Tesla Large Drive Unit Support Thread

[canadasconvert]

Thanks you very much. I have been following your build over the past year. I have an 02 Boxster 'S'. I will look at Jon Volk's tweaking as well.

[Boxster EV]

Thanks you very much. I have been following your build over the past year. I have an 02 Boxster 'S'. I will look at Jon Volk's tweaking as well.

Motor Params here:

Boxster Params.json

(1.45 KiB) Downloaded 459 times

Link to the modded firmware here. Use the .bin file.

[Jackk]

What are people using to spin up motor for bench test...I've opted for a 60v power supply...max 5 amp output. The motor wants to spin but barely moves...

What sort of current draw is there to get it to spin? Is it I don't have enough power or am I having encoder issues...

Thanks
.

[Boxster EV]

Likely to need more than 5 amps.

You can then carefully check the encoder is wired correctly.

[muehlpower]

What are people using to spin up motor for bench test...I've opted for a 60v power supply...max 5 amp output. The motor wants to spin but barely moves...

What sort of current draw is there to get it to spin? Is it I don't have enough power or am I having encoder issues...

Thanks
.

I use 4 12V car batteries in series that are fused with 30A. The limit for the drive unit is set to 20A.

[rjmcdermott81]

I used 4 car batteries as well. I also echo Boxster EVs comment. My encoder plug wasn't fully contacting and it was causing issues. You can test to see if it's getting a signal by plotting some values and turning it by hand. (sorry I don't recall the specifics but they are further up in the thread).

[Lowcoe]

Hello all. Regrettably I have a question. Test fire stalled at getting positive contactor to engage. I’ve read everything many times. Sorry for this but I’m stumped.

I have 4 tesla modules in series for 95 v. Test settings as follows from reading all posts.

Udc nom 95
Occurlim toggled from neg to pos and back
Udc min 0
Udc max 100
Throttle pot : dual channel
Idle mode off
Udc sw 85
Contractor trip : precharge on changed from default

These are listed in order they fall on page. All others are defaults.

Error message reads
[18] stop- over voltage

If nothing is obvious I probably need to pull the motor and check solder contacts as this was my first attempt at fine soldering

Thanks in advance. Apologies for my ignorance

[Boxster EV]

Hello all. Regrettably I have a question. Test fire stalled at getting positive contactor to engage. I’ve read everything many times. Sorry for this but I’m stumped.

I have 4 tesla modules in series for 95 v. Test settings as follows from reading all posts.

Udc nom 95
Occurlim toggled from neg to pos and back
Udc min 0
Udc max 100
Throttle pot : dual channel
Idle mode off
Udc sw 85
Contractor trip : precharge on changed from default

These are listed in order they fall on page. All others are defaults.

Error message reads
[18] stop- over voltage

If nothing is obvious I probably need to pull the motor and check solder contacts as this was my first attempt at fine soldering

Thanks in advance. Apologies for my ignorance

Please post a full list of your parameters.

What firmware are you using? Have you tried a known good LDU version like this (.bin):

viewtopic.php?p=26478#p26478

[Lowcoe]

Thanks for your time.

I uploaded the latest version 5.00-R-sine

I tried to open those files but no luck. Do I just upload those to the program? Again I apologize for my inexperience…

[Boxster EV]

Look at UDCSW. It’s not been lowered so main contactor won’t close. Try that first and make sure you save. After testing, put the settings back.

I think most people are still running the LDU firmware I mentioned in my last post. I’d suggest you try it as it’s known good. Click on the .bin file, save as to your PC. Then go to the inverter firmware field and upload it.

[Lowcoe]

Thanks. Never hit save before. Setting to 85 yields no change. Attempted to upload file. All of a sudden WiFi link is unstable/ unreachable. Despite using different computers and different browsers the interface shows the dreaded spinning dots in a roundabout…. Frozen….

[Boxster EV]

Thanks. Never hit save before. Setting to 85 yields no change. Attempted to upload file. All of a sudden WiFi link is unstable/ unreachable. Despite using different computers and different browsers the interface shows the dreaded spinning dots in a roundabout…. Frozen….

Need to get your PC right next to the inverter cover for stable WiFi.

[muehlpower]

Thanks. Never hit save before. Setting to 85 yields no change. Attempted to upload file. All of a sudden WiFi link is unstable/ unreachable. Despite using different computers and different browsers the interface shows the dreaded spinning dots in a roundabout…. Frozen….

have you tried these settings on your PC?

viewtopic.php?p=29453#p29453

[P.S.Mangelsdorf]

Check out this thread
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1756

[Lowcoe]

I think deleting all the files is the right tack but coding ain’t my thing. It says curl … not sure how to execute that..

[Isaac96]

Are you on windows? Open up a command prompt (windows search bar) then paste the command in there.

[Lowcoe]

I got to the “curl help” page but delete doesn’t seem to be an option.

[Isaac96]

Curl just sends messages or files to a specified URL. In this case, it's sending "DELETE" to the 192.168.4.1 page.

[johu]

If you're on windows you need to download the curl executable here: https://curl.se/windows/

[Clanarn]

Hi,

I ran into some problems with the LDU after a 2mins test driving on the street. I think we did 10kmh maximum. It has worked flawlessly on the bench with 400v. The cooling wasn't working during test drive.

After the test drive car was powered off. 1min after we turned it on again but this time the following accured and has been happening ever since: Press start, main contactor closes for 1 sec, then opens again. Overcurrent is displayed as error.

50% of the time it actually goes in run but when throttle is applied it immediately blows the battery fuse. (400A fuse). Im testing with a 80v battery with a 30a fuse now. No need the blow more 400A fuses than necessary=).

Is there anything else I can do before disassembling motor from inverter to ohm-measure the igbts?

Thanks

[Clanarn]

[fredd90]

Hi,

I ran into some problems with the LDU after a 2mins test driving on the street. I think we did 10kmh maximum. It has worked flawlessly on the bench with 400v. The cooling wasn't working during test drive.

After the test drive car was powered off. 1min after we turned it on again but this time the following accured and has been happening ever since: Press start, main contactor closes for 1 sec, then opens again. Overcurrent is displayed as error.

50% of the time it actually goes in run but when throttle is applied it immediately blows the battery fuse. (400A fuse). Im testing with a 80v battery with a 30a fuse now. No need the blow more 400A fuses than necessary=).

Is there anything else I can do before disassembling motor from inverter to ohm-measure the igbts?

Thanks

Hello

Did you have readings of inverter and engine temp?

I have experimented with pwm controlled pumps, when driving at aprox 50km/h there is som heat produced, not mutch but with no active cooling you have some real problems i guess =(

Dont know what brand of fuse you using, but short therm load can be 3-5 times greater than rated current.

When you describe your problem it sounds that a row of positive or negative igbt is shorted to ground or positive.

[Boxster EV]

I’d be surprised if you damaged the inverter on such a short run with no cooling. Be interested to see what your max temp settings for motor and inverter are.

Sounds more like something is loose on the board, although that doesn’t explain why you’re blowing fuses.

[Clanarn]

Motor was 25°C and inverter 47°C. Max setting 100°C for both. I can see how a row of positive or negative igbt could be shorted to ground or positive. That would explain it. Boxster EV- I will inspect the board when dissembling it.

From reading this thread and I understand that the IGBTs can get damaged but not immidently "die" from back EMF. However, the test drive went fine and I have never had the contractors open on it when running.

Fredd90 - Ive used a ferraz fuse.

[johu]

Check IGBTs
Put multimeter in diode mode.
Positive lead on B-, negative on the 3 phases. Should read 0.3V. When seeing 0V you found a shorted phase leg to GND. Other way around to check positive.