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	<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Romale</id>
	<title>openinverter.org wiki - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Romale"/>
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	<updated>2026-04-29T18:48:29Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Mitsubishi_Outlander_Rear_Drive_Unit&amp;diff=4105</id>
		<title>Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Drive Unit</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Mitsubishi_Outlander_Rear_Drive_Unit&amp;diff=4105"/>
		<updated>2023-10-17T22:30:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Romale: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Forum board&#039;&#039;&#039;: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=19&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&lt;br /&gt;
!Property&lt;br /&gt;
!Value&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Device&lt;br /&gt;
|Combined Motor, Gearbox and Rear Differential&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|OEM&lt;br /&gt;
|Mitsubishi&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Type&lt;br /&gt;
|AC Motor 8 Pole 3 Phase synchronous perm magnet brushless&lt;br /&gt;
|https://www.secondlife-evbatteries.com/meiden-ev-motor-60kw-9300rpm.html&lt;br /&gt;
https://youtube.com/shorts/44d0oVFn65k?si=PGjDBKYoHPsX_md7&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&amp;amp;t=325&amp;amp;start=30&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Manufacturer&lt;br /&gt;
|Meidensha&lt;br /&gt;
|https://www.meidensha.com/products/case/prod_05/prod_05_01/prod_05_01_01/prod_05_01_01_01/1210605_4260.html&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Suppliers&lt;br /&gt;
|Ebay, Second Life EV Batteries&lt;br /&gt;
|https://www.secondlife-evbatteries.com/meiden-ev-motor-60kw-9300rpm.html&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Max RPM&lt;br /&gt;
|9600RPM&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Mechanical Mounting&lt;br /&gt;
|6x 55mm M10x1.25 &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Fine Thread&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; Bolt front face flange (all in same plane)&lt;br /&gt;
3x 30mm M12x.25 &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;Fine Thread&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; Bolt Rear Flange (all in same plane) used for bush mount on Outlander&lt;br /&gt;
|Author experience&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shaft Type&lt;br /&gt;
|20.02mm 18 splines, ~60mm long&lt;br /&gt;
Clutch plate from a Suzuki Jimny SJ410 appears to fit, part number ADK83106&lt;br /&gt;
|https://www.secondlife-evbatteries.com/meiden-ev-motor-60kw-9300rpm.html&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Resolver&lt;br /&gt;
|SIN COS - P/N C69600/TS2239N484E102&lt;br /&gt;
Believed to be similar to Nissan Leaf resolver&lt;br /&gt;
|https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMNz2BVPSATZFJxgwIvy0RAeNAwn0TLJJL7NBwxbpH32LbWNkGhybiNrdkTsTOLxg?key=TmNWY04zNFQ4cXZzNWUzUEJfcTZUeGtHVkxyZEtB&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cooling&lt;br /&gt;
|Water/glycol cooling (Blue on Outlander)&lt;br /&gt;
|Author experience&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Weight&lt;br /&gt;
|42kg motor, 15.5kg differential, 3kg brackets&lt;br /&gt;
|https://www.secondlife-evbatteries.com/meiden-ev-motor-60kw-9300rpm.html, https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=60558#p60558&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Power To Weight Ratio&lt;br /&gt;
|70kW Motor: 1.66 kW/kg&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Diff Ratio&lt;br /&gt;
|7.065:1&lt;br /&gt;
|http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.hk/uploads/file_1465376705.pdf&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Motor Part Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
|9499D146    (01/08/13 &amp;gt; 30/09/17)         GG2W 2000 plug in hybrid&lt;br /&gt;
|Mitsubishi Outlander Online Parts Catalogue&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Motor Part Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
|9411A078   (01/05/18 &amp;gt; )                         GG2W 2000 plug in hybrid&lt;br /&gt;
|Mitsubishi Outlander Online Parts Catalogue&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Motor Part Numbers&lt;br /&gt;
|9411A078    (01/05/18 &amp;gt;)           GG3W 2400 plug in hybrid&lt;br /&gt;
|Mitsubishi Outlander Online Parts Catalogue&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3D Printable Parts&lt;br /&gt;
|3 Phase &amp;amp; Resolver &lt;br /&gt;
|https://github.com/SomersetEV/mitsubishi-outlander-rear-motor-3d-printed-parts&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Example Ebay Listing&#039;&#039;&#039;:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Example Ebay Listing.png|thumb|alt=|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;Description&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV (Plug-in Hybrid) uses 3x AC motor/generators - 2 in the front gearbox (One is designated as a generator) and 1 in the rear. The rear motor appears to be the more powerful of the 3, and it is coupled to a rear differential unit which is mounted underneath the vehicle. The Rear differential has female driveshaft splines and a ratio of 7.065:1. The motor is driven by a dedicated rear inverter unit, and the combined system appears to have different power ratings in different model years. The whole unit could lend itself well to rear engined/rear wheel drive EV conversion applications - e.g. Toyota MR2, VW Beetle, rear engined Porsches, Lotus. Brat Industries has a shaft adapter that allows various flanges. The Motor can also be easily decoupled from the Gearbox/Differential unit and with an adaptor plate and coupling could be used on either Front wheel drive applications, or Front engined, rear wheel drive. There are already some examples of the drive being used with the OpenInverter, and also with the OEM motor inverter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Power Rating&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is possible that the motor is the same for all model years (all use the Y61 designation) and either inverter is different or increased power output is from software only. 2018 models have 13.6kWh battery rather than 12kWh.&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! Model Years !! Motor Power !! Motor Torque !! Part Number&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| TBC - TBC || 50 kW || TBC || Y61&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| TBC - 2018 || 60 kW || 195Nm Peak @ 0-4500rpm || Y61&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 2018 - || 70 kW || 195Nm Peak @ 0-4500rpm|| Y61&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mitsubishi/FUSO part numbers include 9411A078&amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;https://www.mitsubishidirectparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-motor-assembly-9411a078 (Backup: [http://web.archive.org/web/20230911185440/https://www.mitsubishidirectparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-motor-assembly-9411a078 Web Archive])&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;, 9499D132, 9499D146&#039;&#039;&#039;,&#039;&#039;&#039; and MEIDEN part numbers include F1E1A2B5Z&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==&#039;&#039;&#039;Connectors&#039;&#039;&#039;==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===High Voltage===&lt;br /&gt;
3x 3 phase lug connections with HV gland plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Signal Connector===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resolver/Temperature sensor: Hirose GT18WB-14DS-HU&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Datasheet: https://www.hirose.com/product/document?clcode=&amp;amp;productname=&amp;amp;series=GT18W&amp;amp;documenttype=Catalog&amp;amp;lang=en&amp;amp;documentid=D49386_en&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resolver Connector Colours/Resistance:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
R12 - 35,5R Black, White&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
S13 - 86,4R Green, Red&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
S24 - 78,5R Yelow, Blue&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The polarity of all six wires have to be correct in order for the motor to work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resolver/Temperature sensor OEM cable/harness part number: [https://www.mitsubishipartsstore.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-harness-8556a131 8556A131] (can be used as a source for the connector if stock of the Hirose connector isn&#039;t available)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Pinout of Resolver/Temperature Sensor connector:====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Rear-drive-pinout.png|thumb|alt=]]&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&lt;br /&gt;
!Pin&lt;br /&gt;
!Label&lt;br /&gt;
!Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|Not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|TG2&lt;br /&gt;
|Temperature sensor 2 ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|TG1&lt;br /&gt;
|Temperature sensor 1 ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|RGND&lt;br /&gt;
|Resolver ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5&lt;br /&gt;
| S4&lt;br /&gt;
|Cos connection&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|S3 &lt;br /&gt;
|Sin connection&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|R2&lt;br /&gt;
|Exciter connection&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 8&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|Not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9&lt;br /&gt;
|TH2&lt;br /&gt;
| Temperature sensor 2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|10&lt;br /&gt;
|TH1&lt;br /&gt;
|Temperature sensor 1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|11&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|Not used&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|12&lt;br /&gt;
|S2&lt;br /&gt;
|Cos connection&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|13&lt;br /&gt;
|S1&lt;br /&gt;
|Sin connection&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|14&lt;br /&gt;
|R1&lt;br /&gt;
|Exciter connection&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==&#039;&#039;&#039;Vehicle Wiring Diagrams&#039;&#039;&#039;==&lt;br /&gt;
http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/outlander_phev/online/Service_Manual_2014/2019/index_M1.htm&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Mechanical Dimensions==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Outer Dimensions===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Outlander Rear Motor Face.jpg|alt=Outlander Rear Motor Face|thumb|Outlander Rear Motor Face|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Outlander Rear Motor Length.jpg|alt=Outlander Rear Motor Length|thumb|Outlander Rear Motor Length|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==References==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:OEM]] &lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Mitsubishi]] &lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Motor]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Romale</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Schematics_and_Instructions&amp;diff=2498</id>
		<title>Schematics and Instructions</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Schematics_and_Instructions&amp;diff=2498"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T12:33:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Romale: /* Forward and reverse */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The kit is split into seven individual PCBs: the main board hosting the STM32, 2 current sensor boards, a voltage sense board and 3 gate driver boards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have a kit with the large sensor board, look here for instructions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== General instructions ==&lt;br /&gt;
Check out the assembly video.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The names of the individual parts are printed on the PCBs. The kits info sheet contains the BOM for all boards. (Look [https://openinverter.org/docs/index.html%3Fen_bom,16.html here] for older BOMs) Assemble the PCBs accordingly. Whenever applying power, make sure to set a sane current limit as to not feed too much energy into a possible fault. Especially before inserting the STM32-H103 module make sure that the power supply is at the correct level (5V) and being fed to the correct pins. Test each PCB individually before connecting it to the system.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When populating the PCBs be advised that parts are VERY hard to remove in one piece unless you have a hot air gun. So make sure you insert them correctly especially parts that have a Pin 1 marking (all integrated circuits and resistor network RN1 on the main board).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Schematics ==&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic main v2.png|Main Board&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic_voltage_sense_board.png|Voltage Sense Board&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic_gate_driver.png|Gate Driver&lt;br /&gt;
Schematic current sense board.png|Current Sense Board&lt;br /&gt;
Wiring.png|System Diagram&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Errata ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Errata Voltage Sense 1.jpg|thumb|203x203px|Connect R9 to GND]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are some glitches which can be easily fixed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. The socket for the external signals (JP5) has the pins mirrored. This causes the pins to show up on unexpected ribbon cables. Here is the map when looking from the top:&lt;br /&gt;
 1 3 5 7  9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25&lt;br /&gt;
 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26&lt;br /&gt;
This results in the ribbon cable map:&lt;br /&gt;
 2 1 4 3 6 5 8 7 10 9 12 11 14 13 16 15 18 17 20 19 22 21 24 23 26 25&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Errata Voltage Sense 2.jpg|thumb|205x205px|Connect JP1.2 to VCC]]&lt;br /&gt;
2. There is a glitch on the new Voltagse Sense Board. The temp sensor polarity is sort of swapped. So connect resistor R9 to the closest GND source (instead of VCC). Connect Pin 2 of JP1 to the closest VCC source. See pictures on the right for details.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. On Windows you might need an older version of the serial port driver, [https://www.openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&amp;amp;t=57 if you&#039;re having issues].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Using the web interface ==&lt;br /&gt;
The included Olimex MOD-WIFI-ESP8266 is preloaded with an easy to use [[Web Interface]]. Connect to mainboard JP6 like so&lt;br /&gt;
* Pin 1 of Wifi to Pin 2 on mainboard (3.3V) (note Pin 1 is now 5V!, schematic not yet updated)&lt;br /&gt;
* Pin 2 of Wifi to Pin 5 on mainboard (GND, next to inductor)&lt;br /&gt;
* Pin 3 of Wifi to Pin 3 on main board&lt;br /&gt;
* Pin 4 of Wifi to Pin 4 on main board&lt;br /&gt;
The ESP8266 acts as a wifi access point. SSID and password are printed on the instructions sheet included with you kit. Connect to the access point, then open your browser and type 192.168.4.1 to open the web interface. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Firmware Upgrade ==&lt;br /&gt;
The STM32-H103 comes with a bootloader and a current software version. Both configuration and software updates are done via the Wifi interface. To update the inverter firmware extract the stm32_sine.bin and upload it via the &amp;quot;Update&amp;quot; form of the web interface. The update takes about 2s and when it is finished the green LED should flash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make sure you&#039;re not running a plot or gauges during firmware upgrade!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can also customize the web interface itself by replacing the respective files like index.html, index.js etc. Upload them with the same form as the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting the sensor boards ==&lt;br /&gt;
The sensor boards are connected to JP4. The provided 10-pole ribbon cable must be inserted into the socket as shown. 3 slots must be blank on either side of the 16-pole socket. Connect the boards like so:&lt;br /&gt;
# Current sensor module 1: JP4 Pin 6 to J1 Pin 1, JP4 Pin 7 to J1 Pin 2 and JP4 Pin 8 to J1 Pin 3&lt;br /&gt;
# Current sensor module 1: JP4 Pin 9 to J1 Pin 1, JP4 Pin 10 to J1 Pin 2 and JP4 Pin 11 to J1 Pin 3&lt;br /&gt;
# Voltage sense module: JP4 Pin 13 to JP2 Pin 1, JP4 Pin Pin 4 to JP2 Pin 2, JP4 Pin 5 to JP2 Pin 3, JP4 Pin 12 to JP2 Pin 4&lt;br /&gt;
# Temperature sensor: Connect to voltage sense board JP1&lt;br /&gt;
Current values are only measured in Run mode, so tie Pin 11 and 17 to 12V and type&lt;br /&gt;
 start 2&lt;br /&gt;
Now verify the values by typing&lt;br /&gt;
 get tmphs,il1,il2,udc&lt;br /&gt;
This command will display all 4 values. To repeat the command, simply type &amp;quot;!&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current sensor gain depends on it&#039;s distance to the conductor (including the isolation). Your AC cable must run on the underside of the PCB between the pins of the sensor IC. Use a cable tie for mounting. The PCB should be placed far away from other high currents to prevent cross-talk. To increase your current range simple put a spacer between cable and PCB.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To calibrate the current, set il1gain and il2gain to 1. Then put a known current through the sensors by winding for example a 1.5mm² cable 10 times through both sensors. Then, using you lab power supply run 5A through your wound cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The new Melexis sensors cannot have cable wound through them. So you need to attach them in their final positions and then pass current through the phase wire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Type:&lt;br /&gt;
 set ocurlim 1000&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 start 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 get il1,il2&lt;br /&gt;
You will get something like&lt;br /&gt;
 95.32&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 98.12&lt;br /&gt;
The gain factor is calculated by g=Ireading/(Iref*N) (Ireading: reply from get, Iref: reference current, e.g. 5A, N: number of turns through sensor, e.g. 10). So for our example il1gain=95.32/(5*10)=1.9064 and il2gain=98.12/(5*10)=1.9624. So type&lt;br /&gt;
 set il1gain 1.91&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set il2gain 1.96&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 save&lt;br /&gt;
Calibration is crucial to ensure correct operation of the over current limit!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your current sensor gains are negative then your &#039;ocurlim&#039; also needs to be negative!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Likewise you need to calibrate the voltage sensor board. Type (or set on web interface)&lt;br /&gt;
 set udcgain 1&lt;br /&gt;
 set udcofs 0&lt;br /&gt;
Now make sure the input to the sensor board is disconnected. Get the value of udc and write it to udcofs:&lt;br /&gt;
 get udc&lt;br /&gt;
 500.00&lt;br /&gt;
 set udcofs 500&lt;br /&gt;
Now connect a known voltage to the input, the higher, the more accurate the calibration is. If your test voltage is 100V and udc reads 450V then you need to set udcgain=450/100=4.5&lt;br /&gt;
 set udcgain 4.5&lt;br /&gt;
 save&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting the gate drivers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The steps from here on will only work with the &amp;quot;sine&amp;quot; software, not the FOC software&#039;&#039;&#039;. So temporarily flash that, you can revert later on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the gate drivers with a ribbon cable like shown in the picture. Power up the inverter, which will now pull around 300mA @ 12V. If its less, one or more gate drivers are unpowered, if its more, there is an error on the drivers or the connection. Remove power quickly in that case. The inrush current is higher of course, so set the current limit of your power supply to about 1A.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When all is fine, connect pin 11, 13 and 17 to 12V as well to overcome the hardware PWM inhibit logic.  Now type&lt;br /&gt;
 start 2&lt;br /&gt;
This will start sine wave generation. Type&lt;br /&gt;
 set fslipspnt 1&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set ampnom 1&lt;br /&gt;
This outputs a clean 50/50 duty cycle on all 6 PWM outputs. Verify this with a scope on the main board, the gate driver inputs and the gate driver outputs. Also verify that there is about 1.5µs dead time between GTOP and GBOT.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the sensor board has to stay connected at all times, otherwise the over current protection will kick in due to an implausible signal. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting the IGBTs ==&lt;br /&gt;
Now you are ready for some more power. Connect the gate drivers to the IGBTs and repeat the steps above. The slope of the PWM will be less steep as to show that the gate driver is really working against the gates capacity. Connect a small voltage (like 30V) to the DC bus and verify that the PWM shows on the IGBT modules outputs and looks the same on all outputs. This circuit is completely symmetrical so the output should be symmectrical as well. If its not, there might be something wrong. There must be absolutely 0 current flow on the DC bus, otherwise you are experiencing shoot-through, i.e. the top and bottom IGBT of one leg are on at the same time. Correct this before continuing! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting the motor ==&lt;br /&gt;
Now comes the big one. Connect a motor to the three output phases. Leave the DC voltage at a small value but make sure it can supply enough current (more than 10A). But also make sure to limit the possible current e.g. with a fuse. Now type&lt;br /&gt;
 set fweak 10&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 start 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set fslipspnt 10&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set ampnom 100&lt;br /&gt;
This will start the inverter at 10Hz and the motor should spin at the corresponding speed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now type&lt;br /&gt;
 stop&lt;br /&gt;
to stop the inverter. Connect the voltage that you actually want to run at to the DC input. Before turning on, you must configure the frequency/voltage curve. Therefor you have to do some math with your motors nameplate values. You need to calculate the frequency at which the motor can be driven with the maximum output voltage. Beyond that point, the motor operates in the field weakening region, therefor the parameter is called fweak. This calculates as follows: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So for a DC bus voltage of 350V, a nameplate frequency of 60Hz and a nameplace voltage of 200V you get fweak=60Hz x (350V/1.41)/200V = 74.5Hz. Now type&lt;br /&gt;
 set fweak 74.5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 start 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set fslipspnt 10&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set ampnom 100&lt;br /&gt;
The motor should spin as it did before but at its nomimal nameplate torque. You can try different frequencies. Should the motor only spin very shortly and stop, you might be hitting the current limit. It can be modified e.g. to 200A with&lt;br /&gt;
 set ocurlim -200&lt;br /&gt;
If all is working save the current parameter set by typing&lt;br /&gt;
 save&lt;br /&gt;
Alternatively you can use the python-script tuning.py to try and determine the parameters automatically. Start it in a linux console by typing&lt;br /&gt;
 python tuning.py -d /dev/ttyUSB0 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting the speed sensor ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:PulseEncoder.jpg|thumb|227x227px|Pulse Encoder]]&lt;br /&gt;
This board has been designed with optical encoders in mind. So it supplies 30mA on pin 2 for an IR diode. Pin 3 expects an open collector pulse signal. The picture shows a very exposed version of such a sensor which explains the principle very well though. The controller needs to know how many pulses it gets per turn of the shaft. It also needs to know the number of pole pairs of your motor. You can deduce that from the nameplate or data sheet. Type&lt;br /&gt;
 set numimp 64&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set polepairs 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 start 2&lt;br /&gt;
The motor should now spin up smoothly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that this controller only supports up to about 10000 pulses per second. So for example if you plan to spin your motor up to 10000 rpm which is 166.7 1/s the encoder mustn&#039;t generate more than 60 pulses per turn. The limit is imposed by the low pass filter and can be changed by populating a different resistor R3.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some encoders require more than the provided 30mA. In that case replace R2 by a bridge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting the throttle pot ==&lt;br /&gt;
The throttle needs a 5V source. It depends on your encoder type. If you have a simple 1-channel encoder you can populate R1 with a wire and use Pin 1 as 5V. If you use an advanced quadrature encoder, replace R7 with a wire and use Pin 2 as 5V for both throttle and encoder. Connect pot GND to Pin 23 (or some other GND source) and the slider to pin 6. Type&lt;br /&gt;
 get pot&lt;br /&gt;
When the pot is at &amp;quot;full throttle&amp;quot; the value must be higher than if it is completely released. Write down the maximum and minimum value, add/subtract a bit of slack (like 10-20 digits) and tell the controller by typing&lt;br /&gt;
 set potmin 2000&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 set potmax 3000&lt;br /&gt;
Now the pots position can be correctly translated to %. When completely released, you get -30% for regen (can be adjusted with parameter brkmax), at full throttle you get close to 100% for acceleration. Verify by typing&lt;br /&gt;
 get potnom&lt;br /&gt;
If the pot value leaves the window defined by potmin and potmax the throttle command is set to 0 and the error light is triggered. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Running slip control ==&lt;br /&gt;
Now start the controller in slip control mode by typing&lt;br /&gt;
 start 1&lt;br /&gt;
As you reach 30% of throttle travel the motor should start spinning. The harder you press the more it will accelerate until it reaches its maximum speed (parameter fmax, preconfigured to 200Hz). When you let go the throttle the motor will brake to a standstill.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the whole setup is inside your car you can play with various parameters for fine tuning. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting precharge and main contactor ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Precharge.png|thumb|Contactor connection]]&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the precharge relay and the main contactor as depicted in the diagram. It is recommended to disconnect both battery poles. The inverter controls the two contactors by means of the DC bus voltage. When udc &amp;lt; udcsw then the precharge relay is closed, the main contactor is inhibited. When udc &amp;gt; udcsw the main contactor is closed as soon has the start signal (pin 7) goes high. The precharge relay is opened at the same time. udcsw should be set to about 80% of your nominal pack voltage. So if the latter is 360V set udcsw to 300V by typing&lt;br /&gt;
 set udcsw 300 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting motor temperature sensor, emergency stop and motor protection switch ==&lt;br /&gt;
The software supports the KTY83 and KTY84 temperature sensor. Other types might be supported in upcoming releases. Note that the sensor has a polarity. When connected the wrong way it will saturate at 120°C. So even if the temperature rises above 120°C it will be displayed as 120°C. Connect it to pin 21 (negative) and pin 22 (positive).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some motors have a protection switch that opens at some threshold temperature. You can connect it to 12V and pin 11. It will stop the inverter immediately if tripped. If your motor does not have this feature, connect pin 11 to 12V.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The emergency stop serves a similar function. It can be installed in the drivers reach and will stop the inverter immediately when 12V is interrupted (failsafe). Connect it to 12V and pin 17. (Not used on the rev3 mainboard, connect pin 17 to 12V. If you want a separate E-stop button, wire it in series with the motor protection switch) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Forward and reverse ==&lt;br /&gt;
You can connect a 3-position switch for selecting the drive mode. Forward (pin 13) turns the motor in one direction, reverse (pin 15) in the other. If they are both low, no current is fed to the motor making this essentially the neutral position. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Correction, this will not be a neutral position. Rather, it will be almost parking, if you turn on neutral at speed, there will be a very hard stop regen! &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== See Also ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are detailed pages for [[Main Board Version 2|main board]], [[Sense Boards|sensor boards]] and [[Gate Driver|gate drivers]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about the softwares [[Parameters]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In-depth information can be found on the [[Hardware Theory of Operation|Hardware Principles]] and [[Software Theory of Operation|Software Principles page]].&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Romale</name></author>
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