openinverter Community
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This is the: 1-2103172-2 I believe, might however be a different keying not too sure. datasheet: https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/41 ... 758279.pdfKevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:58 pm Lots cheap Tyco parts around if 350A 690V is acceptable;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Disc ... 3958085070
Do you have one physical enclosure? If so, the best practice is to have the contractors at either end of the pack positive and negative, this way none of the bits outside the box are 'live'.doobedoobedo wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:46 am I'm also considering placing my contactors in the centre of the battery so as to isolate the two halves when switched off, are there any downsides to this?
I'll see when it arrives, but it may also be https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/electric ... s/8086762/tom91 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 2:53 pmThis is the: 1-2103172-2 I believe, might however be a different keying not too sure. datasheet: https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/41 ... 758279.pdfKevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 12:58 pm Lots cheap Tyco parts around if 350A 690V is acceptable;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Disc ... 3958085070
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-2-2103172-7.html
You need a mating part for this one.
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-1587987-7.html
Available from mouser : https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/ ... FySbgWDw==
if you need a beefier one, Zero-EV just got one to take 400Amp Continuous and up to 1200Amp for a couple of seconds. https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/hv-fuse-4 ... isconnect/
All connections will be enclosed, I don't have boxes as yet as I haven't completed working out the layout. I'll have 10 10S modules and was going to put the contactors so that nothing was over 200V unless the system was fully live. If there's a good reason not to do this then I'll change it.tom91 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 2:59 pmDo you have one physical enclosure? If so, the best practice is to have the contractors at either end of the pack positive and negative, this way none of the bits outside the box are 'live'.doobedoobedo wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 11:46 am I'm also considering placing my contactors in the centre of the battery so as to isolate the two halves when switched off, are there any downsides to this?
You can always ofcourse create a setup with a mid contactor that switched in sync with the negative contactor.
In case you do not have a single box best practice would dictate a contactor per box, and a disconnect and fuse per box. This is to ensure you never make a connection/damage a cable that will directly short out one box without a dedicated fuse.
Cool another option. Ampera/Volt stuff is like hen's teeth in the UK.arber333 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 30, 2019 4:52 pm You can use already available parts like this one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chevrolet-Vo ... 2461662235
I have one just like it and will install it on one rail. if some day i get more powerfull battery i can install another one alongside it.