Prius Gen 3 Dual Motor Logic Board Support Thread

[180jacob]

(based on Damien's PDF, still waiting on the plots )

Connect MG1 resolver to the following ampseal pins:
11 GROUND (or any other ground pin)
12 MG1 RESOLVER EXC
18 RESOLVER SIN
19 RESOLVER COS
34 MG1 SIN/ENCODER CHAN A
35 MG1 COS/ENCODER CHAN B

Connect MG2 resolver to the following ampseal pins:
21 GROUND (or any other ground pin)
20 MG2 RESOLVER EXC
18 RESOLVER SIN
19 RESOLVER COS
15 MG2 SIN/ENCODER CHAN A
16 MG2 COS/ENCODER CHAN B

Yes pins 18 and 19 have two wires connected to them, this is correct. I recommend connecting each motor on its own before connecting them both at the same time.

[New Electric Ireland]

still waiting on the plots

They're on Patreon I believe;

https://www.patreon.com/posts/prius-v1d-block-44225043

[Jack Bauer]

Design files for the V1d ampseal adapter boards are now live on github :
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius- ... master/V1d

[180jacob]

They're on Patreon I believe;

Was referring to the ampseal board which wasnt there, but thanks for taking the time to reply. Damien knew what I meant. I made good use of the logic board patreon files to do the yaris/auris/>2012prius small board variant.

...adapter boards are now live on github

Thanks for these.

[nuffz]

does any one know where i can get another 50pin igbt connecter from ? i cant seem to find them anywhere

https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius- ... dParts.csv

row 7 is the item you wish to buy. I have included this link in case you did not know the details

I think JB had a lot of trouble buying this part. Think he ended up getting from Japan.

thank yyou

[johnspark]

(based on Damien's PDF, still waiting on the plots )

Connect MG1 resolver to the following ampseal pins:
11 GROUND (or any other ground pin)
12 MG1 RESOLVER EXC
18 RESOLVER SIN
19 RESOLVER COS
34 MG1 SIN/ENCODER CHAN A
35 MG1 COS/ENCODER CHAN B

Connect MG2 resolver to the following ampseal pins:
21 GROUND (or any other ground pin)
20 MG2 RESOLVER EXC
18 RESOLVER SIN
19 RESOLVER COS
15 MG2 SIN/ENCODER CHAN A
16 MG2 COS/ENCODER CHAN B

Yes pins 18 and 19 have two wires connected to them, this is correct. I recommend connecting each motor on its own before connecting them both at the same time.

Ah thank you for the clarification 180jacob, i now know what to do

[Pagedefrg]

Hello.
I'm not sure if I'm writing on the right topic (if I'm in the way, delete it).
Help me please.
I have a project - a small yacht with a hybrid engine.
The following connection scheme is desirable:
MG1 is connected to a diesel engine (3.5 kW) as a generator (and a diesel starter). MG2 acts as a traction motor. The 16 kW li-ion battery acts as an energy storage device. The battery is mainly charged from a 220V household network or solar panels or a diesel generator.
Is it possible for the board to work "two motors" in such a circuit?
That is - the boat is at the pier - charging from the 220v network. The boat under MG2 goes out to sea - there is a charge from solar panels (connected to an inverter). More energy needed - MG1 starts the diesel engine and MG1 switches to generator mode. Manual switching is possible between these modes. All three charge sources are connected to the MG1 input of the inverter.
The storage battery has a voltage of 48V. The operating speed of the traction motor is 500-2000 rpm.
As MG1 and MG2 for my project, MG1 from Prius11 will be taken.
Will the "two motors" board cope with this task?
Thank you.

[180jacob]

Hello.
I'm not sure if I'm writing on the right topic (if I'm in the way, delete it).
Help me please.
I have a project - a small yacht with a hybrid engine.
The following connection scheme is desirable:
MG1 is connected to a diesel engine (3.5 kW) as a generator (and a diesel starter). MG2 acts as a traction motor. The 16 kW li-ion battery acts as an energy storage device. The battery is mainly charged from a 220V household network or solar panels or a diesel generator.
Is it possible for the board to work "two motors" in such a circuit?
That is - the boat is at the pier - charging from the 220v network. The boat under MG2 goes out to sea - there is a charge from solar panels (connected to an inverter). More energy needed - MG1 starts the diesel engine and MG1 switches to generator mode. Manual switching is possible between these modes. All three charge sources are connected to the MG1 input of the inverter.
The storage battery has a voltage of 48V. The operating speed of the traction motor is 500-2000 rpm.
As MG1 and MG2 for my project, MG1 from Prius11 will be taken.
Will the "two motors" board cope with this task?
Thank you.

Ok there's a lot there. In short, It's all do-able but some of those aspects haven't been done before and yours is a pretty niche application so this will require a lot of development on your own. To break it down:

"the boat is at the pier - charging from the 220v network" - possible, but given your battery is 48v there are plenty of commercial chargers available for not very much that are designed for this specific purpose. Using the buck boost from the inverter would require considerably more thought than its worth.

"The boat under MG2 goes out to sea" - yes, this is exactly what the inverter and the openinverter boards are designed to do.

"there is a charge from solar panels" - not really, at the very least you will need to write different firmware, you are best off buying/making a dedicated solar charge controller that has maximum power point tracking (MPPT). Given this is a 'small yacht' you aren't going to have more than a couple of KW of solar so a charge controller will be cheap.

"MG1 starts the diesel engine" not tested as far as I'm aware but I cant see why it wouldn't work, again the firmware wasn't really written for this so you will need to write an engine starting routine. You could probably do so with an external VCU and instruct the MG1 inverter over CAN leaving the firmware as it is. Though bear in mind at the moment the dual motor boards don't have an external CAN connection.

"MG1 switches to generator mode" - yes, but you there are a few details to consider e.g. is the MG1 motor a PM motor, how many volts per rev etc. at a complete guess, given the 48V battery you will probably need to buck down what is generated.

[180jacob]

So Damien has given me permission to upload the smaller layout version of the Dual motor board to the github repository.
I will also be (attempting to) maintain these boards. The idea being that I gain more experience with electronics and PCB design and at the same time Damien has one fewer juggling ball in the air so can spend more time innovating. Whilst my current level of skill and experience doesn't come close to Damien's and others on this forum I am learning fast so bear with me.

I have been trying to decide for over a week which repository was best to put this design in as we have one for prius and one for yaris/auris however it transpires that some newer prius' (like mine) also use the smaller board. I think its important not to break any links that may be in the forum or wiki so renaming or moving anything isnt an option. In the end I have decided to put this design in the Prius repository as most people using a yaris inverter will have looked in the Prius repository but not necessarily the other way round. I Have added a link in the reverse direction anyway.

These are 95% what I ordered and have tested though I have made a few subtle changes since. I moved the resistor capacitor network for the charger proximity signal out the way of the IDC connector. And changed the pad size on C7 to match the 8mm footprint component. The P channel mosfet I had used for the delay-on dc-dc control was removed from JLCs library so I have chosen a suitable alternative (hopefully). I also noticed the low side driver ICs for the outputs are out of stock. As these are used on the new VCU as well I will wait until an alternative is chosen for that and use the same, or maybe they will come back in stock? The whole series is 0 at the moment.

I will make these changes to the large layout board as well at some point. If anyone else has any change suggestions (that are tested and proven), let me know and I will implement them. Its important not to feature creep though, I say this with the intention of implementing fixes really.

Obviously I haven't made any boards with these latest changes and I don't intend on doing so until I have looked at other things like using a single wifi module and external CAN, so these files are available untested. That said the changes since my build are so subtle I am pretty confident I haven't introduced more errors.

[rstevens81]

I was wondering if you have taken maintaining the boards (prius/auris) that we could try to unify the designs?
by that i mean,
1) have a single board for dual and single motor configurations, just have 2 BOMS one for single motor config and 1 for dual motor config?
2a) create a 3d printable adaptor simlar to bexander (viewtopic.php?f=11&t=912&hilit=renault&start=50) therefore single board design for both?
2b) create a through hole resistor or jumper to switch between the resistance value differences between the inverters?
2c) change to through hole screw terminals instead of the current sensors sockets or make 2 sets of pads for each confuration

I'm happy to help if i can as i have both a yaris and a (old) prius inverter & a 3d printer so could assist in high res photos, cardboard aided design etc.

Of course feel free to tell me to get lost if this is totally bonkers.

[180jacob]

Yep that's what I'm thinking, just didn't want to upset the apple cart by changing too much in one go.
Unifying single and dual is a bit more tricky than just the BOM as at the moment there are differences in the CAN, the idc pinout, the current sensors parreleling and the igbt parreleling. This can all be overcome though. An alternative outcome is we make the dual motor board do everything the single one can and ignore the very slight increase in component cost.

As for the easier task of unifying big and small, my small board layout already has two solder jumpers to select which current sensor resistor ratio you want to use. (viewtopic.php?p=19786#p19786) though as I only have the one inverter I haven't 100% tested both options.
As for the connector I was thinking dual footprint so you just solder on whichever you have (like you suggested)
And for physically mounting one idea I was thinking possibly design some tabs on the PCB outline to make it fit the large size and you just snap them off if you want to fit in a small inverter. Dont know if JLC do a V milling option to put groves in? Other ideas are only make the small size and people screw in two extra PCB pillars or I like your 3d printing suggestion as lots of people have one now. To be honest now I have a small layout it's a very quick job to make the outline bigger especially if the other stuff is unified, so it's no problem keeping both. It does make things in general a lot simpler though if people don't have to choose between half a dozen varients when ordering or looking up the pinout/schismatic/PCB.

[Jack Bauer]

Big thank you to 180jacob for the work put in AND for sharing. I'll order a batch soon from jlcpcb and will be available in the webshop.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

An alternative outcome is we make the dual motor board do everything the single one can and ignore the very slight increase in component cost. [...] It does make things in general a lot simpler though if people don't have to choose between half a dozen varients when ordering or looking up the pinout/schismatic/PCB.

Indeed.

I was actually thinking about creating a "State of Affairs" thread, just to get descriptions of what is out there, what's being worked on, what you would use for what. I can't always tell why or for what reasons things are different.

For example, if someone asks which board to buy for their purposes, I'm not sure what advice to give.

Is there a reason someone wouldn't want a dual-motor board? Does the dual-motor's use of both inverters then mean you can't use the other inverter for some of the other things people theorized could/should be done with it like using it as a charger?

Even if using a single motor (not a Prius drivetrain), would you still take advantage of the dual-motor driver to give more power to a single motor or to be easier on a given inverter by splitting the load?

That kind of stuff.

[mdrobnak]

Dual motor board is for independent control.
The regular (v1c?) allows for paralleling of the outputs for more power.

I'd say the dual moto is useful for a hybrid or all wheel drive scenario. Though you have more work there in terms of integration.

[nuffz]

Big thank you to 180jacob for the work put in AND for sharing. I'll order a batch soon from jlcpcb and will be available in the webshop.

thank you Jacob the community is blessed to have you

[Abricosvw]

Hello again ...)))
I have a fully assembled board prius gen 3 dual motor(Pri_G3_built_v1d)
I have a minimum of wires connected HV+-,invertor 12v -+,5+-one pedal Potentiometer,12+ start signal,12+forward direction signal,resolver 6 wires ...
my problem as you can see in the video below the motor does not stop ...
it stops rotating after disconnect the wire for the direction ...

I tried many different options with settings nothing helped

[180jacob]

Hello again ...)))
I have a fully assembled board prius gen 3 dual motor(Pri_G3_built_v1d)
I have a minimum of wires connected HV+-,invertor 12v -+,5+-one pedal Potentiometer,12+ start signal,12+forward direction signal,resolver 6 wires ...
my problem as you can see in the video below the motor does not stop ...
it stops rotating after disconnect the wire for the direction ...

I tried many different options with settings nothing helped

Hard to see from your video and its late so I might not be thinking straight but looks like you haven't set the pinswap setting, this means the current sensors wont match up with the phases and the inverter will not be able to control the current correctly. I ant remember what you need to set it to but for reference I posted my parameters here: viewtopic.php?p=21384#p21384 though these were with the latest firmware version 4.97 and I think you said 4.87 in your video. Looks like I set it to "8" but not sure which option that translates to on the web interface drop-down box.

[Abricosvw]

Hello again ...)))
I have a fully assembled board prius gen 3 dual motor(Pri_G3_built_v1d)
I have a minimum of wires connected HV+-,invertor 12v -+,5+-one pedal Potentiometer,12+ start signal,12+forward direction signal,resolver 6 wires ...
my problem as you can see in the video below the motor does not stop ...
it stops rotating after disconnect the wire for the direction ...

I tried many different options with settings nothing helped

Hard to see from your video and its late so I might not be thinking straight but looks like you haven't set the pinswap setting, this means the current sensors wont match up with the phases and the inverter will not be able to control the current correctly. I ant remember what you need to set it to but for reference I posted my parameters here: viewtopic.php?p=21384#p21384 though these were with the latest firmware version 4.97 and I think you said 4.87 in your video. Looks like I set it to "8" but not sure which option that translates to on the web interface drop-down box.

thanks for the help !!!
firmware version 4.96R FOC
I compared your settings and mine and found the difference and found my problem ...
i used command set pinswap 5
but I did not select nothing in the section inverter

[zilion]

I think, that COOLANT_TMP line is hanging loose. I've check on a few schemas and every where is this same. So my understanding is that it's not used and not needed.
But where it supposed go initially?

[johu]

I compared your settings and mine and found the difference and found my problem ...
i used command set pinswap 5
but I did not select nothing in the section inverter

In older versions the web interface did not display this correctly. Download this: https://github.com/jsphuebner/esp8266-web-interface and upload index.js via the upload form on top of the page. Then refresh and you should see which pinswaps are active.

[chrskly]

Hey all,

Running into a couple of issues with my dual-motor board. Appreciate any suggestions.

I'm seeing various, wrong-looking, voltages on UDC. I'm using a small bench supply putting out 30V/5A for initial testing. I'm seeing 0V when testing today. I was seeing around -3V in a previous round of testing. Looking at Damien's schematics, it looks like the UDC signal comes in on DC_BUS_1 (6) and DC_BUS_2 (10). I've been over the 50 way connector multiple times with the multimeter to check the solder joints and it looks good as best as I can tell.

I'm seeing the right voltage at the two bolts (not the input connections, but the other ones).

I also have a Yaris board. I put that into the inverter to try and round down the search area. I'm seeing the right voltage with the Yaris board (~26V). So, that points to an issue with the dual-motor board rather than the inverter.

I checked the resistors connected straight to DC_BUS_1/2 and they look OK. I also checked the continuity back to the STM. Looks OK.

The only thing I can think of is that the screw hole for the board under current sensors (on the ampseal end) has a ground, but it doesn't line up. But one of the other screws has a ground, so I presume that's fine.

I'm also seeing the problem setting ampnom and fslipspnt in v4.97.R. See here.

I'm also having a problems changing the WiFi configuration on the olimex. I'm trying to connect them to my home WiFi. I can update the settings and it seems to accept them. But when I click to return to the main page, it hangs indefinitely and needs a power cycle. The settings then appear to have not been accepted. I'm seeing this behavior for both modules. The solder joints seem OK on the back of the cards (comparing to the module in the Yaris board). Any suggestions?

[Jack Bauer]

Main cause of udc reading wrong is the -5v supply not getting to the igbt board. Main cause of that is a solder joint on the pesky 50 way connector.

[chrskly]

Main cause of udc reading wrong is the -5v supply not getting to the igbt board. Main cause of that is a solder joint on the pesky 50 way connector.

Thanks Damien, will check it out. Much appreciated.

[180jacob]

I think, that COOLANT_TMP line is hanging loose. I've check on a few schemas and every where is this same. So my understanding is that it's not used and not needed.
But where it supposed go initially?

If you take a look on Damien's github at the v1 Prius schematic (not 1c or 1d, just v1) it is shown to be connected to the atmega328P though at that point there was no software for using the buck boost. It looks like the functionality was dropped in favour of adding mg1 current sensors. For most people just reading the die temperatures is adequate and coolant pumps are run all the time. If we are going to the effort of soldering on the connector though we might as well wire it up to something, there is a spare adc pin on MG2 stm32, or on the dual motor board there are several spare on MG1, or it could go to a solder jumper next to the 328p and you select if you want both die temps or one and the coolant temp. I will have a look at this next time there are other things to change.

Was there anything specifically you wanted to do with the coolant temp measurement?

[zilion]

Was there anything specifically you wanted to do with the coolant temp measurement?

At this point I wasn't I just redesigned this hardware to my like, so I found few things in a process. One was coolant temp.

I'm trying to simplify this design, because it has some things that are suffering from iterations.
example: Why there are used two types of micro-controllers? You can do all with STM32.
example: Why you have to connect wireless interface independently?
example: Why MG1 and MG2 are CAN connected, but not BOOST mc?

My plan is to make this like VESC -easier to configure and operate.

And BTW thanks guys for your great work. I like it very much!