I have seen the new site, it seems all you need to do is comply for a safety. but reading and doing are different. but I'm going to try and register the porsche just for an exercise

Can I be cheeky and ask if you left the fly leads connected from the output, my Gen 1 died and I have a Gen 2. The 1 was easy to connect as it just needed ferrules, but the Gen 2 needs ring connectors and has those 2 leads connected to the original cable at the line 1 and 2 outlets

Have you checked the local laws. At present you cannot build/convert a car to EV in Ontario. Not sure where you are in Canada but certain provinces will not touch it for insurance or registration.

I've been waiting for this. excellent news

I am about to start mounting the drive unit to my car. Can you share any pictures of the way you mounted it to the frame. Also did you get driveshafts made and how easy was it to get them.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aNZ4tLZSKVZ6i4ye7
In case anyone was hoping to balance charge via the plugs, the circuit board has pretty thin traces under the vulcanization

Some dirty calculations
The Rover V8 weighed 320lbs
The Porsche Transaxle weighed 125lbs
The Tesla drive unit 295lbs.
The modules are 40lbs each totaling 480lbs
I am hoping I can fit 4 in the trans tunnel
That leaves 320lbs to be either put back up front or to play around with

If I use the watchdog it will simply reset the board, that would also lose drive and on a road car I see some validity but on a race car not sure its going to make a lot of difference. That and the fact I skipped over the blinking of LED's so I really am not at a stage to follow the program right ...

Rover V8 removed, a long time since the engine bay has been empty. Yes when I built the headers one side went around the steering shaft. At the time it seemed trivial.

I have a relatively simple question regarding inputs to the LDU 23 way connector. I have 3 momentary buttons selecting N - R- D like the roadster, I'm using a UNO with a relay shield to control the inputs. R and D will obviously trigger pins 8 and 7 respectively. In N I wish to inhibit any input ...

I have to retire my old PDM DT500 multi meter after many many years it’s just not going to work for me. So as I have had one multimeter for so long, what’s the recommendations. ? I thought I was fairly good at soldering until I recently got a ersa I-con nano and realized how bad my old weller wand ...

Taking into account my guess of the temp in my apartment and my down and dirty Multimeter I think it’s safe to assume they are 10k ohm thermistors so should work on the Tesla boards nicely, finally something’s working out right.

Not sure where to put this bus as I’m using a mish mash of parts I wonder if anyone has the thermistor values for Tesla model S at set temperatures. Degrees Celsius
Chevy Volt
-40 75.5k
-20 22.5k
0 7.2k
20 2.7k
40 1.2k
60 0.5k
80 0.3k
100 0.16k

Chrysler Pacifica
To be added to.....
0 31 ...

One of the end plate I’ll call the ‘power’ side terminates into the positive and negative terminals, this is the side I will be using to monitor and connect the newly formed 2P 8S modules.

On the end of the assembled module this end cap lines up with the pouch cell tabs. They are identical as they are 1p 16s. Each plate also has 2 temperature probes. The main plug has 12 pins. 9 for monitoring the cells and balancing and I assume 3 for the 2 thermistors sharing a common. I’ll trace ...

The trays are lined with aluminium and sandwich a pair pouches except for the end plates. So it’s pouch-plate-pouch-pouch-plate. The trays holding the plates interconnect like LEGO.

I literally took the module apart last night before it got to cold. There are 4 sensors on each module both on the outer pouch making one of each pair fairly redundant. I’ll put my meter across them today. Between each pouch there’s a substantial aluminium plate that is an inverted T so I’m going to ...

After doing a lot of reading the simple solution was to go with Toms BMS, Damien’s LDU control board. I have an 80A original HPWC for my Roadster so it seems crazy to pass up on the gen 3, 72a charger, once again controlled by Damien’s board. A Volt DC/DC converter was employed for the 12v heating ...

After breaking many drive shafts that were supposed to be unbreakable, I decided to go electric. As I have a Roadster I could only think of one solution for what I wanted. So I started with a LDU with the revision done so it’s a good candidate to push the limit with.

So the plan is simple. Take the race car built over 30 years ago and modernize it.

Another Porsche 924/44. I’d love some details on that one. I’m just finishing gathering all my parts and I’m ready to start chopping

Hi there, I'm professing myself as more of a lurker than a contributor. I am just starting to move away from my welder and calipers and picking up a soldering iron and an old computer with Linux. Its going to take me a while but I'm starting to understand various aspects of coding, in as much as ...