The PTC heater was always on, so I took it apart:

rn_image_picker_lib_temp_93da509a-b0b2-4fbd-a0e3-ec40898de335.png

This doesn't look too good. It frankly also doesn't feel like a good design and it seems to have a reputation for failing ("why might that be?", I wonder. Surely, the electronics ...

Quick note:

YouTube Channel "Out Of Spec Renew" published a new video a few hours ago: This One Part Caused My Fiat 500e To Completely Stop Driving!

As you can tell from the title, it's about the Parking Pawl Motor, obviously (the same low-quality unit as in the StreetScooter and apparently some ...

Hey everyone,

it's been a while!
I recently took some time to work on the car, for procrastinatory reasons. Firstly, as I mentioned in an earlier post:

Initially, I had almost discounted the fuses as a source of error, because I was sure I would have seen some optical damage, if they had been ...

Hey everyone,

now that my EV is driving mostly alright, I want to be able to power some 230V accessories like an electric oven or a sound reinforcement system. Most DIY solutions seem to either tap off the 12V battery with a power inverter like one would do on a ICEd vehicle or to attach the HV ...

Hey everyone,

another quick update: the PH800480T030-ZHA01 arrived (around 70€ including taxes and shipping) and does indeed work (if you don't connect the ribbon cable incorrectly, a mistake that my brother thankfully fixed). I think that it has a slight yellow tint, compared to the original ...

Hey everyone,

I didn't have much time for working on the car recently, so I only have a short update for now. The CDIS (Central Driver Information System), aka the speedometer, has given up the ghost. The display panel had required manual intervention (poking it with a finger) for some time now and ...

Great success! Inititally, I had almost discounted the fuses as a source of error, because I was sure I would have seen some opticial damage, if they had been, indeed, damaged. Luckily, I was wrong! Measuring the voltage between the positive side of the OBC connector and the negative side at the ...

Hey folks,

it's been some time. Sadly, I couldn't spend much of it on the StreetScooter, but I found out some things that are worth mentioning.

First, my work on the parking pawl motor seems to have helped, but not quite always. Sometimes, it still locks up. The motor simply seems underpowered. If ...

Hey Marvin,

what a great project! I drive an LT28 myself (which, likely, won't be that well suited for a conversion because of the lower weight limit). Going for 650V is also a really interesting approach. I'm going to follow this thread closely.

Good luck!

The parking pawl motor saga continues. It remained locked basically every time I went to start the vehicle, which annoyed me very much. So I removed it from the vehicle (to unlock the parking pawl, the motor has to compress a spring, so it should be in the completely locked position for removing it ...

Noting these things down before I forget (also, because this doesn't seem to be documented anywhere else):

Sometimes, after unlocking the vehicle, the driver side door won't open. There is no resistance when pulling the door lever. A (measured) smack on the door near the lock helps. If you get in ...

That sounds great! I assume I would need the StreetScooter diagnosis device for that?

I've now started university in another city, but for practical reasons, my EV has to stay at home. So I haven't been able to work on it much. Charging it to 100% SoC works and I can even make it balance by plugging an EVSE into the charge port afterwards. So continuous balancing isn't possible yet ...

I don't have a suitable resistor, but I would be quite surprised if it works. In an open circuit, I would have expected to see a least a blip of some voltage on the oscilloscope (or a change in the maximum observed value), but that never happened. This makes me think that this type of charger ...

Thanks! It's been (and still is) a lot of fun. Especially now that I can observe the effects of my changes directly. Two more notes:


I was wrong earlier. An 11k resistance between the charge port lock sense wires seems to work fine, the whole emulation circuitry isn't needed. I think it's ...

Alright, here is a short update on the 682 BG with a few findings:


For now, neither the door lock emulation circuitry nor the CP/PP signaling can be removed
It's fine to always have 230V on the input, it doesn't need to be switched off
Only these CAN-IDs are actually required to get the ...

I hereby declare this charger (682 BG) hacked!

photo_2025-09-27_20-01-04.jpg

No joke, it worked on the first try, once I had hooked it up to the HV battery. It seems that it does indeed have a minimum voltage, but 375V is higher than that voltage!

I will have to do some cleanup, some ...

I managed to get the charger running. It's currently charging at 3 Amps, but I will have to interrupt it, because I currently haven't hooked cooling up to the charger. So far, the car hasn't locked me out. Knock on wood!

Thanks, you two! Definitely, some charging would be better than no charging. And I love the simplicity of the Outlander OBC. In another thread, @arber333 found out that the maximum voltage of it is indeed 400V. I would like to be able to charge close to 4.2V, to force the BMS into balancing. So ...

Another thing I'm slightly worried about:

I read somewhere that (at least for a different EV, though I can't remember which one) there should be absolutely no current flowing, when the BMS tries to open a contactor, because it will think that the contactor is welded and not close it again until ...

Thanks, marcexec! I thought about getting an MG ZS charger as well, since those are supposed to reach the relatively high voltage of the 104S pack. They are expensive, though and I'm trying to keep this project as low-budget as possible. Currently, I'm pondering just switching the OBC I have on and ...

After my troubles with the motor vehicle authority, I had to make a new appointment. It was supposed to be in October, since nothing works in Germany. Last Thursday, I had the CoC document in the mail, failed to get a spontaneous appointment at the MVH on friday (the worker gave a me a lot of ...

I can now reliably start a charge after resetting the OBC, it ends after a few seconds though. It seems to make unhappy noises while pumping quite a few amps into a 12V battery, once I get my EV street legal, I will test with its battery. It will take at least another two weeks up to that point ...

More updates (but progress is slow):


I got a CoC document in the mail. Yay :D
I had an appointment at the motor vehicle authority where I found out that there is an error in the CoC document (wrong type number), so I had to mail it back and am currently waiting for new ones... :?
I bought ...

My mongoose arrived now and I have a laptop with ODIS, though I am still struggling. J2534 seems to work fine, my main problem is that I don't know what project to select for my 5QE 915 682 BG. Could you give me a hint on that? Do I need to import some external MCD project?

Edit:
Now, a few hours ...