[DRIVING] 1971 GMCe Lexus GS450H BMW 530e Tesla Model S Electruck

[Alibro]

My charger gets pretty warm too so I guess that's normal for them.

[Gregski]

so after much slacking and a little family medical situation I MILKED for all it's worth the truck is finally fully charged to 393 volts (just to be safe since I don't have BMS) and ready for some drive testing

this should really read Charging Complete but anyway that's what it means, it means the charging stopped once it reached the voltage we were trying to charge to aka 393 volts in this case (fully, fully charged for this pack is 400 volts)

[Gregski]

Science...

[HerbP]

I think the obvious conclusion is that the "Dual Motors" emblem on the tailgate offers a significant performance boost.

[Gregski]

I think the obvious conclusion is that the "Dual Motors" emblem on the tailgate offers a significant performance boost.

absolutely it's the equivalent of putting Jegs and Holley decals on your sh!et box in the 80s, basically instant horse power boost, science don't lie

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[mane2]

Dual motors, one wheel drive

[Gregski]

First Preliminary Range Test After Battery Pack Upgrade With Dual Motors - FPRTABPUWDM

Terrain, this was a rather unique range test in that it was not quite at Highway (65 MPH) speeds nor city street (45 MPH) speeds but at what I call Rural America Driving aka RAD speed 55 MPH, so these C10 (pronounced: "dimes") trucks natural habitat

Expected Range: 84 miles

Actual Range: 58 Miles

I used three different speedometers to record this to account for discrepancies, at this point in the game there is no room for error

my Intellitronix Speedometer which claimed we went: 57.1 miles
a free iPhone app called Speedometer Simple which read 58.65 miles
and Map My Ride bicycle app which thought I had, and I quote "A Great Workout" going 57.07 miles

RPM, based on my eyecrometer at no point in time did we go north of 3,000 revolutions

We started with the battery charged to 393 volts (since I do not run a BMS) the full charge is actually 400 volts. We ran it down to 297 or there abouts.

[tom91]

Did you log or record your HV current and voltage during the drive to work out what it takes to cruise at certain speeds? As that would give a good indication of efficiency.

At 297V I would strongly recommend verifying all the cells/modules are close before recharging. Since you have combined two different packs.

[Gregski]

Did you log or record your HV current and voltage during the drive to work out what it takes to cruise at certain speeds? As that would give a good indication of efficiency.

no I didn't I wish I had, I will do that next time as I plan on doing more of these range tests, as well as speed tests, one thing I want to try is see what the range will be running once again on only MG2 but this time with two of them 12 kWh BMW PHEV battery packs aka 24 kWh

also as a reminder I am still rocking the Legacy Lexus GS450h VCU as opposed to the Zombie, just making sure folks be aware of that

[Ghia66]

one eternity later.jpg


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so after much slacking and a little family medical situation I MILKED for all it's worth the truck is finally fully charged to 393 volts (just to be safe since I don't have BMS) and ready for some drive testing

I have got my BMW 12Killerwhale up to 344volts after an hour of granny charging… so slow!!

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this should really read Charging Complete but anyway that's what it means, it means the charging stopped once it reached the voltage we were trying to charge to aka 393 volts in this case (fully, fully charged for this pack is 400 volts)


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[Gregski]

something to keep in mind whilst electrifying that "classic" [pronounced: old] car of yours is that just because you convert it to electric, that doesn't mean all the problems associated with age will go away, case in point brake lights

I especially appreciate the components which I have not touched during the Phase II upgrade that have decided to stop working all on their own

I used to have an old paper clip that has shorted out a bunch of connections over the years, but now I use this BMW specialty tool part number 357-4008

OK so it's not the harness

[Gregski]

so on this truck the brake lights have nothing to do with the EV components, but this is what was holding me up from driving the truck safely, a $15 dollar brake light switch

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

something to keep in mind whilst electrifying that "classic" [pronounced: old] car of yours is that just because you convert it to electric, that doesn't mean all the problems associated with age will go away, case in point brake lights

Oh that's the fun part, isn't it? [sarcasm] The 40's headlight switch decided to act up on Drag Week. Mostly made it through, but love all the sudden losing headlights on a windy PA backroad in the rain at midnight.

[Gregski]

on this episode of Running and Driving Car Problems - RaDCP we find that we were about 10 PSI low on air at all four corners

have you all discovered the digital FREE air pumpulator stations @ Costco

[Gregski]

another milestone was charging the two 12 kWh BMW PHEV battery packs at a public Level 2 charging station for the first time, this one calls itself ChargePoint

This was sort of a big deal as I can't get my trusty VEVOR Level 2 charger to work at home!

[Gregski]

Second Range Test After Battery Pack Upgrade With Dual Motors - City Driving Only

see if you agree with these speeds when it comes to classifying this range test as city driving, most of the driving was done at 40 MPH plus or minus 5 miles per hour

Speedometer Range: 71 miles

Speedometer App Range: 74 miles

Sorry once again no amp/volt consumption log/stats... next time

not sure what that says 80 I think its total miles for that day not the last trip

[Alibro]

A 24 kWh Nissan Leaf had a range of around 70 to 80 miles on a good day so getting 74 miles with the aerodynamics of a brick is probably as good as you could expect.
My Freelander has a 38kWh battery and my range is around 100 miles. I once did 115 but ran out of juice.

[Gregski]

A 24 kWh Nissan Leaf had a range of around 70 to 80 miles on a good day so getting 74 miles with the aerodynamics of a brick is probably as good as you could expect.
My Freelander has a 38kWh battery and my range is around 100 miles. I once did 115 but ran out of juice.

exactly right, we leased a 2013 leaf with a 24 kWh pack and it ranged around that 84 mile mark, it did have a single motor though, so I am tempted to disable MG1 using the software on my Legacy VCU and do some range tests that way, wonder if anyone would be interested in seeing those numbers

just yanked this off of The Google: The weight of a 2013 Nissan Leaf ranges from approximately 3,256 to 3,340 pounds

wonder how that compares to that of Creeping Death now with two packs?

[Gregski]

so the next thing I plan on doing is weighig this truck now with two battery packs, and I regret not weighing it initially in stock OEM trim, although I did weigh every ICE related part I pulled off of it, so today I happen to come across someone who posted on Reddit what their 2nd Gen C10 (pronounced: 2WD) truck weighed so I will post it here for reference: 3,820 lbs

I'm sharing this cause the Interweb is littered with numbers that are all over the place

• 1968 C10: Shipping weight was around 3,200–3,300 pounds.

• 1969 C10: One user reported a 1969 C10 weighing 3,800 pounds.

• 1971 C10: With a 350 engine and TH400 transmission, it typically weighed 4,000–4,200 pounds.

[Gregski]

What time is it? [wrong answers only]

[TassieDevil]

Waiting...

[Gregski]

Waiting...

[Gregski]

and here's my buddies C10 Patrick's dinosaur juice powered truck as a reference weighing in at 3,739 pounds

[johu]

It's funny how OEM EVs are always heavier than their ICE counterparts and many conversions are the other way round.

Ah well if I remember correctly the ID.3 battery box alone weighted about 100 kg while my home made shell is more like 10 kg

[TassieDevil]

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