the unit does not start me I do not know if it is by the Nissan system, but pin 6 is not activated to activate the main relay, also pin 12 of accelerator only takes me 3.4V and not 5V. No I don't know what happens I am thinking of changing the resistance for one of 100W as the diagram says to see what happens.

bmwx5projet wrote: ↑Mon Nov 07, 2022 12:12 pm Greetings I am trying to start my Tesla LDU ......also pin 12 of accelerator only takes me 3.4V and not 5V....

the resistance you're talking about doesn't matter in this situation.
Johu asked you the right question. Don't you want to answer it?
Or do you really not need help in solving the problem and you just decided to troll everyone with the same description?
Also, you still haven't attached your settings file.

Romale wrote: ↑Mon Nov 07, 2022 12:19 pm the resistance you're talking about doesn't matter in this situation.
Johu asked you the right question. Don't you want to answer it?
Or do you really not need help in solving the problem and you just decided to troll everyone with the same description?
Also, you still haven't attached your settings file.

Greetings brother of course I need help, sorry but I do not understand very well how this forum works I have to familiarize myself with it, I am not very cybernetic, there is a photo of a bank and I do not know how to remove it. As for the engine, when I come home from work I'll see how I do with the file you tell me. we're on touch.

johu wrote: ↑Mon Nov 07, 2022 8:01 am Can you please answer the question I asked you instead of just repeating what you said before...

Greetings Johu, now I'll be at work, when I get back I'll see if the 5V is there and I'll tell you, if it's not, what's next?

Click on the to edit your post and delete the lines which aren't human readable? Like [ ] etc...

johu wrote: ↑Sun Nov 06, 2022 6:37 pm Looks like the PCB picture hasn't made it into the wiki yet:
image.png

Are you getting 5V between pin 1 and 3 of LD1?

Greetings, I measured the voltage is 3.4V

bmwx5projet wrote: ↑Tue Nov 08, 2022 9:45 pm Greetings, I measured the voltage is 3.4V

Ok, so the 5V regulator does not produce 5V.
Now what is the voltage on C6? What is the feedback voltage, i.e. across R33? What is the total current draw of the board? Can you post a high res picture of your board? Where did you obtain the board?