Tesla Model 3 Rear Drive Unit Hacking

[AMP3R]

She done:) Passes critical drc. Of course it wont work but will look cool and get clicks.

I bet the price will be around 500 usd?

[Jack Bauer]

No idea on price yet but yeah hopefully something like that. Will depend a lot on the non JLC parts

[uhi22]

Impressive work. Just few cents from my side:
- unconnected pins are not marked as "intentionally unconnected" with the "x" mark. Not sure whether this leads to checker warnings.
- https://www.mouser.de/datasheet/2/389/t ... 852101.pdf says absolute maximum Vs is 15V. I propose to use an amplifier that at least withstands 20V.
- xtal of the STM32 does not have a series resistor. Not sure where I found this, but some designs use a serial resistor.
- C29 to 32 are elcaps (using plus symbol) in the schematic. Is this intended? Maybe use ceramic caps for these?
- input voltage limitation of the controller is missing. E.g. BRAKE has a divider 4k7/1k5 to BRAKE_IN which feeds PE4.
PE4 is a 5-V-tolerant pin ("FT", according to table 5 of the data sheet). The FT pins do not tolerate any current injection (according to chapter 5.3.13). Data sheet: https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource ... 191185.pdf Would it make sense to add TVS or diode to 3v3 to avoid unintended current injection?
- C39, 40 have polarized symbols, which is surprising for 22pF.

[Jack Bauer]

Thanks for the feedback

[Jack Bauer]

Working on the BOM today. A real joy. Given the cost of the assembled boards a supporter is going to 3d print a test fit version for me. Included a step file in case anyone else wants to play.

[Jack Bauer]

Ok folks, need some component id help in the gate driver section:

Going to take a guess that VN17 diode is a 600V 1A fast recovery. Going with : MURA160T3G as is an onsemi part.
An STTH112A is used on the STGAP eval board.

Diode 2H2 on the same eval board is a STPS3L40-Y 3A 40V schottky. Will try a SS34.
No Info on G1 so trying a B5819WS.

Finally a pair of Sot-23 P and N mosfets marked WVS and WSB respectively. No info on these.

Any help much appreciated.

[royhen99]

WSB BSS138BK, WVS BSS84AK

[Jack Bauer]

That's great thanks so much:)

[Jack Bauer]

Working through the BOM ....

[Jack Bauer]

Latest schematic and PCB layout now on the githyb repo:
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Tesla- ... ter/Design

[Jack Bauer]

Needless to say if anyone has any info on the circuit or feedback etc would be much appreciated:)

[nkiernan]

Seriously impressive work, move your Salvador D, I'd hang this one the wall

[Jack Bauer]

[davefiddes]

Couple of comments on the video:

Seems like the STGAP1BS could be pre-supplied to JLCPCB like the QCA7000 on the Foccci for production runs of your board. Sure it adds cost but reflect that in what you charge for the board. No such thing as a free lunch.

I can recommend the "Fabrication Toolkit" from the KiCAD plugin repository. This creates the gerbers, BOM and position files in a form that JLC are happy with (and they recommend it). More details: https://github.com/bennymeg/Fabrication-Toolkit

If you want to make measurements on the Tesla gate driver behaviour with or without HV enabled this is entirely possible provided you are happy with fixed phase PWM values. I don't have a functioning inverter but the gate driver and PWM generation works fine. Shoot me an email if you want assistance.

[jrbe]

I second the JLC fabrication toolkit.
Check out the interactive html bom plugin as well, it's fantastic.

[Jack Bauer]

Appreciate that guys thanks. I have had some good feedback on the general pcb layout which I intend to address and had a few kind donations so was able to order from Mouser the bits JLC dont have as of now including the 1BS version of the driver chip.

On a related topic I got a tip on this and was very excited until I saw the price tag :
https://leandesign.com/pdf/Munro-Invert ... -Sales.pdf

If I hate one thing in this game its the duplication of effort.

Gonna guess no one will share any details on the design or schematic. Sigh....

[Jack Bauer]

Thanks to a good friend in Germany with a Prusa XL, we have a 3d printed prototype board for fit tests. Good news is it is a VERY good fit. Bad news is genius here totally forgot about the hole and pads for the HV connection hvil Would have been quite an expensive mistake even with bare boards.

[Jack Bauer]

[dsp1108]

Hello all.

Previously, projects for Tesla Model 3 and Tesla Plaid inverters were completed. Now I managed to get a printed circuit board for Tesla Cybertruck. I sent the video of the work to the big boss of this site. It probably takes 3-6 months to make a cybertruck. I plan to develop these projects on a non-open basis. Interested enthusiasts can contact me to complete modern projects with Tesla drives.

[Jack Bauer]

Almost ready for first real prototype from JLC

[Davidk]

Almost ready for first real prototype from JLC

Dont you miss holes for white plastic stands next to ST1/2/3?
Not sure what is under as i did not desolder my board yet.

[Jack Bauer]

Thanks but turns out Artur designed in a different sensor from mouser that doesnt need those holes so saves having to harvest them from the oem board. Have sent the step file for print.

[Jack Bauer]

She's done:)

[Davidk]

Because I desoldered my board i will post few notes for future adventurers:

1. To remove board you need to desolder all joints marked in green, total of 51 solder joints. I used just solder iron and solder wick.
2. You need to desolder High Voltage interlock loop marked in orange, only top and bottom solder joints are actually connected. Be kind to white plastic, it burns very easily.
3. You need to remove clamp over 30 pin connector, just take long flat screwdriver and move latches inward from plug side
4. Remove 11 T20 bolts (they are all same length). Yellow circles.

Now you can remove board, with connector, temp sensors and current sensors. For me this was easy and i did not had issue, i just wiggled it a bit.

Now you can continue with 30 pin connector in purple colour, this is bit painful part:
1. leads and whole surrounding area is covered by solder mask, i used Dremel with small tip to clean as much as i could.
2. Even when i tried a lot i was not able to wick solder from joins and free connector.
3. I ended with propane torch and connector just slid our, by this i obviously damaged board beyond repair/reuse.
4. To do this without damage to board you will need to use hot air soldering station.

Current sensor. Area around is again covered by solder mask a lot, i used Dremel again to clean area around. Housing is hold by 3 T10 bolts, coloured with blue dots. When trying to desolder sensors they slid out from black plastic housing, not sure if this is suppose to happen or not. I definitely used force to press housing away from board. Now i have plastic housing and two sensors which i desoldered later.

Tools used:
Solder iron, Solder wick, Bit of solder and flux, Torx T20 and T10, Dremel with small tip, propane torch.

Totally i spend 6-8 hours, i did not used solder iron for last 15 years and first two joints took me 30-40 minutes...

[Davidk]

If someone wants to reference internals of 3D6 inverter with other versions.