IPDM56

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Revision as of 11:42, 6 April 2023 by Marcexec (talk | contribs) (Created page with "= Getting started with the iPDM56 VCU = Note: all documentation is under https://github.com/celeron55/ipdm56 == Connect the board to USB and power it up == This is a sanity check before you start soldering and chase your tail troubleshooting. Use a good quality micro USB cable and power the board up through it via a charger or computer. none|thumb|both LEDs are lit after the initial Arduino sketch has started == Solder the connector on...")
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Getting started with the iPDM56 VCU

Note: all documentation is under https://github.com/celeron55/ipdm56

Connect the board to USB and power it up

This is a sanity check before you start soldering and chase your tail troubleshooting.

Use a good quality micro USB cable and power the board up through it via a charger or computer.

both LEDs are lit after the initial Arduino sketch has started

Solder the connector onto the board

Apart from soldering equipment you will need two small screws and nuts to secure the 56 pin header connector to the PCB. They are not included in the enclosure kit.

You can use any M2.5 or M3 screw as long as the head is not tapered/countersunk. Nyloc nuts are recommended as we have to deal with vibration in an automotive environment, but some glue can be used as an alternative.

Before you start soldering, test fit the PCB to see if the remaining holes line up with the threaded mountsof the enclosure.

If you're in a rush, you can alternate between the two sections to avoid overheating the board.

First program - blink LEDs

Set up the Arduino IDE. The ATMega 328 is also used on Arduino UNO, Arduino Pro Mini and Arduino Nano, so programming should be familiar. See https://docs.arduino.cc/hardware/uno-rev3 for some tips.

As the iPDM56 uses a CH340G USB-to-serial converter, the choice of bootloader will be ignored, just choose the correct serial port.