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This is my first all wheel drive car. Bought it because we have winters with snow and ice here. I am driving daily i-MiEV (RWD) or Leaf (FWD) and frequently feel that with one driving axle electric motor potential is not fully used. I have had a chance to try Jaguar i-pace, so I wanted and electric 4WD car for myself too.
The car was already without diesel boxer engine. Seller told me that this car was the first new diesel Subaru sold in Estonia. I want to give this car second life with electric power. Body is not bad, much better then my first car conversion. But I'll lift it up and then we'll see what I got. There are plastic covers on sides and under covers also, these need to be removed to see the real situation.
Buying decision was made when I saw here in openinverter forum two Legacy models that's conversion has been started. And I saw that these cars have electric power steering! This is very important since steering system changing is not allowed here. I will keep the original manual transmission to get it running like 4WD car should and attach first gen Leaf motor to it.
I haven't decided the way to build up the electrical system but I have full Leaf electric system in my garage with wiring and all the parts except battery. I have tried many months but not managed to get the Leaf harness and system to work yet. I am thinking of buying some 96S plug in hybrid pack for this project. I need to fit everything in engine compartment maybe onboard charger can be at the rear. Heating will be electric and webasto. Car was equipped with AC, someday may add leaf AC compressor also.
Here Chademo chargers are being replaced so the car needs a CCS fast charging system also.
Zombiverter would control most of the parts but does it handle the 2012 Leaf high voltage junction block
(actually it's called PDM power delivery module) and I got the answer from forum here:
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=5846

Re: Does the Nissan Leaf Gen 1 PDM work with Zombieverter?
Post by tom91 » Thu Dec 12, 2024 7:12 pm

It works with:

Inverter + Motor - Gen1, Gen2 and Gen3

PDM - Gen1, Gen2

Thank you tom91 for clarifying that!

Today washed the car and lifted up for the first time. Under body plastic covers were broken and they carried a lot of sand. Some bolts didn't come loose and snapped. Removed the exhaust pipe I'll try to sell it, seems like its stainless steel so I don't know if anybody needs it.
In the summer I should sandblast the underfloor and stop the rust.
I'll find new used plastic covers.
Cut the clutch disk and got the center piece with spline for making the Leaf motor to subaru gearbox adapter.
Next I will try to fit the Leaf motor under the bonnet to see how to attach it to old engine attachment place.

Trying for the first time how the Leaf motor fits

Motor and gearbox shafts are touching but there's still a gap. I'll make a adapter plate from steel about 14mm thickness. Motor position in this car is strange it's not horisontal and a lot of room is wasted under the motor but what to do, under there is very bad place for anything. Our roads in winter time are salty muddy and sandy. I'm thinking maybe adding somekind of frame and adding a few Leaf original motor mounts in addition to subaru original mounts. Then it would be easier to attach all the other parts like AC compressor, Leaf HV junction block, inverter, on board charger and so on.

Sweet build! I'll be following along since I'm also considering converting my '06 Outback. It sounds like you're planning on packaging the battery under the hood which makes sense, I've been struggling with figuring out how to package the modules in my build. Do you have any plans for active battery heating to allow charging below ambient? I saw you mentioned webasto, are you planning on using one of their coolant heaters like this? https://www.heatso.com/webasto-thermo-t ... truck-kit/

Good luck with your build!

maland2 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 18, 2025 5:08 pm Sweet build! I'll be following along since I'm also considering converting my '06 Outback. It sounds like you're planning on packaging the battery under the hood which makes sense, I've been struggling with figuring out how to package the modules in my build. Do you have any plans for active battery heating to allow charging below ambient? I saw you mentioned webasto, are you planning on using one of their coolant heaters like this? https://www.heatso.com/webasto-thermo-t ... truck-kit/

Good luck with your build!

Thanks, I don't think I can fit the battery under the hood. At first I plan to use small cheap hybrid battery like bmw hybrid 10kWh and fit it in the boot. This is for getting the car just to drive and get it registered. Then I'll see what's available at the time and see what can be done.
Under the bonnet will be: motor, inverter, electic and fuel heater, onboard charger, AC compressor, high voltage junction block, vacuum pump.
I hope I don't need to heat the battery it heats when charging at night and also when driving. When that's not enough then I'll deal with it, maybe some electric floor heater cable or leaf battery heater elements?
Yes webasto or eberspaecher, I am using them in my daily electric cars (i-MiEV and Leaf) fuel heater at cold wintertime. One has diesel heater other has gas heater and I like gas heater, I don't like diesel heater smell and oily hands when adding fuel.
I'll add nissan leaf original electric coolant heater also for preheating when car is plugged in or the wheather is not so cold or at shorter trips. Would like to control it with OVMS app.

This winter I drove a few times 2006 Outback it was automatic and 2.0 petrol engine, it was amazing in the snow. But I didn't like the visits to gas station. Very expensive to drive 10 litres per 100 km. But difference with my car is that it didn't have electric power steering rack.
Does your car have electric power steering? My diesel had.

I have adapter plates for this, but if you want do them your self have the files posted

Bratitude wrote: ↑Fri Apr 18, 2025 12:35 am I have adapter plates for this, but if you want do them your self have the files posted

Thanks I'll memorize your offer If I cannot make those plates myself. I have CNC plasma table at work. I am not sure if plasma is good enough accuracy for this kind of work but I'd give it a try. I use half of the leaf reducer case and also the reducer small input shaft with its splines.

Leaf stack was in my original plans (still haven't done anything) but now I am looking at using the Crosstrek plug in hybrid transmission.

I am still thinking of using Leaf batteries due to the variety of module sizes. Some under the bonnet, some in the fuel tank space and some in the spare wheel well.

Now that the schoolyear is ending I have done a few things on my Subaru.
My colleague changed rear boot lid, with students, old one was veru rusty, fortunately I got other one just the same color and rust free!

Cut off the differential part from the leaf reducer case half.

When testfitting it I found out that I have to rotate the motor 90 degrees.


Seems to be fine, cooling pipes seems to be ok and even the AC compressor should go onto the original mounts on the motor.
at the moment I am testfitting the motor these thin plates are only for testing that I cut with CNC plasmacutter. CAD drawings were made with my students with whose help we prepared the g-code files for plasmacutting with Swift Cut plasmatable.

view from bottom
I think I need to make rear support also for the motor but there's not a strong place to attach it.

Now need to work on the spline shaft coupler things

I made the coupler from Leaf reducer part where I had to cut input shaft shorter and turn a space for subaru clutch disk center piece

welded them together


thats how it looks on the subaru gearbox

I made a lasercut cardboard template to see if measurements are ok.

plasmacut the spacer out of 10mm steel

and that's how it looks

Adapter plate and coupler done!
gearbox side

electric motor side
adatpter board attached to gearbox and onto the motor mounts
motor attached

I ordered VW 13kWh hybrid battery pack because it has water cooling and it should fit without modification into the trunk of my car.
According to this forum, VW battery measurements should be 950 X 600 X 200mm and the Subaru trunk width is 1100mm and lenght 960mm.
Damien has said in his videos and posts many times: "get the car running as simply as possible then there's time to improve." I believe he's right, has he done over 10 cars already? Thats why I won't waste time with battery box building because in my Mercedes project it took over a year.
For charging I think I'll use the Leaf Gen1 onboard charger and put it also in the trunk with battery to the same coolant loop and I'll add cooling radiator from ATV or motorcycle under the trunk where rear exaust muffler was.

Today I did a small motor, coupler, and gearbox test. Tried first second and reverse gear. Used 800W ebike controller and two hoverboard batteries in parallel, amazing what those cheap things can do sensorless.



At the moment it turns out that: motor works, some of the gearbox gears work.

Got Škoda Octavia IV Plug in Hybrid battery pack.

Ruudi S wrote: ↑Tue Jun 17, 2025 9:23 pm ...
I think I need to make rear support also for the motor but there's not a strong place to attach it.

if I may suggest... you can make a front cross brace as I did in Mazda and Megane and then suspend third motor mount from the top. Usually that mount simply supports the motor weight and doesn't interact with torque... so using 6mm metal screws is enough.
edit: Or if you want to be absolutely sure you can use those hex rivnut inserts. They secure against countertorque much better than round variety...
example...
viewtopic.php?p=81954#p81954

arber333 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 1:52 pm if I may suggest... you can make a front cross brace as I did in Mazda and Megane and then suspend third motor mount from the top. Usually that mount simply supports the motor weight and doesn't interact with torque... so using 6mm metal screws is enough.
edit: Or if you want to be absolutely sure you can use those hex rivnut inserts. They secure against countertorque much better than round variety...
example...
viewtopic.php?p=81954#p81954

Ofcourse you can, thank you for thinking about my project! I can see that you have very big experience with converting cars to EV-s and you are also using them.
When the car was on the car lift I found two strange hooks under the front longitudinal beams I'll construct somekind of frame under the motor to attach PDU module and coolant pumps and other parts that I cannot think of right now.

At the moment I am not worried about this motor attachment because the original diesel boxer was also attached the same way. And I have been busy with exploring and wondering Zombieverter VCU and how it works. Also tried to get working this VW PHEV battery pack contactor box or ebox thing with very little success.
tow hook?

Ruudi S wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 8:08 pm ...
When the car was on the car lift I found two strange hooks under the front longitudinal beams I'll construct somekind of frame under the motor to attach PDU module and coolant pumps and other parts that I cannot think of right now....

I think those hooks are towing arrangement because your car has alu suspension and if towing truck would hook subaru by the suspension arms it could damage them. So the hooks... if you would cut or change them you need to leave at least one of them usable or weld/bolt another towing arrangement to the front beams... some day you might neet it.

arber333 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 23, 2025 8:45 pm I think those hooks are towing arrangement because your car has alu suspension and if towing truck would hook subaru by the suspension arms it could damage them. So the hooks... if you would cut or change them you need to leave at least one of them usable or weld/bolt another towing arrangement to the front beams... some day you might neet it.

Hooks that I am talking about, are so high, when someone would use them he's gonna brake front bumper lower part for sure.
I haven't seen any alu suspension parts under this car, it's just another cheap japanese car except its all wheel drive.
It has, screw on, towing hook in the bumper.

blue markings show the hooks I am talking about

bumper tow hook attached

those are for sure towing hooks. But i am really at a loss why so high... maybe your bumper has provision for that?
I have the same set on Mazda, its just they are lower down at the wheel well.
If i used them i would also brake my bumper i think though...

The hooks are for tie downs to a flatbed or a trailer. Tow truck drivers usually use things like control arms or stick T hooks into frame holes which distorts the frame and adds a spot for rust to start. Sometimes they use halfshafts, swaybars, etc. Its nice that the engineers thought about adding a convenient and strong spot to tie down the vehicle.

Tow hooks are usually in the bumper cover but if you watch a tow truck driver load up a car with them, it becomes very clear that they are not the best solution when they keep going with the winch to pull down on the car.

The tie down hooks can also be a less than ideal spot to attach to for pulling up the flatbed if its high, kind of rips up on the bumper cover.

You very likely wont find a tow truck / flatbed driver that takes the time to not damage your car. Its about minimizing the damage and making sure it stays put.

jrbe wrote: ↑Sun Aug 24, 2025 1:07 pm The hooks are for tie downs to a flatbed or a trailer. Tow truck drivers usually use things like control arms or stick T hooks into frame holes which distorts the frame and adds a spot for rust to start. Sometimes they use halfshafts, swaybars, etc. Its nice that the engineers thought about adding a convenient and strong spot to tie down the vehicle.

Tow hooks are usually in the bumper cover but if you watch a tow truck driver load up a car with them, it becomes very clear that they are not the best solution when they keep going with the winch to pull down on the car.

The tie down hooks can also be a less than ideal spot to attach to for pulling up the flatbed if its high, kind of rips up on the bumper cover.

You very likely wont find a tow truck / flatbed driver that takes the time to not damage your car. Its about minimizing the damage and making sure it stays put.

Myself when bringing cars with trailer I use that kind of straps that are meant to attach the wheel to trailer. And some of our tow truck drivers also use these.
Bringing Legacy home, it didn't have motor and it barely moved.

One tow company took a Jaguar to dealer for motor setup after I changed the front drive unit.