need some help with strategic decisions and if I got everything right…
I am a mechanical engineer with experience in batteries and OEM components (integration), but software is more the problem.
I have been reading here for a while and decided, that I need to take the next step

I got a Rover Mini from 86´, which I want to rebuild as an electric car.
What is the best method to control following parts? Plan was to use the Zombie VCU, but whats with the rest?
Motor: Outlander RDU with rear inverter
Needs to be mounted upside-down, or in reverse spinning direction. I would prefer the reverse direction, to have proper oiling and venting, as I understood that, the venting holes would be covered in oil in the upside down position. Is there a limit to current etc.? So far, I understood that there is none, but no confirmed answers…
OBC/ DCDC: Outlander
DCDC should be straight forward, but I was wondering, if the voltage of the OBC is fully adjustable and what the limit is? The Wiki doesn´t state a max voltage, I think I read somewhere in the Wiki, that the OBC is capable of up to 420 V? Plan is to use a 96S config for battery (VW/BMW PHEV) limited to 396 V or so, as the rest of the components shuts down at roughly 398 V.
Battery: VW Hybrid pack or BMW
Battery wise the VW hybrids are preferred by me, as they have a cooling plate and are available as 12 kWh packs more easily in Germany. Also I want to have the cooling plates, as the battery should be mounted in the area of the rear seats, to have a free boot for daily use.
I know Damien just used a 10 mm Aluminium plate, but as our summers are getting pretty hot at the moment with over 40°C and the battery being in the cabin, which might heat up even further, the pack might be soaked at 50°C or more… Also I want to build in a water heater for the cold months, to precondition the battery and perhaps the interior, when connected to a charger. The water heater would run over the plug of the inverter (fused with 30 amps), is it possible to activate this port whilst charging, without the rest of the inverter? Or is it better to leave it for the AC compressor and make a connection within the battery box for the heater? AC is not planned at the moment, so I would be happy to use that port…
As I will be rebuilding the battery box anyway, I might start with a swappable mounting plate for the modules, to add the cooling/ heating later on (for BMW pack).
In Germany you need isolation monitoring, the VW packs have one; do the BMW´s have one as well? Or is it done outside of the pack?
BMS wise I would go with the SimpBMS and the ZombieVerter as a VCU, or is it possible to run the Simp code on the Zombie? Keep in mind that max voltage needs to be set, as both variants of the packs have 96S instead of the 84S. If possible, I would try to not run any Arduinos and Teensys, as I like to use automotive rated equipment.
Last but not least, is there a proper model of the mini front frame available as CAD or scan? I looked for some models, but couldn´t find a proper one. Scanning is not possible atm, as I want to drive the car for the rest of the season as a cv…
I hope that I can help and clear some of my problems and questions for other people, to perhaps even build a guide out of my experience.
Thanks a lot!