Gen1 Leaf and ZV spin up issues [SOLVED]

[deleteduser1]

I tried so hard to not ask, I searched and tried many things. It's just not working for me. I feel like I have to openly admit I cannot seem to find myself and answer and I hope someone is willing to help.

EM61 with zombieverter, I get to run status but I can't spin it.

For testing I have tried 2-3 BMW i3 packs for up to a measured 142v wired directly to the PDM. 12v is run from a healthy 12v lead acid battery that holds charge at 12.7.

I have the pedal/pot calibrated as I understand it and I see it move when actuated . Like 1550-2300. Pot 2 only moves from 5 to 8 . I have tried setting it to single or dual (not sure if that works, but it says run and the one pot always works "pot pressed" or whatever ot says). I have a suspicion that pot2 is not functioning properly, but unsure. Pot 2 when graphing doesn't seem to follow actuation.

When the pdm is "started" and in FWD/REV, the motor shaft cannot be spun, but it can be by hand when off .

I don't have the leaf battery and contactors set up yet, are they necessary for bench testing a spin? Or the DC-DC? From what I've read I don't believe so, but my understanding won't spin a motor, so ...

I've tried to glean as much as I can, but I can't quite find what I need to get this going. Probably missed something incredibly simple, but my brain won't see it at this point.

I've attached my most recent config that I'm sure is somewhat of a mess from trying so many things. I've kind of forgotten everything I've tried at this point. Also a screenshot of the status page (after I removed the HV battery, just for reference)

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

[Bratitude]

i have no experience with the 1st gen pdm units, and unaware of any one using them with zombie. have you tired just wiring the leaf motor and inverter only?

also i see you have udc min at 48v, and are running a142v pack, yet in the web interface udc is only 2v. but you are in run mode. ethere theres an issue with udc getting relayed to the zombie via the leaf inverter, or your precharge setup is not working correctly.

[tom91]

142v wired directly to the PDM

There you go. This could easily be too little for the nissan leaf setup.

[Jack Bauer]

Needs 180v minimum.

[tom91]

Need to show us spot values of things working and powered on.

Id expect InvUdc and motor temps to populate if you wired it up right and are talking to the Nissan leaf inverter.

Once you have it in run more, show us plots of potnom on left and pot on right.

[deleteduser1]

Thank you all for the quick help. I might have uploaded the wrong screenshots from an earlier session without attached HV batteries, that probably explains the InvUdc discrepancy. I will redo that and a pot plot when im not melting in my garage from the current heatwave, and also strap another BMW cell on to give it more juice. I'll report back soon !

[deleteduser1]

Ok, back in the shop.
Applied 188v, no change from last attempt. More power needed?

Here are the graphs with everything plugged in. I noticed when I press the accelerator that I get a -14mph reading, and 0 when let off. If that's any clue.


Thank you

[tom91]

How has this all been wired up? The motor correctly connected to the inverter?
Motor temp and speed seem wrong.

Also 188 is close to 180v.

[deleteduser1]

Motor is right I'm fairly certain, I marked it before taking it out and it's the factory connection.

However , I think I need to go over the resolver wiring yet again. I had been using diagrams from the manual , but I decided it might be better if I confirmed the coils and temp sensor pin location with an ohmmeter.

~40ohms for sin/cos, 20 ohms for exciter, and temp sense was 15k-ish. No shorts to case. Seem about right?

Hopefully there's not enough power there to smoke the PDM if I mixed up in/outs.

I'll get back at it tomorrow.

[deleteduser1]

Ok, I went over the wiring to the resolver and I mistakenly went by the numbers on the connector, which are numbered backwards of my reference. I didn't realize the factory wiring was already correct (derp). After measuring out impedances on the connector I am pretty sure the resolver is now wired correctly. I see waveforms on the SIN/COS and exciter pairs now w my oscilloscope. Temperature seems to be working and appropriate, and the torque goes up as I press the accelerator. No more erroneous/strange values in the spot values.

If I spin the motor by hand, I see "speed" in the GUI go to a positive values, and if I spin the opposite, I see negative values.

I did pop in a new accelerator pedal and it gives better range in values, because that was bugging me and seemed to be malfunctioning (and was).

But still no luck with spinning the motor .

I have only made changes to my previous settings to reflect the new accelerator pedal values.

What should I check next? I cant imagine I nuked the IGBT's, Ive been careful to precharge, I've gone over my wiring dozens of times to the PDM, and compared against the service manual and Damien's videos as an insanity check.

[deleteduser1]

How has this all been wired up? The motor correctly connected to the inverter?

Ok, after taking this advice and going over this wiring 20 more times to verify the wiring is correct, I am confident it is correct. I know that it is because Somehow I just managed to spin it up, just once. Was not able to repeat it on a second press of the accel having made no changes.

What I didn't realize was that I'm getting piles of ESP-STM communication error warnings. After about 6 minutes it starts giving many errors. Looking at the power to the esp, it looks solid and clean. I've used an external 12v battery and a bench PSU.

I've tried 5 different WeMos boards (one sent with was DOA, I've tried a real D1 pro, and 3 knockoffs) and only the last one which was a knockoff gave me a result.

The only thing I think i did differently was trying "manually start inverter" and then clicked the run switch. Repeating that doesn't give the same result.

I've tried sockets, direct soldering, and jumper wires, all have the same result (no change).

I'm on 2.22A . I've reloaded the ZV board per the instructions with my USB programmer to be sure.

Any more pointers for progressing/troubleshooting would be very appreciated. I'm really stumped.

Thanks

[deleteduser1]

Ok, I can spin it if I start it very quickly.. power+manual inverter+run switch and then pedal press in under 20 seconds, it will spin, then cease accepting commands.

No errors, nothing obvious.

[tom91]

Please capture the CAN traffic between zombie and inverter. Possibly it is throwing faults that we normally dont listen to.

What do you mean by this? power+manual inverter+run switch

You should only need to do, ignition on, start switch, forward switch then it will work. All these go direct to the zombie.

[deleteduser1]

What do you mean by this? power+manual inverter+run switch

Pardon the brevity and yeah that wasn't too clear. That's the order of operations I need to do in order for it to spin up. Power (on) + manual inverter (button) + run (I should say " start button"). The fwd line is always connected currently. If I do that it will run if I hit the accelerator pedal quickly following those steps. If I don't hit the manual start inverter button, it doesn't work at all.

I can hear the inverter putting out some high frequency during that time that it is operational. So it seems to be deactivating for whatever reason.

I have a CAN monitor and savvycan, I'll see about capturing some data.

Thank you

[Bratitude]

Have you have the Fwd input pulled high during all tests?

[deleteduser1]

Have you have the Fwd input pulled high during all tests?

I had that concern at one point, too, so I've intentionally tried it high at start and low at start. I also tried reverse just for good measure. No dice

[Bratitude]

So you haven’t tried it in “neutral “ yet? Ie both inputs pulled low/not connected?

[tom91]

Power (on) + manual inverter (button)

Which are these? manual inverter button?!? There is none. You likely have not wired it as per wiki information. https://openinverter.org/wiki/Leaf_stac ... ombiverter

Show us your wiring.

[deleteduser1]

Im so grateful you all are sticking around to help. I really appreciate it, a lot. I really want to get this going, its really exciting.

Which are these? manual inverter button?!? There is none.

I'm speaking of button that is on the web UI. I have attached a photo so you can see what I'm speaking about. I didn't have to wire that, thankfully

I'm fairly confident I have the wiring correct now, but I understand your sentiment. I have copied the faq and labeled and checked it to death, and intended on sending pics and my diagram, but I forgot to bring my notes home tonight (ugh). Ill post them tomorrow.

I have attached 2 CAN logs, but I don't have a ton of CAN-knowledge so apologies if it isn't in a standard format. In the capture, I started the system, and also started it and hit the accelerator in time to spin the motor in the small window. The pedal presses should be near the end of the captures. That was my intention, anyway. I'm not too familiar with the CAN software (I used CANgaroo) but hopefully its readable for you. I exported it to TXT and its zipped in ASC. If there's another way to provide it that is more usable/compatible, please let me know. I'm not super versed in CAN, but Ill figure out whatever should you need it in another format

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So you haven�t tried it in �neutral � yet? Ie both inputs pulled low/not connected?

Yes I have. It was wired to a switch, but now it isn't, so I can visibly see exactly what is what and connect with a wago connector. Those wires are 53&54 on the zv. I removed the switch in my effort to eliminate possibly faulty components and haven't bothered hooking it back up. I have both with and without a switch alternated through all shifting options, both prior to start, and after. And for reference, the status shows correctly on the UI in all scenarios.

[tom91]

I'm speaking of button that is on the web UI. I have attached a photo so you can see what I'm speaking about. I didn't have to wire that, thankfully

It does nothing for the zombieverter. will review the canlogs later.

[deleteduser1]

will review the canlogs later.

Just for reference, I went ahead and installed the whole leaf battery and contactors.. there is no change in motor behavior or start/run errors. Attached is a link to a video of my scope probing a few of the resolver wires. Excuse the awful looking soldering, Ill clean it all up when this situation is figured out.

Needs 180v minimum.

So I've got it with the whole leaf battery connected @ 380v now. Still no dice.

Can you fill me in on the PDM boot process? Does the attached video match expected behavior of any sort of start conditions or readiness violations?

[tom91]

Please provide a CAN log from key off to you pressing the pedal.

[deleteduser1]

Please provide a CAN log from key off to you pressing the pedal.

The one I provided was that, but if it's not working for you, I can provide another.

[tom91]

All I can tell you is Can looks fine the 186V reported is likely low.

I am still saying you got bigger issues. Likely wiring issues related to inverter/motor.

I can see the torque requests go to the inverter so there is an issue with.

[tom91]

Just watched your video. You are looking at the resolver signals, I guess you unplugged it and it gets unhappy it can not see the required resolver feedback.

It also looks soldered and botched together. Did you modify the OEM harness?