IPDM56: Difference between revisions

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(Created page with "= Getting started with the iPDM56 VCU = Note: all documentation is under https://github.com/celeron55/ipdm56 == Connect the board to USB and power it up == This is a sanity check before you start soldering and chase your tail troubleshooting. Use a good quality micro USB cable and power the board up through it via a charger or computer. none|thumb|both LEDs are lit after the initial Arduino sketch has started == Solder the connector on...")
 
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== Solder the connector onto the board ==
== Solder the connector onto the board ==
Apart from soldering equipment you will need two small screws and nuts to secure the 56 pin header connector to the PCB. They are not included in the enclosure kit.
Before you start soldering, test fit the PCB to see if the remaining holes line up with the threaded mounts of the enclosure.
 
Apart from soldering equipment you will need two small screws and nuts to secure the 56 pin header connector to the PCB so it is secured during soldering.
 
If you're in a rush, you should alternate between the two sections to avoid overheating the board and reduce stresses on the joints.
[[File:Connector PCB screws.jpg|center|thumb|Connector PCB screws (borrowed from ATX mainboard mounts)]]
[[File:Connector Secured.jpg|center|thumb|Connector secured for soldering]]
[[File:Alternating.jpg|center|thumb|Alternating between both sides]]
[[File:Soldered.jpg|center|thumb|all 56 pins soldered]]
 
== Wiring in the pins ==
(starting with the USB connection)
 
 
 
[[File:Plastic grid removed, note different numbering.jpg|center|thumb|Plastic grid removed, note different numbering]]
 


You can use any M2.5 or M3 screw as long as the head is not tapered/countersunk. Nyloc nuts are recommended as we have to deal with vibration in an automotive environment, but some glue can be used as an alternative.


Before you start soldering, test fit the PCB to see if the remaining holes line up with the threaded mountsof the enclosure.


If you're in a rush, you can alternate between the two sections to avoid overheating the board.


== First program - blink LEDs ==
== First program - blink LEDs ==

Revision as of 15:43, 14 April 2023

Getting started with the iPDM56 VCU

Note: all documentation is under https://github.com/celeron55/ipdm56

Connect the board to USB and power it up

This is a sanity check before you start soldering and chase your tail troubleshooting.

Use a good quality micro USB cable and power the board up through it via a charger or computer.

both LEDs are lit after the initial Arduino sketch has started

Solder the connector onto the board

Before you start soldering, test fit the PCB to see if the remaining holes line up with the threaded mounts of the enclosure.

Apart from soldering equipment you will need two small screws and nuts to secure the 56 pin header connector to the PCB so it is secured during soldering.

If you're in a rush, you should alternate between the two sections to avoid overheating the board and reduce stresses on the joints.

Connector PCB screws (borrowed from ATX mainboard mounts)
Connector secured for soldering
Alternating between both sides
all 56 pins soldered

Wiring in the pins

(starting with the USB connection)


Plastic grid removed, note different numbering



First program - blink LEDs

Set up the Arduino IDE. The ATMega 328 is also used on Arduino UNO, Arduino Pro Mini and Arduino Nano, so programming should be familiar. See https://docs.arduino.cc/hardware/uno-rev3 for some tips.

As the iPDM56 uses a CH340G USB-to-serial converter, the choice of bootloader will be ignored, just choose the correct serial port.