EV build Nissan Leaf donor

[sfk]

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Have moved this project to a new thread but lots of info still below - viewtopic.php?f=11&t=222
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I am planning a conversion of a rear wheel drive car (rwd). I want to ditch the gearbox (because it's auto) and drive the driveshaft directly (or even the rear differential if space allows).

I know the Nissan Leaf drives the motor through a 8 > 1 fixed reduction ratio gear set, meaning all speeds are achieved by controlling motor RPM alone.

So I know this can be workable for a 1600kg car (the Leaf) and I'm expecting my build to be similar (stock weight 1500kg).

The rear differential has a ratio of 4.3 > 1. I'd rather not install a manual gearbox just so I can get 1 gear to correct the final ratio to something close to 8 > 1 (probably 2nd or 3rd) because this car never had a manual gearbox option.

So my question is this : what will be the consequences of running the Nissan Leaf AC motor in the 0-5000rpm instead of the usual 0-8000rpm?

I know the acceleration will take a nose dive which isn't terribly important to me right now. There is a higher top speed possible (on same diameter tyres).

Can the performance of the motor be corrected with higher voltage or current?

The other option is a 2 > 1 reduction planetary gear set between the motor and the diff which would give 8.6 > 1 final ratio. Or a different ring and pinion in the rear diff housing but not sure ratios go that high.

Steve K

[sfk]

The tyre rolling diameter is almost exactly the same between cars. I have calculated that at 100kph the Leaf motor is spinning at around 6700rpm.

If the motor was driving a 4.3:1 ratio rear diff directly it would be spinning around 3600rpm at 100kph.

Anyone have some power and torque curves for the Leaf?
I remember reading somewhere that the Leaf motor looks like it is capable of a higher current judging by the design.

Sk

[doobedoobedo]

I'm planning on doing a similar thing, but doing away with the original car's complete drivetrain and installing the leaf motor + reduction gear as a rear transaxle. If you separate the the electronics boxes from the top would you have enough room to do the same?

The car I'm looking at converting has quite a large fuel tank just in front to the rear axle and the motor would fit in there. It also means batteries could be put in the transmission tunnel.

[johu]

Only found some data on the German wikipedia: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Le ... sche_Daten

So apparently it reaches full power at 3008rpm. Any higher than that will just sustain 80kW or in other words, torque declines (linearly with speed, apparently). So of course you loose acceleration driving 4:1 instead of 8:1 but you will not loose power when limiting rpm to 5000.

Practice still has to show how much the motor can be over-powered with its original inverter.

[sfk]

I'm planning on doing a similar thing, but doing away with the original car's complete drivetrain and installing the leaf motor + reduction gear as a rear transaxle. If you separate the the electronics boxes from the top would you have enough room to do the same?

The car I'm looking at converting has quite a large fuel tank just in front to the rear axle and the motor would fit in there. It also means batteries could be put in the transmission tunnel.

I wrote a fairly lengthy reply and failed to send it so I'll summarize:

Yes, I have considered that as it seems like a fairly elegant solution. But thinking about it more reveals the extensive reconfiguration of the rear subframe required and made me consider a more generic approach that could be used for almost any RWD car.

I think the Leaf motor is probably small enough to fit in any transmission tunnel in the gearbox position and possibly at the rear end eliminating the driveshaft for further weight reduction.

I don't have a Leaf motor yet to check any configuration.

Sk

[sfk]

Only found some data on the German wikipedia: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Le ... sche_Daten

So apparently it reaches full power at 3008rpm. Any higher than that will just sustain 80kW or in other words, torque declines (linearly with speed, apparently). So of course you loose acceleration driving 4:1 instead of 8:1 but you will not loose power when limiting rpm to 5000.

Practice still has to show how much the motor can be over-powered with its original inverter.

Wow. This is very promising news as it simplifies things a great deal.

Sk

[damian.lo]

Hi all,

I'm really happy, that it was not only my idea to put Leaf motor to RWD car with/without gearbox. My interface plate between them is now in designing, so in next weeks I hope I will put this to CNC machine for milling
I have BMW E87 now prepared without engine and other gas stuff and like I already spoke with someone here in first step I want to put with gearbox to check current/speed/acc and then I will decide in which way I can go. My point will be to go without gearbox only with differential, which is 3.7:1

[sfk]

Hi Damian. Are you Damien Maguire?

I am toying with the idea of putting stuff up on YouTube too as a way to give back to the community and maybe provide some help to others. And I've been taking videos and photos as I get into my project for this purpose but it can be a chore and distraction to stop and do this. I haven't even tried to assemble any of it into sort of presentation yet.

I'm also glad for this fresh new forum and hope it will focus things a bit for this type of project.

I think it may be helpful at this point to describe what I'm trying to do and why. The car is a Eunos Cosmo. It was launched by Mazda in 1990 as the flagship of it's new luxury brand to compete with Lexus, Infinity, Acura etc. It was the only car ever made with the 20B triple rotor Wankel engine. It was sold in very low numbers (approx 8000) and only in Japan. Less than half had the 20B engine as it was also sold with the 13B engine (same as the RX-7). Because the 20B engine is so rare and sought after, many of these car have had their engines robbed and sent to scrap.

The car I have is a rolling body. It originally had the 13B engine. I want to save it from being scrapped and looked at putting the 20B engine in it but the cost of doing so is quite high due to the scarcity. I also looked at swapping in another engine which has a different set of problems. But now I'm quite committed to converting to electric.

I commute to work 4 times a week. My drive is 80km each direction and it takes about an hour each way. I'm doing about 30,000km each year! I currently drive an Audi A4 and like it very much but fuel costs are getting ridiculous. And it feels very wasteful. I looked at buying a Nissan Leaf (which is a truly hideous car) but can't get the range unless I buy something quite new and I'd rather spend that money elsewhere.

I live in New Zealand, an hour north of Wellington (the capital) and that's where I work in the film industry. I need a car with at least 160km range as I can't rely on charging during the day at this stage. Possibly in the future. For now I need about 200km and a recharge time < 8 hours. I have 450V 3 phase power at home. I have a workshop with car lift and a milling machine, mig welder etc. I buy wrecked cars and strip them for parts selling them online through NZ's equivalent of eBay (it's called TradeMe) as a sort of money making hobby. I do servicing and repairs on my own car fleet.

I am most interested in the Nissan Leaf as a donor vehicle as it's the only affordable EV in my country so any work to reuse this drivetrain is of special interest to me. I know cars can be converted with off-the-shelf industrial components if you are doing a one off with decent budget but this isn't an acceptable approach for me as I have a strong reduce/reuse/recycle ethos I try to follow with everything I do. I'm also kinda interested in seeing if this could turn into a EV conversion business in the future so cheap generic solutions are best.

Steve Karl

[arber333]

Hi sfk

Couple of years back i had the same problem. I had to compromise with cells as only LiFe chemistry was available. I managed to cram 30kWh worth of cells into Mazda MX-3. All was well and good in summer. I could reach my round route even with highway driving for every day untill winter. Winter generally takes away some 12% of range because of cold. BUT you must account for another 15% reduction if there is water on the road! I havent accounted with that and couple of times i drained my cells just before home. It was really frustrating!

In general i expect 30kWh to give cca 160km range with moderate highway driving. If you want 200km you would have to have at least 38kwh worth. Then something to extend cell life and it quickly becomes 40kWh. So maybe 2x 1gen Leaf batteries like Johannes is trying to do?

If you have 3ph AC available then you can charge using diy EMW charger or one additional Johannes inverter setup in buck mode.
I use my EMW charger without boost(PFC) stage and get cca 11kW charging. I can fill it up in 3hrs, but in general i use 8kW not to stress fuses too much.

I found out it is best if i write blog and put pics directly to articles there. That way i keep a log of my work because in couple of months i forget how and why i did something .
https://mazdamx3ev.wordpress.com/
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/

[damian.lo]

Hi Sfk and Arber,

Sfk - sorry I'm not Damien Maguire, but other one from Poland But really want ALL of the knowledge what Damien have in his brain I saw tons of his videos on YT about conversions and Prius controller hacking - really good thing to study
I have controller from Johannes let's say almost done, so now next steps will be some trials on bench - gearbox with motor and etc. But next of them will be to think about chargers and BMS. I saw, that on Johannes website is written about possibilites of charging battery - only thing I have to put DC voltage.
Know someone and can explain me if in this case is sense to buy normal charger like Elcon or other - what is better or worse solution? For BMS I want to use Orion used by CAN with rest of stuff.

[arber333]

Hi Sfk and Arber,

Sfk - sorry I'm not Damien Maguire, but other one from Poland But really want ALL of the knowledge what Damien have in his brain I saw tons of his videos on YT about conversions and Prius controller hacking - really good thing to study
I have controller from Johannes let's say almost done, so now next steps will be some trials on bench - gearbox with motor and etc. But next of them will be to think about chargers and BMS. I saw, that on Johannes website is written about possibilites of charging battery - only thing I have to put DC voltage.
Know someone and can explain me if in this case is sense to buy normal charger like Elcon or other - what is better or worse solution? For BMS I want to use Orion used by CAN with rest of stuff.

Recently i managed to run a lot of dedicated EV chargers through CAN bus. I really think this is the better option than buying aftermarket charger. Well only if you can get 8kW one for a good price... I put some protocol for different CAN based chargers on blog that are not so expensive for 3kW single phase. I allways recommend 400Vdc system due to the fact that many appliances like heaters or lights can work with that voltage.
Also they are usually liquid cooled and you can use the same system as for inverter/motor cooling.
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/201 ... w-charger/

[sfk]

In general i expect 30kWh to give cca 160km range with moderate highway driving. If you want 200km you would have to have at least 38kwh worth. Then something to extend cell life and it quickly becomes 40kWh. So maybe 2x 1gen Leaf batteries like Johannes is trying to do?

Yes. 2 gen 1 or early gen 2 Leaf packs would provide approx 48Kwh. Just a matter of finding enough space and keeping the weight down. I know the newer Leafs have higher energy density batteries but occupy the same volume. And finally there is also the generic cells which can be bought in a range of shapes.

I have space in the engine bay, the boot, the gas tank location, the spare tyre well, where the rear mufflers were, the drive tunnel and the 2 rear seats. The hope is to separate the motor and reduction gearbox to mount in the rear subframe where the diff is, and spread the other components where they fit. That's the benefit of electric I guess.

sk

[sfk]

Hi all,

I'm really happy, that it was not only my idea to put Leaf motor to RWD car with/without gearbox. My interface plate between them is now in designing, so in next weeks I hope I will put this to CNC machine for milling
I have BMW E87 now prepared without engine and other gas stuff and like I already spoke with someone here in first step I want to put with gearbox to check current/speed/acc and then I will decide in which way I can go. My point will be to go without gearbox only with differential, which is 3.7:1

I would be very interested in hearing how this works in real life with a ratio so different from the original. I've boon looking online for reduction gearboxes that could be placed between the motor and rear diff. Hard to find anything that can handle 8000rpm and 100Nm torque. Could be either epicyclic planetary gears, or spur gears or even a chain drive.

sk

[sfk]

If you have 3ph AC available then you can charge using diy EMW charger or one additional Johannes inverter setup in buck mode.
I use my EMW charger without boost(PFC) stage and get cca 11kW charging. I can fill it up in 3hrs, but in general i use 8kW not to stress fuses too much.

Not super concerned with fast charging to begin with. Just needs to charge overnight while I'm at home sleeping! The option would certainly be welcome though.

sk

[sfk]

I found out it is best if i write blog and put pics directly to articles there. That way i keep a log of my work because in couple of months i forget how and why i did something .
https://mazdamx3ev.wordpress.com/
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/

Hi Arber,

looks like you've been messing around with motors and inverters for awhile now and must have learned a lot since beginning. If you were going to use a single Nissan Leaf as a donor on a project you were starting today, what parts of the car would you use and what parts would you replace?

I will use this thread as a sort of diary I think. Sounds like a good idea.

sk

[sfk]

Here's where I'm up to -

I bought the car. Not because it would be sensible or easy to convert to electric, but because I wanted to save it from being crushed. I wasn't looking for a car actually, one just happened to come up for sale which is very rare and I didn't want to miss the chance.

The car is a 1994 Eunos Cosmo 2+2 GT rotary coupe made by Mazda. It is front engined, rear drive and automatic. The car at the time still had a rotary engine in it. A 13B. But the owner wanted to keep the engine and sell the remainder. I arranged to go and see the car and assess it. I decided to buy it and after we had agreed on a price he pulled the engine out within a week and left the car on the road outside his storage building for me to come collect on a trailer.


It looks like this, but in a much worse state.

Once I got it home I cleaned it as it had been left outside for some time and started making note of what was broken, what was missing and other things that needed attention. I joined a Facebook group for Cosmo owners and I recommend you do something similar. Initially I was intending to find a 20B engine (a bigger rotary) and put that in. This proved to be financially unviable due to scarcity of supply. I considered a 13B from a RX7 or even RX8 but didn't think it would be worth the effort. I also looked at a Toyota Supra 2JZ-GTE which is also fairly expensive.

All of these options would leave me with a thirsty car that I would only drive occasionally. I then started thinking about converting to electric. Then I could use it for my daily commute. I had looked at doing an electric car conversion many years ago when DC motors and lead-acid batteries where common. And even then it was still a very expensive idea with very limited range. Technology has obviously moved on a lot and you get better range and performance with AC and lithium but it still costs about the same.

Now that EVs are becoming common from major manufacturers the basic componentry should be very affordable. I haven't bought any EV parts yet but it's likely to be a crashed Nissan Leaf as this is about as cheap as it gets. My hope is to repurpose as many components as possible to keep costs down. In the meantime I have been stripping out the Cosmo and thinking about how the car's wiring system is going to interface with the EV systems.

sk

[arber333]

I found out it is best if i write blog and put pics directly to articles there. That way i keep a log of my work because in couple of months i forget how and why i did something .
https://mazdamx3ev.wordpress.com/
https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/

Hi Arber,

looks like you've been messing around with motors and inverters for awhile now and must have learned a lot since beginning. If you were going to use a single Nissan Leaf as a donor on a project you were starting today, what parts of the car would you use and what parts would you replace?

I will use this thread as a sort of diary I think. Sounds like a good idea.

sk

My plan is such:
+ For my built i decided on Ampera inverter with one set of IGBT populated. You can use Leaf inverter no problem, Johannes has an application for that.
+I will use EM61 Leaf motor with gearbox and driveshafts. I dont want to go with transmission again, too many problems for me... But you can actually use the front part of the Wankel motor as an adapter. If you cut the motor case behind the front bearing you would get a mating surface to transmission and you can use front part of engine shaft to couple with transmission. For paralelling surfaces use a milling machine. Then cut the engine shaft to lenght behind the front bearing. You can cut female splines into a shaft or make your own adapter.
+ My car is FWD so i intend to just bolt in the gearbox and motor and cut and splice the shafts as they go. I will cut the driveshafts to length and join them using sleeves with rosette welds like here.

+ I will be using Ampera APM 12V module to generate 12V directly from 400Vdc.
+ I havent decided yet on the power steering. I have Opel Astra 12V hydraulic pump and Ampera EPAS assembly. I am trying to run the latter. I bet Leaf uses EPAS. You would have to try and weake it up with CAN bus, but its good since Johannes inverter can spit out CAN bus messages.
+ For brake boost pump i will use Hella UP28 or UP30 pump that i can get from scraped Opel Vectra petrol or some Volvo car. It comes together with pressure switch and nonreturn valve. I will not use vacuum reservoir since it only takes up space.
+ As battery i intend to use 2x Volt/Ampera packs. Its not about range so much. I intend to use the car to max up the power to the motor as well as try to prepare system for Chademo charging directly to battery. I see this is the much prefered option since i rarely venture beyond 160km range. At the time i want to be able to charge as fast as possible. But it will be a couple times a year only.
+ BMS i will try hard to use Ampera original system with some Arduino microcontroller translating CAN signals for charger and Chademo system.
+ For charging i will also use one Eltek water cooled charger 3kW for through the night charging. Well certainly i will use EMW 3ph charger design adapted to my system for 20kW L2 EVSE charging. We ll see how the actual application will go.

[sfk]

Electrical engineering is possibly the thing I know least about so kinda ironic I would be attempting an EV conversion. I'm hoping y'all will be patient with my stupid questions! I don't want to electrocute myself or burn down my workshop....

[arber333]

Let me console you... i am a mechanical engineer with little prior education in electrical before i started EV.
I then gradually upgraded my understanding of EE concepts until i understootd basics of inverter operation. I can apply different feedback loops and know how to set parameters etc... but sadly i am no programmer so i have to wait for new release of firmware to be able to use it.

I sometimes got good ideas, but implementation is still on people who know their stuff. Like Johannes.

[sfk]

Right now I am in Phase I - acquisition and planning.

I have acquired the rolling chassis car.
I have assessed condition of the car.
I have begun research.
I have started making plans.
I have started to buy parts for any repairs.
I have stripped most of the interior.
I have sourced workshop manuals and wiring diagrams (Japanese only! )
I have been taking photo sets for photogrammetry 3D modeling.

I need to get the car a VIN (NZ Vehicle Identification Number)
I need to buy a wrecked Nissan Leaf and finish my plans once I have those components

[sfk]

Why do I need a VIN? Well, because the car doesn't have one.
Why? Long story which I have heard 2nd hand from the seller of the car.



So this car was imported into NZ from Japan by a used car dealer about 2hrs away from me. For some reason the car was not VINned and complied upon import. Don't know the exact reason. It could have been a number of reasons. After it was imported and before it was complied someone broke into the car with a screwdriver in the driver's door lock and smashed the ignition key barrel. The car dealer then took an intake ducting pipe from the engine bay to fix another car and this one sat in storage for a couple of years.

The guy I bought it from is in the vehicle transport business and made an offer to buy the car because he wanted the engine. He listed it for sale with the stipulation that it would be minus engine upon sale. I went to see it and took some photos and video of the car and agreed to buy it with the intention of putting the right sort of engine back in it. It came with the correct documentation (Japanese deregistration certificate) I would need to register it here for road use.

After replacing the ignition barrel I was able to power up the electronics, but only part of the instrument gauge cluster works. It has 2 analogue gauges for speed and revs and 2 digital readouts. 1 for fuel level and engine temp, and 1 for AC temp, trip & odometer.

Typically the VIN and Compliance processes are done at the same time when a vehicle is imported. The VIN creates an identity for the car in the system. The compliance process ensures it meets all the rules for roadworthiness, safety and emissions etc.

To pass compliance with a modified vehicle, it has to be inspected and pass a Low Volume Vehicle certificate. Converting a previously petrol powered car to electric involves a LVV inspection. However, to get a LVV, the car needs to have a VIN.



I spoke to someone on the phone about the VIN process here in New Zealand. My concerns involved the fact the car was not running, because it has no engine for example, and the odometer could not be verified since the digital gauge cluster is not working. Seems this is not an issue for the VIN process. I can take the car on a trailer. But I do need to verify the chain of ownership in case there is any dispute. I got signed statements from the 2 previous owners (the car dealership and the guy I bought it off) so should be good to go in that department.

I don't want to begin any serious work on the car until I have a VIN otherwise it may never be road legal!

[Peter]

Hi sfk. Interesting dilemma you have, seems here in the UK we have the same sort of situation.... however doing the mods before the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Authority will allow the re-registration from ICE to EV. I had to prove all the work that has/had been done with pictures and a write up on headed notepaper from a local garage who took great interest in the work and were a help. There are a few other ways to prove the work but two of them are impossible unless you are drinking buddies with the owner of a major motor manufacturer ! A few tense weeks waiting for the re-registration to be accepted or declined, in my case accepted second time around. Next is an MOT, wonder if it will pass emissions ?? Then its insurance, not cheap either as its classed as a 'one off', they accept the value I give them and work on that I guess. So to keep cost down a little I could under value the car but that could come back and bite me should the worst happen. All this has to be considered before the cost of everything else, base car, EV parts, batteries, chassis/running gear mods, etc. Then its months of hard work but the day those wheels turn and you pass the petrol/gas station flicking a finger at the inflated prices and get a wave from the 'greens' its all worth it Hope all goes well with your project. Peter

[sfk]

Hi sfk. Interesting dilemma you have, seems here in the UK we have the same sort of situation.... however doing the mods before the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Authority will allow the re-registration from ICE to EV.

Interesting. As far as I know here in NZ the designation of "EV" would be applied at the registration step of the process which comes after the VIN (and that is solely a unique identification and entry into the database).

Currently EVs are exempt from Road User charges as the only incentive the government offers to encourage uptake of electric vehicles. Yes. That's all. Equivalent to about NZ$100 a year. Road User charges are added to the price of petrol at the fuel pump, and calculated per KM travelled for diesel vehicles, multiplied by the general vehicle weight.

[sfk]

So I've been digging around looking for a couple of items to prevent me from having to change my brakes and steering too much.

As y'all probably know, the power steering racks of cars up to mid 2000's were generally hydraulically assisted. And the hydraulic pressure required was usually generated by a power steering pump driven by a pulley on the accessory drive belt of the engine. This is the case for my Cosmo too. I don't have the PS pump as it was attached to the engine when removed and if I did have it I wouldn't be using it anyway.

Most power steering on modern cars is assisted by electric motors, either on the rack or on the steering shaft. Neither of these options are particularly great for me as swapping steering racks would involve a lot of trial and error to find something that fits and has the right geometry and changing up the steering shaft has safety and other engineering troubles. There are after market solutions to add EPAS (electronically power assisted steering) to the shaft. These are usually for classic cars, race cars or ATVs. But are quite expensive.

There was however an interesting transition phase between hydraulic and electric systems. Hydraulic racks with electric pumps! This means I can keep the steering rack and steering column as is and have energy efficient and, I think, variable power assist for the steering. These systems were used where limited space in the engine bay prevented mounting the PS pump in the traditional location. I did a bit of research about suitable donors and found a basic list:

- Holden/Opel/Vauxhall Astra 97-06
- BMW Mini >02
- Peugeot 307
- Ford Focus >12
- Volvo S40
- Toyota Gen2 MR2
- Skoda Roomster

There could be more but seems the preference is for the Astra or MR2 pumps as they are "dumb" meaning they perform their own functions rather than requiring CANbus messaging from the car control systems. Furthermore, there seems to be 2 types of Astra pumps: one with cooling fins on the base and one without. The one without fins is the one to get.

Holden/Opel/Vuaxhall Astra electric power steer pump

The other issue is the braking system. My car was not fitted with ABS but it was an option at the time. But of course without the use of intake manifold vacuum generated as a by-product of a partially closed throttle, there is no power assistance for the braking system. After a bit of research I found a list of vehicles that use an electric vacuum assist pump in their braking systems. The reasons why an engine would be incapable of producing adequate vacuum for the braking systems of these cars isn't clear but it's probably irrelevant. The list includes:

- Audi A4 A6 TT Allroad around 2000ish
- VW Golf Jetta Bora Beetle Passat around 2000ish
- Mercedes C-class W203
- Volvo S60 XC90 S80 V70 XC70 around 99
- BMW 3 series E46

There are also after market vacuum pump systems which are pretty common but not overly cheap. It's possible these OEM pumps are for assistance only and not suitable for primary use, but I'm going to try the cheap option first.

XC90 brake assist vacuum pump
Audi brake assist vacuum pump

My local Pick-A-Part has the Astra, A4, A6, Allroad, VC90, Golf, Beetle, Passat, 307 and 3 series so I'm off to pull some parts myself for cheap...

[sfk]

So went out to the wreckers and grabbed a Astra electro-hydraulic power assist steering pump (EHPAS). Someone had been in there previously and was kind enough to carefully disconnect the hoses from the steering rack and unbolt the bracket too. I just had to disconnect the wiring and pull it out! I took the hoses and wiring looms complete including both sides of the electrical connector with a bit extra wire too.

It looks to me the Audi and Volvo vacuum pumps are the same but with different mountings. The Volvo XC90 was very easy to reach and hangs off the front slam panel next to the left headlight. It has a more useful looking bracket and I grabbed a bunch of 1-way vacuum check valves, hoses and electric solenoid valves too.

The Audi pump is easy to remove, but the bracket is much more of a PITA. It's integrated with the ABS pump as well as retainer clips for bits of the wiring loom etc. I started pulling it out but lost interest after about 1/2 hour and didn't have a socket extension long enough to get to a couple of low 10mm bolts. Would require all sorts of chopping up to use anyway.

Less than NZD$100 would have been a steal.
NZD$150 would have been good.
The lady at the exit charged me all sorts of extras because of the bits of hose and wiring I had. The actual PS pump was $48. And I think each vacuum pump was $18 because they were added as Air Control valves?? Total around $190 which is still really cheap to be honest.