Hey Marvin,

what a great project! I drive an LT28 myself (which, likely, won't be that well suited for a conversion because of the lower weight limit). Going for 650V is also a really interesting approach. I'm going to follow this thread closely.

Good luck!

The parking pawl motor saga continues. It remained locked basically every time I went to start the vehicle, which annoyed me very much. So I removed it from the vehicle (to unlock the parking pawl, the motor has to compress a spring, so it should be in the completely locked position for removing it ...

Noting these things down before I forget (also, because this doesn't seem to be documented anywhere else):

Sometimes, after unlocking the vehicle, the driver side door won't open. There is no resistance when pulling the door lever. A (measured) smack on the door near the lock helps. If you get in ...

That sounds great! I assume I would need the StreetScooter diagnosis device for that?

I've now started university in another city, but for practical reasons, my EV has to stay at home. So I haven't been able to work on it much. Charging it to 100% SoC works and I can even make it balance by plugging an EVSE into the charge port afterwards. So continuous balancing isn't possible yet ...

I don't have a suitable resistor, but I would be quite surprised if it works. In an open circuit, I would have expected to see a least a blip of some voltage on the oscilloscope (or a change in the maximum observed value), but that never happened. This makes me think that this type of charger ...

Thanks! It's been (and still is) a lot of fun. Especially now that I can observe the effects of my changes directly. Two more notes:


I was wrong earlier. An 11k resistance between the charge port lock sense wires seems to work fine, the whole emulation circuitry isn't needed. I think it's ...

Alright, here is a short update on the 682 BG with a few findings:


For now, neither the door lock emulation circuitry nor the CP/PP signaling can be removed
It's fine to always have 230V on the input, it doesn't need to be switched off
Only these CAN-IDs are actually required to get the ...

I hereby declare this charger (682 BG) hacked!

photo_2025-09-27_20-01-04.jpg

No joke, it worked on the first try, once I had hooked it up to the HV battery. It seems that it does indeed have a minimum voltage, but 375V is higher than that voltage!

I will have to do some cleanup, some ...

I managed to get the charger running. It's currently charging at 3 Amps, but I will have to interrupt it, because I currently haven't hooked cooling up to the charger. So far, the car hasn't locked me out. Knock on wood!

Thanks, you two! Definitely, some charging would be better than no charging. And I love the simplicity of the Outlander OBC. In another thread, @arber333 found out that the maximum voltage of it is indeed 400V. I would like to be able to charge close to 4.2V, to force the BMS into balancing. So ...

Another thing I'm slightly worried about:

I read somewhere that (at least for a different EV, though I can't remember which one) there should be absolutely no current flowing, when the BMS tries to open a contactor, because it will think that the contactor is welded and not close it again until ...

Thanks, marcexec! I thought about getting an MG ZS charger as well, since those are supposed to reach the relatively high voltage of the 104S pack. They are expensive, though and I'm trying to keep this project as low-budget as possible. Currently, I'm pondering just switching the OBC I have on and ...

After my troubles with the motor vehicle authority, I had to make a new appointment. It was supposed to be in October, since nothing works in Germany. Last Thursday, I had the CoC document in the mail, failed to get a spontaneous appointment at the MVH on friday (the worker gave a me a lot of ...

I can now reliably start a charge after resetting the OBC, it ends after a few seconds though. It seems to make unhappy noises while pumping quite a few amps into a 12V battery, once I get my EV street legal, I will test with its battery. It will take at least another two weeks up to that point ...

More updates (but progress is slow):


I got a CoC document in the mail. Yay :D
I had an appointment at the motor vehicle authority where I found out that there is an error in the CoC document (wrong type number), so I had to mail it back and am currently waiting for new ones... :?
I bought ...

My mongoose arrived now and I have a laptop with ODIS, though I am still struggling. J2534 seems to work fine, my main problem is that I don't know what project to select for my 5QE 915 682 BG. Could you give me a hint on that? Do I need to import some external MCD project?

Edit:
Now, a few hours ...

I've now prepared everything for when my fake Mongoose JLR arrives. I've wired power to my OBC, as well as an ECU connector with both CAN buses, temperature, power supply, the RGB LED, CC and CP and nothing else, according to the Wiki. When I apply 12V without any CAN communication, the LED doesn't ...

Hey there, I might be joining the fun soon. I bought the cheapest OBC I was able to find on eBay which is a 5QE 915 682 BG with smashed connectors, which should be quite similar to the AF variant, according to your first message on this topic. Just to get up to speed quickly, what am I going to need ...

Passed the inspection on the second attempt!

A stabilizer coupling rod and both stabilizer rubber bushings needed to be replaced.
The part numbers are:

Febi Bilstein 07989 for the coupling rod (I bought the same part)
Eibach 45-85-008-01-01 for the rubber bushings


The bushings don't seem to ...

Quick notes for documentations sake (Purely mechanical):

I installed a complete brake kit (apart from the brake cylinders, since the current ones are still good and I was on my own, so I wouldn't have been able to easily bleed the brakes) made by LPR. It's identifier is "OEK 419" and I found a good ...

Today, I had some time to work on the truck. Besides getting the battery measurements and re-torqueing the bolts holding it in, I needed to do some preparations for the general inspection for getting the truck road legal.
For documentations sake: The battery bolts seem to be DIN 6921 Hexagon flange ...

Hey everyone,

I almost can't believe it, I managed to wake the vehicle up from its slumber today! My hardware seems to be a bit different from yours, @gb993. Cycling the ignition didn't help, and I also didn't get a sound from the buzzer. What did help was the procedure from this video:
https://www ...

I appreciate the advice! We managed to get the battery installed in the car again. The procedure was much easier than I was worrying. We were very lucky that we had almost no rotational misalignment, so some adjustability in two directions was all we needed. Here are some pictures:
photo_2025-08-07 ...

Thanks! That's very interesting. It's a lot of fun to me to see all the variants out there and to observe the evolution and the experiments StreetScooter carried out. I will be careful with the OBC, although it's quite possible that mine is broken as well. After all, they told me that it wasn't ...