Battery Service disconnect

doobedoobedo · Post by **doobedoobedo** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:46 am

I'm currently looking for a service disconnect, any suggestions for where best to source it?

I'm also considering placing my contactors in the centre of the battery so as to isolate the two halves when switched off, are there any downsides to this?

SciroccoEV · Post by **SciroccoEV** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:56 am

Usual arrangement is contactors on + and -, with disconnect in the centre, but that's with a monolithic pack.

If you can't salvage a disconnect, then you can make your own using off the shelf connectors. https://www.dalroad.com/products/electr ... omponents/

Kevin Sharpe · Post by **Kevin Sharpe** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:58 pm

Lots cheap Tyco parts around if 350A 690V is acceptable;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Disc ... 3958085070

doobedoobedo · Post by **doobedoobedo** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 2:20 pm

Awesome thanks Kevin. Pretty much exactly what I was looking for, just didn't have the correct search terms.

Still value some additional input on contactor placement.

tom91 · Post by **tom91** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 2:53 pm

Kevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:58 pm Lots cheap Tyco parts around if 350A 690V is acceptable;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Disc ... 3958085070

This is the: 1-2103172-2 I believe, might however be a different keying not too sure. datasheet: https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/41 ... 758279.pdf
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-2103172-7.html

You need a mating part for this one.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1587987-7.html

Available from mouser : https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/ ... FySbgWDw==

if you need a beefier one, Zero-EV just got one to take 400Amp Continuous and up to 1200Amp for a couple of seconds. https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/hv-fuse-4 ... isconnect/

tom91 · Post by **tom91** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 2:59 pm

doobedoobedo wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:46 am I'm also considering placing my contactors in the centre of the battery so as to isolate the two halves when switched off, are there any downsides to this?

Do you have one physical enclosure? If so, the best practice is to have the contractors at either end of the pack positive and negative, this way none of the bits outside the box are 'live'.

You can always ofcourse create a setup with a mid contactor that switched in sync with the negative contactor.

In case you do not have a single box best practice would dictate a contactor per box, and a disconnect and fuse per box. This is to ensure you never make a connection/damage a cable that will directly short out one box without a dedicated fuse.

doobedoobedo · Post by **doobedoobedo** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 3:46 pm

tom91 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 2:53 pm
Kevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:58 pm Lots cheap Tyco parts around if 350A 690V is acceptable;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Disc ... 3958085070
This is the: 1-2103172-2 I believe, might however be a different keying not too sure. datasheet: https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/41 ... 758279.pdf
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-2103172-7.html

You need a mating part for this one.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1587987-7.html

Available from mouser : https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/ ... FySbgWDw==

if you need a beefier one, Zero-EV just got one to take 400Amp Continuous and up to 1200Amp for a couple of seconds. https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/hv-fuse-4 ... isconnect/

I'll see when it arrives, but it may also be https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/electric ... s/8086762/

I also have a separate 400A fuse so I may replace the one in the disconnect with a shunt and use that. I'm hoping to be able to push up to around 500A through it for a couple of seconds.

tom91 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 2:59 pm
doobedoobedo wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:46 am I'm also considering placing my contactors in the centre of the battery so as to isolate the two halves when switched off, are there any downsides to this?
Do you have one physical enclosure? If so, the best practice is to have the contractors at either end of the pack positive and negative, this way none of the bits outside the box are 'live'.

You can always ofcourse create a setup with a mid contactor that switched in sync with the negative contactor.

In case you do not have a single box best practice would dictate a contactor per box, and a disconnect and fuse per box. This is to ensure you never make a connection/damage a cable that will directly short out one box without a dedicated fuse.

All connections will be enclosed, I don't have boxes as yet as I haven't completed working out the layout. I'll have 10 10S modules and was going to put the contactors so that nothing was over 200V unless the system was fully live. If there's a good reason not to do this then I'll change it.

arber333 · Post by **arber333** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 4:52 pm

You can use already available parts like this one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chevrolet-Vo ... 2461662235

I have one just like it and will install it on one rail. if some day i get more powerfull battery i can install another one alongside it.

doobedoobedo · Post by **doobedoobedo** » Mon Dec 30, 2019 7:18 pm

arber333 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 4:52 pm You can use already available parts like this one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chevrolet-Vo ... 2461662235

I have one just like it and will install it on one rail. if some day i get more powerfull battery i can install another one alongside it.

Cool another option. Ampera/Volt stuff is like hen's teeth in the UK.

Battery Service disconnect

Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect

Re: Battery Service disconnect