openinverter forum

Evening all,

After a couple of requests, here's my design for an enclosure that can be sealed to make the HV battery terminals watertight for the GS 450H Inverter (stl files attached to the bottom of this post).

It bolts down to the 2 M6 bolts used by the original. Because of the flat base it needs a couple of washers under each side to keep an even pressure on the flat plane which needs to be sealed with gasket sealant.

The divider in the middle is there to help prevent physical movement rather than to provide electrical insulation as it doesn't extend below the flat plane so you'll need to use an appropriate insulation sleeve for your brass standoff posts.

The standoffs themselves would ideally be between 30-40mm. The picture above is with a 30 mm standoff which is probably as small as you could use.

The cable glands you will need are M25x1.5. They are pictured above in a test block with 35mm² shielded cable on the left and a 50mm² unshielded cable on the right which both form a tight fit. There is an M25 thread incorporated into the enclosure design so the backnut isn't needed.

Once installed, a bit of gasket sealant should secure the lid and help to keep everything watertight. I hope this is useful if you're intending to use this inverter in the future.

Question: Why you didn't add 3 small screws to secure the lid?
Like some extra material in the corners and some simple screws would secure it.

Nice work though makes me wish for an 3D printer too...

Thanks for sharing your great work James, downloaded!

Thanks guys, hope it's useful

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Sat Jun 12, 2021 5:24 pm Question: Why you didn't add 3 small screws to secure the lid?

It's a good question. When printed the lid snaps in place really well (obviously depends on your print settings) and makes a good secure fitting with friction. It is removable (with a bit of force) until you're ready to secure it with gasket sealant and at that point, if you want to take it off you'd be destroying the part either way so it'd be better to print a new part to replace it with.

See, this right here is what I love about this forum. I have no skills, software, or equipment for this sort of thing, but I just placed my order for online 3D printing. $63 total. Thanks, James!

Happy to help. Any issues please let me know and I can modify the design. As a tip it’s worth installing the glands and lugged cables into the enclosure first before test fitting it to the inverter. You may need to run the glands through the threaded holes a couple of times to tap them out in case your print has any extrusion issues. When you’re ready to fit them properly, put a dab of gasket sealant on the thread of each gland and secure firmly. It prints best without support material.

Thanks for posting your hard work up to use!

Do you know if this design is compatible with the brass standoffs that Damien sells? (20mm OD top hat, 36mm and 46mm lengths)

Probably, these 30mm M6 Standoffs from ebay with a 16mm Outer Diameter would also do fine. Just remember to add insulation.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323796464699 ... SwyrlcwboJ

I've done a quick measurement of the max radius of each standoff and it looks like you might just be able to get away with using Damien's 36mm standoffs with this design. If they are a little high though it's just a simple fix by raising the gland height a few millimetres in the design so let me know and I can make a Damien Standoff Edition

Ok, no please don't make anything new on my behalf. I am making my own standoffs based on the designs Damien shared, so I can modify them to suit your enclosure.
Actually the brass bar I bought from eBay cost more than those standoffs you've just posted which is a little annoying!
I'm now looking at buying a cheapish 3D printer to have a go at printing the enclosure myself, should be interesting

No worries, at least if you’re able to turn the bar yourself you can get a better shape from it.

Dan--T wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 7:44 am … I'm now looking at buying a cheapish 3D printer to have a go at printing the enclosure myself, should be interesting

Good luck, I’ve had a lot of success with the Ender 3 V2 but the max print temp is 260°c which isn’t quite enough for Carbon Fibre reinforced Polycarbonate which is the gold standard. Going to try Carbon Fibre Nylon next as it prints at a lower temperature. Just don’t buy a Flying Bear Ghost 5 from AliExpress. Mine caught fire!

james@N52E01 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 2:12 pm No worries, at least if you’re able to turn the bar yourself you can get a better shape from it.

Dan--T wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 7:44 am … I'm now looking at buying a cheapish 3D printer to have a go at printing the enclosure myself, should be interesting

Good luck, I’ve had a lot of success with the Ender 3 V2 but the max print temp is 260°c which isn’t quite enough for Carbon Fibre reinforced Polycarbonate which is the gold standard. Going to try Carbon Fibre Nylon next as it prints at a lower temperature. Just don’t buy a Flying Bear Ghost 5 from AliExpress. Mine caught fire!

The Ender 3 V2 is what I've bought, been printing lots of PLA to practice, going to attempt your enclosure in PETG next!

Awesome, I’ve not tried printing PETG yet. Let us know how you get on

Going well so far!

james@N52E01 wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 2:12 pm No worries, at least if you’re able to turn the bar yourself you can get a better shape from it.

Dan--T wrote: ↑Sun Aug 01, 2021 7:44 am … I'm now looking at buying a cheapish 3D printer to have a go at printing the enclosure myself, should be interesting

Good luck, I’ve had a lot of success with the Ender 3 V2 but the max print temp is 260°c which isn’t quite enough for Carbon Fibre reinforced Polycarbonate which is the gold standard. Going to try Carbon Fibre Nylon next as it prints at a lower temperature. Just don’t buy a Flying Bear Ghost 5 from AliExpress. Mine caught fire!

Carbon fiber blocks the print nozzle and can cause increased wear to extruder/hotend components, I don't recommend it.

Well the print came out lovely But having some issues fitting.
The spacing between the two bolt holes is a few mm too short. I need to confirm if this is my printers accuracy that is at fault and measure it up against the cad model. It's not a big deal I can file it out a little. And today my cable glands arrived, but unfortunately seems there isn't enough space between the two threaded holes for the two glands to screw in side by side, did you find two glands that fit? Could you send me a link to them if so? Thanks
Dan

Dan--T wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 9:09 pm The spacing between the two bolt holes is a few mm too short. I need to confirm if this is my printers accuracy that is at fault and measure it up against the cad model. It's not a big deal I can file it out a little.

There was similar on my printing too. I think because M25 cable glands thread fit nicely it is not printer accuracy.

And today my cable glands arrived, but unfortunately seems there isn't enough space between the two threaded holes for the two glands to screw in side by side, did you find two glands that fit?

There might be different cable glands, mine was like those gray ones which was in my case plausible but tight fit. Screw one in, align its flat side of the hexagonal nut against another cable gland and another one should be able to tighten just barely.

And many many thanks to James for sharing this enclosure!!

Dan--T wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 9:09 pm The spacing between the two bolt holes is a few mm too short. I need to confirm if this is my printers accuracy that is at fault and measure it up against the cad model. It's not a big deal I can file it out a little.

Thanks for posting this. That’s my bad, I had the same issue as well, the post holes were a few mm too close together in both directions. I corrected the model but must have uploaded the old version, sorry. To correct it I just ran a 6mm drill bit (by hand, not in a drill) up and down a few times to widen it out slightly. I’ll update the model when at home next week.

Dan--T wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 9:09 pm
And today my cable glands arrived, but unfortunately seems there isn't enough space between the two threaded holes for the two glands to screw in side by side, did you find two glands that fit? Could you send me a link to them if so?
20210901_215508.jpg

Thanks
Dan

Glad the print came out well Dan. I’ve looked into the gland size issue. Very helpfully, the specs tell you the thread for the hole but not for the gland part on the other side. There are a range of sizes and the ones you have are the bigger ones. I can get some eBay links for the ones you want if that would help but essentially you’re okay with any glands that have the same thread (m25) on both sides. Example below:

Thanks for the reply James. I want to point out that I'm in no way disgruntled or blaming you, you've taken the time to design this and post it for free and I'm really grateful for that!

The bolt holes aren't a problem, I've made them both oval with a needle file and it fits now.

Thanks for posting up the gland type, I'll have another look on eBay for ones with M25 on both sides of the nut!

Glad you were able to make it fit Dan thanks, I’m always happy to get a bit of constructive criticism, that way the next person doesn’t encounter the same problems. Let us know how you get on.

Got some nice new slimline cable glands and now fit perf ctly!

These ones work
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07JZ5 ... asin_title

Thanks
Dan

Nice work Dan! Let us know when it’s up and running. The HV orange looks very nice as well

Here's my simple implementation.
Two posts made out of 3/4" diameter brass rod machined down to 16mm, each with a 6mm hole for the bolt.
A 55 x 30 x 20 block of polypropylene foam cut with a sharp scalpel into an oval shape slightly larger than the hole in the inverter with two 14mm holes of centres spaced by 25mm cut into the foam and jammed into the oval hole and around the brass posts. The 14mm holes were cut into the foam with a sharpened piece of 14mm OD steel tubing (sharpened with a countersinking drill bit) spinning slowly on the lathe.

No hacksaw required.

Greetings EV World.

In Damien's last video he mentions making the HV DC connections to these points in the GS450H inverter and not the OEM location, from the previous Prius inverter videos, was under the impression that was only for Prius Inverter only.



Can someone confirm which side is positive and negative?
The OEM HV is listed above:

Left (-) | (+) RIGHT When connecting a Ohm Meter, for the brass studs, the (-) is on the RIGHT, and the (+) does not make any noise or contact.

Can we confirm which side is HV DC Positive, and Negative.

This important safety info should be on WIKI.

If only someone had demonstrated this 3 years ago .... oh wait :