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ZombieVerter VCU Prius Inverter Connection

some say this video may cure your insomnia ...





it's going to look like this for both the 3rd Gen Toyota Prius and Lexus GS450h inverters

Gregski wrote: ↑Sat May 11, 2024 1:35 pm introducing the latest line to our Wood-A-Bility series

Did you wear your facemask to protect from cancerous wood dust?

Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Wed May 15, 2024 7:10 pm Did you wear your facemask to protect from cancerous wood dust?

ha ha, of course, as it may cause California in the state of Cancer !

The mighty Oak is furthering science!

I think that I might be facing difficulties connecting with the manscaped Zombie wiring!

Ghia66 wrote: ↑Fri May 17, 2024 10:21 am The mighty Oak is furthering science!

I think that I might be facing difficulties connecting with the manscaped Zombie wiring!

looks good from my house, lol, by the way I use https://www.irfanview.com/ to orient my pics right side up after my iPhone does all kinds of silly with them when I take them, seems it is right side up averse.

Thanks, that’s not the only thing upside down…I’m in Australia on holiday!

Ghia66 wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 8:01 am Thanks, that’s not the only thing upside down…I’m in Australia on holiday!

ha ha, cool we were in Sydney last year, such a beautiful city learned there's like bazillion different Eucalyptuseseses

Nobody:

Me: ZombieVerter VCU Prius Inverter Connection 2





we add another Pin and our first relay to the ZombieVerter VCU dingleberry wiring

Thanks for the demonstration of what to expect when connecting up.
Also for heads up on the "strange" seeming T15 reference etc.
Took screenshot of bullet points to me from your video.
Always I seem to be scrambling to find this sort of diagram or lay out at the time its needed.

Apologies for crude method, I don't know better.

Had to re pin sync wires after checking and that
WHITE is NEG and
Black is POS , so easy to revert to using percieved convention.. BE Careful Guys..

In your previous video, the T15 status , would seem to be reporting the on or off of 12v at pin 15 , I.e ,car battery applied or not applied through the "on" power switch.
This makes sense, and now unclouds one small part of the Roadmap.

Woodfie wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2024 3:12 am In your previous video, the T15 status , would seem to be reporting the on or off of 12v at pin 15 , I.e ,car battery applied or not applied through the "on" power switch.
This makes sense, and now unclouds one small part of the Roadmap.

yeah, I wish I discovered that sooner

ZombieVerter VCU Prius Inverter BMW 330e 530e sBox Connection 3

ZombieVerter VCU Prius Inverter BMW 330e 530e sBox Connection 4

working on adding a relay for the inverter to the DIY fuse block


Relay Connector, MUYI 5 Pin Relay Connector 12V Socket 30Amp 40Amp 6.3mm Truck Vehicle 5 Pack Car Relay

EV Conversion DIY Wire Harness - Inverter Relay





the three wires on the left of the fuse block bring 12 volt power into the block, the thick red wire is permanent 12 volts to the first row of four fuses, then the black wire feeds the middle row ignition key On power, and the other wire only provides power in the Start position to only the top fuse in the upper right corner

all the wires coming out the right side supply 12 volts to various doo dads and doohickeys

the ZombieVerter VCU controls the relay and turns the Inverter Off and On

so this is the last piece of the puzzle, if I can get charging working on the work bench then I will feel confident I can just toss all the bits in the Rabbit and she will run and drive

• ZombieVerter VCU
  • Wiki: ZombieVerter VCU

• BMW 330e PHEV battery pack
  • Wiki: BMW Hybrid Battery Pack

• Mitsubishi Outlander battery charger
  • Forum: Mitsubishi outlander charger and DC:DC
  • Wiki: Mitsubishi Outlander DCDC OBC

Ha!! Works on the bench then in the car....not a chance unless your tom de Brees or some other wiring god!!
I would advise everything being on a permanent live initially then slowly move things to switched after (except dcdc enabled otherwise you'll blow your pre charge relay) ... I had to rip out my loom because I was too ambitious...it looks like it's a race to the finish between you, (rabbit) me (mx5) and Jamie's 320d...I got my sbox to work in the car at 1030 last night!!!

rstevens81 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 09, 2024 3:25 pm I would advise everything being on a permanent live initially then slowly move things to switched after (except dcdc enabled otherwise you'll blow your pre charge relay)

would you mind kindly explaining that in Fork Lift Terms, FLTs ?

On the outlander obc/dcdc there is a 12v input to enable the dcdc, however you don't want this on during precharge otherwise it will try and draw current to run the dcdc (alternator), the easiest way to achieve this is so run a relay on the high contactor output of zombie (yes the outputs still work even though you are using the sbox). Running coolant pump of the same relay is probably a good idea. Obs inverter connected to inverter output.

At least for the early stages where you are likely to need to use saavycan to diagnose what's going on/chy is the fluffing campus not working....wire the dcdc, sbox, zombie to permanent live.

Add relay to Low contactor which is then used to power sbox obc etc once you know it's all working... Thisis optional it's questionable if this step is worth the effort if your using a full sized 12v battery as it adds complexity that adds another failure point, measure your idle (ignition off) current draw and work out how long battery will last, then decide.(and use original ice battery with a disconnect for times when you know its going to be left i.e. at airport etc....the clock will stop...however remove it as every Bluetooth radio you can buy will pull the time from rds data and use that for a clock many people buy cheap android radios so they can see webui data of soc, cell volts, amps etc


Summay
1. Relay on high contactor output, connect to obc dcdc 12v enable
2. Connect coolant pump to (1.) relay
3. Connect obc/dcdc(the other 2 12v inputs) , sbox and zombie to permanent live so we get cunbus data!
4. Inverter connected to inverter output on zombie/powered by zombie.
5. Decide if you want to do 6...
6. Once it's all working reliably, then try putting relay on low contactor output to power sbox, dcdc etc. do this one at a time.
7. Isolator switch to disconnect everything when you leave car parked to stop flatt battery
8. Fit Bluetooth radio as replacement clock or fit android radios to show funky gauges

Step 1. Measurize the BMW 330e HV battery pack baseline voltage




this is a very small battery pack, the only reason I chose it was because of it's form factor and squarish box, it is only 7.6 kWh (killer watt hours) and the magic number is 3.5 miles per killer watt, so 7.6 times 3.5 equals a range of 26.6 miles, but it's perfect for prototyping

all set up for charging, fingers crossed


confirming the Outlander charger plus and negative high voltage input from the battery pack, trust but verify

this thing has a bunch of grounds

I love these snap connector things:

Charging BMW 330e Hybrid Battery Pack using a Mitsubishi Outlander Charger & ZombieVerter no amps!!!





the ZombieVerter VCU controls (talks to) the Mitsubishi Outlander on CAN Bus 2 so it uses these two pins on the connector

Mitsubishi Outlander Charger ZombieVerter VCU Working

Ten Steps To Final(ish) Assembly

1. reinstall charger
2. install battery pack
3. install water pump
4. reinstall steering column
5. reinstall seats
6. plumb cooling system
7. low voltage wirring
8. remount VCU
9. high voltage wiring
10. install new tail light lenses

Gregski wrote: ↑Tue Jun 18, 2024 3:35 pm Ten Steps To Final(ish) Assembly

1. reinstall charger
2. install battery pack
3. install water pump
4. reinstall steering column
5. reinstall seats
6. plumb cooling system
7. low voltage wirring
8. remount VCU
9. high voltage wiring
10. install new tail light lenses

So that's Saturday sorted, Wot you doing on Sunday?