openinverter forum

I prefer the limited ones actually, it's slightly stressful to overtake with 120 kph when people come flying by at 180 or so.

For this experiment its good of course

New motor mount!

And you know what? It still twists under load and touches the chassis

johu wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2023 3:10 pm New motor mount!

And you know what? It still twists under load and touches the chassis

Yeah... I made all the same mistakes and i am mechanical engineer .
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/tag/mounts/

You need to observe how the mount moves and then design a suitable box closed mount. The box will hold rigidity and the distance between walls will keep it from bending. I will assert you need a welder to do this, but when done it will hold.
I will volunteer if we decide to go north with my Pug in autumn . I can bring my MIG welder with me... flux welding not CO2 mind you...
Could you draw me a profile of how the mount connects to the motor?

Thanks, great offer Then I can also return the isolated 13mm wrench

Not sure about welding here. The twisty part is this The Nissan motor mount "tongue" only has one central hole and is made from alu.

I have more alu box but lost faith in it after the first attempt: Since you asked
[media]https://openinverter.org/files/mount.mp4[/media]

OK... If you would remove the complete box and mount from the motor (!) and make a new CAD (cardboard) design of the arm from the motor to the car mount. You can then send me the drawing so i can make the arm from steel.
I actually got news my friend just got a Leaf motor here and it is EM57 so you can just make a rough design with dimensions between motor bolts and chassis bolts, i will take care of motor interface.

What you want is a mount that is as far from the chassis as possible. Ony from the top will it come in contact with the chassis mount/bolts. I recommend a Z shape. If you wanrt You can account for inverter mounting points as well.

Oh cool!
Yes will get some measurements then. Can I measure from the original mount and you convert that to your newly constructed one? It's kind of hard to measure from the motor directly plus I'm not very skilful.

johu wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2023 4:19 pm Oh cool!
Yes will get some measurements then. Can I measure from the original mount and you convert that to your newly constructed one? It's kind of hard to measure from the motor directly plus I'm not very skilful.

OK then. You measure from the point of the single bolt. This will be your 0 coordinate. You need to give me three coordinates in space for each of your mounting bolts on the side of the chassis. Orient your system to the direction the driver is facing. Also please make a drawing of the upper plate so i will have a plain for the mount.

I will then draw and cut the new mount and weld it in two pieces. When i arrive at your place we will cut both pieces to size and weld both pieces together into one mount.

Bit off topic of your current discussion, but reading you wiki page for driving the fuel gauge. I've only get a single resistance for my sender, this schematic look like what you're describing?

Bigpie wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2023 7:50 pm IMG_20230726_201916196.jpg
Bit off topic of your current discussion, but reading you wiki page for driving the fuel gauge. I've only get a single resistance for my sender, this schematic look like what you're describing?

https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... age-drive/

The point of the mosfet is to quickly put the dial in short in between the full/empty resistor. European cars normally have empty state at 330R and full at 20R. US cars in reverse.

Awesome. Thanks

Bigpie wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2023 7:50 pm Bit off topic of your current discussion, but reading you wiki page for driving the fuel gauge. I've only get a single resistance for my sender, this schematic look like what you're describing?

I've actually put the capacitor onto the transistor base, thereby the transistor is working in its linear region. Supposedly Tourans fuel tank sensor doesn't like PWM.

Now back to the motor mount. I ordered lower and harder rubber dampeners and these solve the problem as they don't let the motor move away so much. So I think I'll just leave it like that. You're still welcome to stop by When would that be?

Johannes, you don't have a welder?

This should be remedied!

You can get cheap welders... really cheap nowadays.

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Fri Jul 28, 2023 5:03 pm Johannes, you don't have a welder?

This should be remedied!

You can get cheap welders... really cheap nowadays.

I agree! I intend to take my MIG rig with me next time and i will teach him few weld steps .
Why does this sound odd...

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Fri Jul 28, 2023 5:03 pm Johannes, you don't have a welder?

As opposed to Sandy Munro I believe in "threaded fasteners"

arber333 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 28, 2023 7:06 pm I agree! I intend to take my MIG rig with me next time and i will teach him few weld steps .
Why does this sound odd...

Maybe that changes my belief just like driving an EV converts many petrolheads

johu wrote: ↑Fri Jul 28, 2023 12:39 pm I've actually put the capacitor onto the transistor base, thereby the transistor is working in its linear region. Supposedly Tourans fuel tank sensor doesn't like PWM.

Don't suppose you could knock up a quick circuit sketch? Pwm'ing to ground bypassing a trim pot still oscillates. I've gone up to 20kHz but still jiggles. I struggle to understand transistors, can just about muddle my way to use them as a switch.

johu wrote: ↑Fri Jul 28, 2023 8:37 pm As opposed to Sandy Munro I believe in "threaded fasteners"
......
Maybe that changes my belief just like driving an EV converts many petrolheads

Well i also keep the faith in threaded fasteners as a good ME believer...
But i really like to weld. There is something prehistoric in joining two metal pieces together... just feels right .

https://www.hessenschau.de/tv-sendung/u ... 86412.html

Johannes in the news
very well done.

Augmented the heating today by finally fitting the heating mats in the back rests.
Now a major building block is being able to turn the car on while rapid charging - to be able to keep yourself warm while charging.

I think this will come along with a charge port swap to CCS. Waiting for uhis first populated version of the STM32 CCS controller.
To my surprise a CCS port would actually fit into the fuel filler "cabinet". It's just a matter of bolting it on there.

Repair day today. Since over one year I had occasional faulty cell readings on cell 90 and 91. They would come good for a second then suddenly one would jump up 100 mV and one down 100 mV. Quite obvious that this was a loose wire. I "fixed" the problem a number of times by poking around with a stick but of course it never actually cured it for long. The last poking action pulled the wire out completely so now I could no longer ignore the issue - power limits 0 kW and invalid SoC reading.

So today I put the car on a lift and dropped the front battery brick. It is surprisingly dirty on top and a few spiders nested there.
Anyway, when I re-arranged the cells from Nissans little towers to one single brick I needed to extend 4 cell tap wires by a bit and did so by inserting two wires into ferrules and then not using a proper crimping tool. I now use solder shrinks. That problem should be fixed for good or at least until I put in the next larger battery.

Plugged the car in for charging and noticed that after one hour charge power had dropped to 2.3 kW instead of 3.3. And also temperature had risen to 91°C. Oops. Went down and found the pump shaking but not pumping. Power cycling got it going again but on the next test drive it died again and couldn't be revived. It's the second pump of this kind (1K0965561F) that died on me: Put in a little Bosch pump, lets see how that goes.

Did you consider using a larger pump? A pump that's not running at it's maximum capacity might live longer?
Were you using new pumps (cheap knockoffs?) or used original pumps?

I reckon cheap knockoffs because new and cheap.

It's a complete mystery how it can go wrong, it's brushless and the rotor is hermetically sealed from the stator. Maybe I'll open it.

Larger pump... I'll see as it would require some LIN or PWM to slow it down.

The larger vw Bosch pumps don’t need pwm ( although you can control them with pwm) if pwm pin is left unconnected the pump waits a couple of seconds then fires up at 100%, if the pump is dry and no load detected it will shut off again.

I swapped from one of those small vw copies to the larger vw Bosch as the small copy ones would randomly chose not to start

I run my larger one full speed, it doesn’t draw much more current than the little guy it’s no louder either

It seems that there are a lot knockoffs 1K0965561F floating around from AliExpress to ebay, I would say poor quality components

I must let the pump off the hook, it was my wiring. I joined to wires with ferrules and that didn't make proper contact because I chose the wrong size. Unfortunately I decapped the pump for finding out...

Now during my trip to Mannheim the BMS suddenly would no longer start when turning the car on. Something was wrong with one of the two enable signals.

So today I inspected the problem. To make it short: the main BMS harness got caught between battery and chassis and one enable signal is now shorted to ground. That's another visit to the lift then. Thankfully no other signals are affected - so far. Fault found but still very annoyed at myself.