openinverter forum

Been reading through the mega thread for LDU teardown and maintenance and have been swimming in so much new information. As I'm still going through it all I figured I'd ask my question in a new thread anyway.

I'm currently ready to drop a bunch of cash on components for my conversion project and have settled on a Tesla LDU to spin the wheels. It would seem that ALL versions of the LDU have had issues with coolant leaks and also had issues with bearings until they switched over to the silicon nitride units. Which version of the LDU should people be considering? I've no problem opening up the motors and doing some maintenance but just want to set myself up for success as much as possible. I know that the QC Charge coolant delete is a solution to help prevent coolant leaks... but the DU itself has to be rebuilt in order for the delete mod to be worth it.

I don't think there's a specific revision that is "better" than others. Earlier revisions had some bearing problems unrelated to the leaks, and all have the potential for leaks.

What I would advise is doing as much due diligence on the specific unit as possible. Obviously with Ebay listings it's difficult/impossible, but if you can see the unit in person before buying, I would do the following:

- A diode test using the procedure outlined in the link below but rather than pulling the whole inverter cover off, open the small bus bar cover on the back of the drive unit (requires a torx bit) to get to the phase outputs and you can access in the DC inputs from the side of the drive unit.


- remove the encoder on the motor side of the unit, to inspect for coolant ingress. I think the bolts a 10mm?

Whether in person or an online listing, make sure the stickers on the unit match what you are being sold. A unit from a P-designation car should say its a Sport unit and the motor and inverter stickers should match. I've seen some listings claiming a performance unit but it was a base.