openinverter forum

I did a search on this forum, but didn't get a straight answer.

Is it important to have CAN2 for the shunt or is CAN1 just fine?

I ask, because the IVT-S-1K-U3-I-CAN1-12/24 is in stock from a source I can get from, but not the CAN2 model.

This is in particular for a Zombieverter VCU for a Gen2 Nissan Leaf stack.

Many thanks,

CAN1 has internal CAN termination resistor. You need to have 2 termination resistors, ideally at the 'ends' of the bus.
It really isn't too fussy at low bitrates over short distances.
With a Leaf stack you may have to be more careful, just remember that you have a resistor in your shunt.

In my haste, I purchased a CAN1 internally terminated shunt without knowing any better. Using zombieverter and Lexus inverter (LS600H). What kind of issues should I look out for?
Thanks for your help

Pretty sure you can open it up and remove the termination resistor This is inside my unterminated, if you can find the termination resistor on yours and desolder it, it'll be then unterminated If it's the same PCB, there's a couple of unpopulated pads, maybe it has 2 x 60R instead of a single 120R

Bigpie wrote: ↑Thu Feb 16, 2023 9:07 am Pretty sure you can open it up and remove the termination resistor
20211123_154108.jpg
This is inside my unterminated, if you can find the termination resistor on yours and desolder it, it'll be then unterminated If it's the same PCB, there's a couple of unpopulated pads, maybe it has 2 x 60R instead of a single 120R

Thank you!
Mine has 2x 60ohm resistors in series and a capacitor in between. Does the capacitor need to be removed too?

yep, take em off, mine looks to not have all 3.

Well if they're all in series then really you only need to remove one, right?

I'd remove both resistors to be sure, but I'm no expert.

Oh, that's interesting. In that case, I agree!